It was fun to read your adventures tuning up that cassette deck; brought back some good memories. I always liked that Onkyo but never got one. Over the years, I've had a HK CD-301 but I really wanted 3 heads. I dumped it and got an Aiwa F-770 and much later, a Sony TCK-611S.
Where do you get "known" good belts these days? My F-770 is in need ..., I really should pull it out of storage and play with it ...
Where do you get "known" good belts these days? My F-770 is in need ..., I really should pull it out of storage and play with it ...
Hi,
Your F-770 is a very good deck. If you can measure or gather info about the belt sizes you need, these guys are a good source: https://www.dynamtechgroup.com/tape-reel-belts.php
Your F-770 is a very good deck. If you can measure or gather info about the belt sizes you need, these guys are a good source: https://www.dynamtechgroup.com/tape-reel-belts.php
The Maxim MAX4066 quad-switch CMOS IC survived three years of abuse in the Onkyo. 17V absolute max spec chip and had 16.75V across it (Q201 in post#1's schematic). Yesterday something pulled two DC power lines down (+5V -12V) blanking the display and cutting off sound output. I removed and measured the 7805 and 7912 regulators (still good). Then I suspected the CMOS switch because I knew I was running it precariously. It was in a socket so I quickly replaced it with a Toshiba TC4066BP 20V absolute max, 0.03% THD chip. Everything came back to normal.
Lesson is don't run a MAX4066 on more than 16V DC between pins 7 & 14 for real long term reliability. 15V is even safer.
Lesson is don't run a MAX4066 on more than 16V DC between pins 7 & 14 for real long term reliability. 15V is even safer.
Hi, long shot maybe ... but I just finished repairing my TA-2600. Replaced the 2 belts. As of my usual habit .. I have 2 spare parts left over 😎... They must be from somewhere around/on the tape desk mechanism. I consulted the exploded views but can't seem to locate them. Anyone has an idea ? Btw .. The deck is working perfectly without them !
Thanks for the suggestion. That was my initial thought as well but the door mechanism works perfectly and I also don't see those parts in the exploded view drawing.
That's a nice 3-head Onkyo deck you got. Don't know what to think about the mysterious leftover parts. I hope the spring doesn't belong to a head's mounting screw.
Your TA-2600 is family to my TA-2570 (TA-2800) but simpler i.e. no test oscillator but no CMOS switch chip either, lower output level but less associated circuitry (volume pot, wires, op-amp etc.). Sometimes simpler is better sound-wise. Possibly having bit lower spec heads also, not sure. This is the bias knob tapes map from its instruction manual.
Your TA-2600 is family to my TA-2570 (TA-2800) but simpler i.e. no test oscillator but no CMOS switch chip either, lower output level but less associated circuitry (volume pot, wires, op-amp etc.). Sometimes simpler is better sound-wise. Possibly having bit lower spec heads also, not sure. This is the bias knob tapes map from its instruction manual.
Putting an OPA1656 into a cassette deck is a little like putting an F1 engine into a Yugo 🙂 But why not. It's all good fun.
I wish I had time to service my decks. A friend of mine got me a Nak CR-7 in Japan that was already serviced. It runs 0.023 RMS and has heads that look like new. I know that I could spend many hours restoring my Sony and Technics decks, but the truth is that they will never beat the Nak. But that's no reason not to restore them, you've got to have hobbies. But you need time for hobbies...especially tape-based hobbies.
I wish I had time to service my decks. A friend of mine got me a Nak CR-7 in Japan that was already serviced. It runs 0.023 RMS and has heads that look like new. I know that I could spend many hours restoring my Sony and Technics decks, but the truth is that they will never beat the Nak. But that's no reason not to restore them, you've got to have hobbies. But you need time for hobbies...especially tape-based hobbies.
It seems to be the shaft of the eject botton, A807, in the picture.
BTW, Is there a store with reasonably priced setup cassettes (400Hz, 3kHz, 1.2kHz etc) ?
They ones I've found cost quite a bit. The decks also went over the roof, I remember Dragons costed below 1K some years back, now 3K is normal.
BTW, Is there a store with reasonably priced setup cassettes (400Hz, 3kHz, 1.2kHz etc) ?
They ones I've found cost quite a bit. The decks also went over the roof, I remember Dragons costed below 1K some years back, now 3K is normal.
