OpAmp as Input in Power Amplifier - exploration

Also, I'd be inclined to use the NE5534, instead of the TL071. It's significantly better in most respects and costs very little.[/quote}
Peavey got away from the TL071/72/74 in about 2000 and went to the NJM4580. Slightly better on noise IMHO and perhaps more durable when roadies plug a 30 w guitar amp speaker output into the line level jack. Peavey still clamps the input to the op amp power supplies with diodes and uses a 1000 ohm 1/10 w series resistor to burn out in that case, instead of a $1.50 fuse. Evidence CS800x and CS800s products. I do not know why Peavey did not use the even cheaper NE5532, whose main datasheet disadvantage is higher supply current.
 
As you got the chance to design it by yourself, you should let the opamp work in class A (single ended) by any chance. A good looking symmetry circuit might not suggest good performance.
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Peavey got away from the TL071/72/74 in about 2000 and went to the NJM4580. Slightly better on noise IMHO and perhaps more durable when roadies plug a 30 w guitar amp speaker output into the line level jack. Peavey still clamps the input to the op amp power supplies with diodes and uses a 1000 ohm 1/10 w series resistor to burn out in that case, instead of a $1.50 fuse. Evidence CS800x and CS800s products. I do not know why Peavey did not use the even cheaper NE5532, whose main datasheet disadvantage is higher supply current.
i have the njm4580 in a sip package i actually found two, theyre from a sony mini system i gutted.
 
copied the schematic to kicad to make making the pcb easier. EDIT: i forgot about the input capacitor
View attachment 1378326
Some thoughts of mine:

  • Replace the diode string D1 through D4 as well as RV1 and R9 by a bias spreader (Vbe multiplier) with a thermally coupled transistor.
  • TIP41 and TIP42 yet are slowish devices. They get even more slowed down when arranged as Darlingtons. It's better to replace R7, R8 by a single resistor between both driver emitters.

Best regards!
 
The TIP12x aren’t the best darlingtons for thermal compensation because of those darn base emitter resistors. You really don’t want them there in a vbe multiplier. They might be ok if the values were an order of magnitude or two higher. But 30 to 100 ohms is just plain wrong.
 
My contribution Using OPA552 OpAmp 60 volt
Using Boot Strapped Diamond Buffer so no VBE multiplier needed and auto bias.
No additional voltage drops or VBE is needed for outputs since CFP

It is close to 60 to 65 Watts into 4 Ohms. So I have included 2 output pairs for low distortion and relentless drive into 4 ohms.
For proper stability and current sharing this would be example for parallel output CFP.... YES the extra resistors are needed.
Including Degen resistors R11 and R10 and Current sharing R13,16 ,17,18.

T1 through T4 are thermally linked and T5 T6 T7 T8 ARE NOT in that Thermal Loop like Darlington. If your worried about runaway
they wont, bias is from the Diamond and increasing Degen R11 and R10 to only 2.7 or 3.3 ohms will have more control of the outside thermal behavior


DIAMOND_OPAMP_CFP_552_WhiteDragon.JPG


20 kHz Square wave 3 ohm load
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25 watts 8 ohm
THD 1 kHz = .0008 %
THD 20 kHz= .005 %

25 watts 4 ohm
THD 1 kHz = .0009 %
THD 20 kHz= .008 %

65 watts 4 ohm
THD 1 kHz = .0024 %
THD 20 kHz= .012 %
1731197219007.png

10 kHz Square Wave 5 Vp 10 Vpp 4 ohm load
Slew Rate 11.6 V/us

1731196897851.png
 
the thd dosent seem that impressive too
He is using low Ft transistors MJE2955/3055 in post #125

That is almost Full Power at 10 kHz not 1 kHz
so THD .01 % is actually rather dam good.

You dont know what your looking at
THD at 1 kHz would be likely .006 %

With basic transistors and TL072 opamp your amp wont do more than .1% at 10 kHz full clean power

He is showing high frequency at high power.
Little different ball game than THD1 at 1 watt ratings
 
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