That looks sweet Wim ! 🙂
Have you tried the relvol yet??
I would like to know how well it works 🙂
/Z
Have you tried the relvol yet??
I would like to know how well it works 🙂
/Z
Looks really nice Wim!!
The heatsinks look like a good idea - my 9610's are really quite hot - the 36degC ambient temps probably aren't helping much
Cobra2, Zei
I definitely think bad caps are the main problem. The bad channel is stable now after 6 hours running, so the at least one output cap was the primary cause. I don't have much confidence in the remaining MKT1813's. I might try to find some panasonic FC's to put in until the bg's arrive.
I guess when I have some decent caps installed I might be in better position to judge noise levels.
Zei your shoebox install looks positively high end compared to my scattered around on a sheet of mdf setup :0 I'll take some pics when things look a bit more organised.
All I can say is : at least it wasn't cooked mosfets!!
cheers
Paul
The heatsinks look like a good idea - my 9610's are really quite hot - the 36degC ambient temps probably aren't helping much

Cobra2, Zei
I definitely think bad caps are the main problem. The bad channel is stable now after 6 hours running, so the at least one output cap was the primary cause. I don't have much confidence in the remaining MKT1813's. I might try to find some panasonic FC's to put in until the bg's arrive.
I guess when I have some decent caps installed I might be in better position to judge noise levels.
Zei your shoebox install looks positively high end compared to my scattered around on a sheet of mdf setup :0 I'll take some pics when things look a bit more organised.
All I can say is : at least it wasn't cooked mosfets!!
cheers
Paul
I only did the tests witch are discribed in the manual, stand alone, witout connection wit other boards. These tests were oke.
I have to wait for my LCD display for further testing.
I have to wait for my LCD display for further testing.
😀 😀Zei your shoebox install looks positively high end compared to my scattered around on a sheet of mdf setup :0 I'll take some pics when things look a bit more organised.
I,m going to take the time asap to give my Alpeh a better looking home..
I,m just very curious on those relvolumes...........
maybe i just leave some space in the chassi for some volume "upgrades"
How are you guys switching inputs? with buttons or a switch?
How any of you thought about remote controlled options?
/Z
Along with the RelVol3 I've ordered Input2 and Control2 boards from dantimax. From Wim's pix it looks like he has gone the same route. Mine haven't arrived yet so I can't tell much more than replay the hype on the dantimax site 😉
You can see the Input2 clearly in Wim's pics - this is a relay select input board, with on board mute relays and board mounted XLR's/RCA.
I'm planning on rotary encoders for input select and volume... The control2 board just needs an IR receiver (which is integrated with the C2Panel options) to allow full remote control. 😎 😎
cheers
Paul
You can see the Input2 clearly in Wim's pics - this is a relay select input board, with on board mute relays and board mounted XLR's/RCA.
I'm planning on rotary encoders for input select and volume... The control2 board just needs an IR receiver (which is integrated with the C2Panel options) to allow full remote control. 😎 😎
cheers
Paul
Volume and switching between inputs goes with encoders in my situation. So there are no switches on the front, only 2 encoders (Connected to the Contro2 board). Thats all.
The LCD display gives information about theactual channel and the volume level.
I am not going for the IR remote, so i do not even connect the little IR detector board. I leave it out.
The LCD display gives information about theactual channel and the volume level.
I am not going for the IR remote, so i do not even connect the little IR detector board. I leave it out.
Hi Guys!
Is the apox or dantimax qeuit, you don't hear any switching noise?
I hear some on my stepped attenuator stepping up the volume, not directly but changing the clicks, it gives some pops, so I,m thinking of getting also a APOX or dantimax.
I will take a look at your place Marcel, when I get my xonoparts and you get my xono boards. And Wim you're p1.7 looks good! Mojo with getting it together. I also did only the heatsinks on the 9610's, they did get really hot. The 610's didn't. I hope its enough. GRTZ Teake
Is the apox or dantimax qeuit, you don't hear any switching noise?
I hear some on my stepped attenuator stepping up the volume, not directly but changing the clicks, it gives some pops, so I,m thinking of getting also a APOX or dantimax.
I will take a look at your place Marcel, when I get my xonoparts and you get my xono boards. And Wim you're p1.7 looks good! Mojo with getting it together. I also did only the heatsinks on the 9610's, they did get really hot. The 610's didn't. I hope its enough. GRTZ Teake
intense-tavda, i am afraid i can not tell you if there is any switching noise with the RelVol3. I did not so far that i can play music with it.
As soon as i fired the whole stuff on, i will tell you.
As soon as i fired the whole stuff on, i will tell you.
Bourns backwards?
I have what looks like an early version of Veteran's boards (with the mounting holes on the input side very close to the 1000uF caps) and I wasn't getting any change in gain by adjusting the 2k pot.
What I found was that the pot - P1 (Bourns 3296 2K multi-turn - 3296W-202LF-ND digikey #) needed to be installed backwards compared to the trimmer screw location on the board
The original way I installed it, it was shorting out the pins and provided no resistance - I've reinstalled it and confirm the resistance is adjustable now on the solder tabs, but I haven't had a chance to listen to it yet since taking it apart.
Just thought I would share that if anyone is having no effect from their trimmers as well.
I have what looks like an early version of Veteran's boards (with the mounting holes on the input side very close to the 1000uF caps) and I wasn't getting any change in gain by adjusting the 2k pot.
What I found was that the pot - P1 (Bourns 3296 2K multi-turn - 3296W-202LF-ND digikey #) needed to be installed backwards compared to the trimmer screw location on the board
The original way I installed it, it was shorting out the pins and provided no resistance - I've reinstalled it and confirm the resistance is adjustable now on the solder tabs, but I haven't had a chance to listen to it yet since taking it apart.
Just thought I would share that if anyone is having no effect from their trimmers as well.
I have another set of boards of the P1.7, with all components on it, and i want to adjst the volume with a 4-deck pot or something like that.
I only do not have sourses were to buy these things for a reasonable price.
Do anyone know were to buy 4-deks pots or another good solution for XLR volume regulating?
I only do not have sourses were to buy these things for a reasonable price.
Do anyone know were to buy 4-deks pots or another good solution for XLR volume regulating?
Teake
When I last looked at the APOX site it seemed like they had stopped producing any diy audio gear. You might want to double check before trying to decide between the two 😉
cheers
Paul
When I last looked at the APOX site it seemed like they had stopped producing any diy audio gear. You might want to double check before trying to decide between the two 😉
cheers
Paul
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