Attachments
Unless you want to spend crazy money, get Hans Peter Roth's test tapes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176013927759?_skw=test+cassette+set&itmmeta=01JP6C2YMPWCE0894SS6QME5CF&hash=item28fb3f654f:g:NTEAAOSwkSBno4t1&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e9hwU8keBSqINM48y5bSHqV36aPF1TEWj58SbkQDGUZcEK36ICHkliXzzxdss8RtzcwoL1QMHbpAPAhwiHU75A9LBw5BYYis52vKOCbTocjuiCiD65XN4Pm5tZGY1OX2rX3YO9HVLy8jmLi4u0aazI8ltNjZB9rS6BYo+fmO1MbvNR7wcPu0dFQfR24boVl5NvH+v26DCw70fNLKy+AFR79YGCr6DiImPDOtFmuKnwyRteBoeeMrgysK6ANUAHPB7QrRvjuSIzNCgRE8mqKsH2yrhP7ry3NrzWaIKmBzLiiA==|tkp:Bk9SR8Dqi8yxZQ]LINK
He makes them with a full-track head on an open reel deck. AVOID test tapes made on cassette machines (even a Nak).
I would also avoid buying a Dragon, unless you've spent a lot of time ascertaining the head condition. Its head is unique and there are no other machines that you can take one off... Because it has auto-reverse, people often enjoy their Dragons... The top guy in NL who serviced (past tense) has stopped taking Dragons on because he had enough of upsetting clients that had worn heads. Naka heads tend to be the hardest wearing of any machine, but the Dragon seems to have a reputation for worn heads. A lot of people are of an age where they don't hear 10K+ is missing.. But the engineer sees it!
NB - No one makes decent shells anymore. If you want the HPR tapes to work well, you need to find donor shells to put them in. Apparently TDK D shells are good. MAX-G and MA-R are the best, but expensive to find. You will need to do this for the azimuth tape, as it's near-useless in the original shell. This is no fault of HPR. He is doing a great job.
He makes them with a full-track head on an open reel deck. AVOID test tapes made on cassette machines (even a Nak).
I would also avoid buying a Dragon, unless you've spent a lot of time ascertaining the head condition. Its head is unique and there are no other machines that you can take one off... Because it has auto-reverse, people often enjoy their Dragons... The top guy in NL who serviced (past tense) has stopped taking Dragons on because he had enough of upsetting clients that had worn heads. Naka heads tend to be the hardest wearing of any machine, but the Dragon seems to have a reputation for worn heads. A lot of people are of an age where they don't hear 10K+ is missing.. But the engineer sees it!
NB - No one makes decent shells anymore. If you want the HPR tapes to work well, you need to find donor shells to put them in. Apparently TDK D shells are good. MAX-G and MA-R are the best, but expensive to find. You will need to do this for the azimuth tape, as it's near-useless in the original shell. This is no fault of HPR. He is doing a great job.
What does the record amp duty.
Playback looks very good as is.
I replaced a single transistor record amp with an op amp which took 0db performance to 15khz on chrome tape.
Record amp does reverse NAB signal to 10v p-p.
Playback looks very good as is.
I replaced a single transistor record amp with an op amp which took 0db performance to 15khz on chrome tape.
Record amp does reverse NAB signal to 10v p-p.
Hi, you refer to the service manual you found inI got this one from eBay for 170 Euro incl. post about two years ago. I have done some work on it since then. Thought to report here for cassette deck lovers in case someone else has this model and looks for information.
My findings:
The capstan belt it came with was random and narrow, off-riding the pulley. Back tension belt was missing. Found a melted blob behind a flywheel. Should have been its remains. 251mm L (9.9") or 80mm Diam. capstan motor belt of 5-6mm width seems right. PRB FRW9.7 246mm worked bit better than FRW9.6 244mm. Back tension belt is 25mm Diam. square section, about 1mm wide.
After cleaning, lubing, new left pinch roller standard practices, mechanical alignment was done with M300 gauge, Sony Mirror Cassette, TEAC Torque cassette.
Measured bias freq ~110kHz
Input to output loop distortion (source) at +5dB red level (2V RMS) with original Q221 2SD655F mute transistors of 5V VEBO was 0.15%. I replaced them with 2SD1302S 12V VEBO and got 0.12%
REC/PB ref match at REC CAL level panel pots +0.6dB for RTM FOX C60 Type1. Chosen because new production with a spec sheet.
REC CAL level panel pots range +5/-3dB
Positive notches +1dB each
Negative first two notches -1dB next two -0.5dB last one ineffective
The REC/PB heads combo should be Canon M&X Permalloy
Clutch and reel motors still alright
Capstan motor gave acceptable but higher than spec W&F. Replaced with Dual Speed externally adjustable Matsushita motor but the driver circuitry didn't like it, there was a slow oscillation on the 12V motor line in sync with a high W&F sine wave like pattern. Still very good speed stability. A single speed dubious looking Mabuchi EG-530AD-2B came handy resulting to 0.035% WRMS W&F (A.N.T. speed tape). Onkyo service manual Spec is 0.04% WRMS.
Finally found an MMI-6S series Matsushita NOS motor to replace the new production possibly fake Mabuchi. Which was fine for W&F but running rather hot, also showing bit much of a speed drift cycle over time. The NOS one weighs heavier, runs cooler, fixing the pitch at its back trim is far better predictable. Stays there.
Remote control Onkyo RC-125T was missing. I found one later. A similar Onkyo deck remote was also tried but incompatible.
Test Tapes used:
ABEX, Sony, TEAC, A.N.T. Audio, Hanspeter Roth, FixYourAudio
All service manual adjustment steps successful (manual found in hi-fi engine)
Bias & level internal oscillator test signal adjusted. Tape bias trim by Auto Accubias (micro controller).
I desoldered all NJM4558 & BA15218 from audio signal positions and installed sockets.
Mod op-amps current config:
Q215 NJM5532D Line Amp*
Q217 NE5532 Out Buffer
Q301 uPC4570 HP Amp
Q151 NE5532 In Buffer
Q401 uPC4570 Rec Amp
Q403 BA15218 Rec Head drive Amp
Q201 TC4066BP CMOS switch replaced with MAXIM MAX4066A
*The high slew rate ADA4625-2 tested stable for Q215 as well
Red dots on the annotated schematic are signal path caps replaced with Nichicon FG or ELNA Silmic II and a WIMA. To refresh them. All removed Nichicon VX(M) caps proved good on the LCR though. Factory differences found in the deck vs the schematic like extra coupling cap after the input buffer and a jumper instead of coupling cap to the headphone output also noted. The DIN input is useless nowadays. Its socket's push contacts changing between DIN/RCA routes I bypassed.
Bulb behind cassette came burned out. Replaced with a white LED and limiting resistor. Running it at 20mA is not subtle but I can see the remaining tape run and heads dirt state better in the dark.
Sine sweeps not valid below 100 Hz due to new sound card without correction file yet. Cross-checked ok in the bass with older card periodic pink noise in REW & ARTA. Sweep levels are actual to 0dB front panel meters reference (its a 200nWB/m ANSI deck). FFT is showing the source loop at Dolby level 1.1V RMS out.
Sound is very good. Was good originally (a well regarded deck in its time) but took a substantial lift after the restoration and mods.
That one is present and working .. So it must be still something else but something that doesn't seem to prevent the unit from working !It seems to be the shaft of the eject botton, A807, in the picture.
BTW, Is there a store with reasonably priced setup cassettes (400Hz, 3kHz, 1.2kHz etc) ?
They ones I've found cost quite a bit. The decks also went over the roof, I remember Dragons costed below 1K some years back, now 3K is normal.
There's a schematic section of the TA-2570 (TA-2800) with red dot noted parts that I replaced in page one. The text refers to those part numbers.Hi, you refer to the service manual you found in
Maybe but doubtful .. I have a history of "extra" parts after I repair something. The plastic thing probably is an extra support for the frame with the motors. Just can't find it's location in the exploded view. The spring ? No clue ! Everyting works just fine ... and again, can't locate a spring like that in the exploded view.
Q401 Q403 op-amps are the record amp and record head driver in the the TA-2570What does the record amp duty.
If it was a PCB snap in support, those are usually white on the other hand... Anyway... keep the mysterious parts in case they ever become clarified. Afterall how do you like the deck? Does it replay and record well?Maybe but doubtful .. I have a history of "extra" parts after I repair something. The plastic thing probably is an extra support for the frame with the motors. Just can't find it's location in the exploded view. The spring ? No clue ! Everyting works just fine ... and again, can't locate a spring like that in the exploded view.
If you get really stuck and can't find the part in the SM, it could be worth looking at SMs for other decks that have the same mechanism. Sony, Technics and Nak (in the early days - they moved over to Sankyo later on) made their own mechanisms, but the other OEMs typically sourced their mechanisms from either Alps or Sankyo. Onkyo used Sankyo in their earlier decks and I suspect that's what is used in this one. OEMs vary a lot in terms of SM quality... Sony made exceptionally good SMs, but others could be lacking.
edit - a little background on mechanisms: https://audiochrome.blogspot.com/2022/02/restoring-and-modifying-onkyo-ta-2060.html
edit - a little background on mechanisms: https://audiochrome.blogspot.com/2022/02/restoring-and-modifying-onkyo-ta-2060.html
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