Old Soul

Oh snap, plenty to come! Will this be a summer amp as well?

Google:
 

Attachments

  • 1068035292_IlPenitentepcbtoprender.png.5f110ea44248297ae70e0843d0e2cc4d.png
    1068035292_IlPenitentepcbtoprender.png.5f110ea44248297ae70e0843d0e2cc4d.png
    175.2 KB · Views: 102
Member
Joined 2017
Paid Member
Twitchie, since you kissed me awake, here's what my old fingers came up with that good old Soul...

Just by looking at it it seems clear to me that I must improve the spacing—turn the Cap-Bank 90° (space is just snuggly ok), shorten bottom-plate and rewire the beast. (Ah, and I intend to insert a sort of handle to the psi, to be able to one-handedly lift it out of the chassis)

Since I must remove the boards to replace a faulty part, I will take the opportunity and turn the Beguns 180° (and add the forgotten heatshrink-tubes), so that the wires are parallel from board to beast... :Popworm:


@ZenMod: 🚙 :rofl:
 

Attachments

  • Frontplate.jpg
    Frontplate.jpg
    383 KB · Views: 78
  • BottomView.jpg
    BottomView.jpg
    556 KB · Views: 80
  • NoSpacetohide.jpg
    NoSpacetohide.jpg
    359.4 KB · Views: 84
  • Topview.JPG
    Topview.JPG
    577.4 KB · Views: 97
  • Noplacetohide2.jpg
    Noplacetohide2.jpg
    569.9 KB · Views: 85
  • BegunReversed.jpg
    BegunReversed.jpg
    353.9 KB · Views: 78
Member
Joined 2017
Paid Member
Just a word of caution:
the second-greenhornyest greenhorn or so!
Ok, so after what, 6 weeks, I got back in screw(-around)-mode, and dismantled my Old Soul to get the weaknesses and mistakes out.
Guess what: The cap-bank was still under load, causing a frightening zap-sparkle! Aah, I sometimes hate to be such a ... greenhorn.

Q 1: do the caps suffer when they're not getting drained for so long? (not speaking of shorting them, mind you)
Q2: Since they're off-board and not connected to anything anymore, how should I drain them?
 
Official Court Jester
Joined 2003
Paid Member
they are happy being full, waiting to zapp! whatever comes first

use 1K small resistor for few secs of draining, then use 10-20-50R resistor, whatever you have handy

if you go that way, in two steps , no need to use fat ones - small 0207 are good enough

hope you didn't sparkle on channel boards .......
 
Member
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Haven't had much time to play lately but getting another look at Old Soul - I didn't order parts kit so I ordered my own parts. Does the grade for the optocoupler OK101 and OK102 (PC817C) make a difference? I notice now there are B, C and D grades/bins with different transfer ratio (Max) as well as forward DC current differences (10mA for B, 50mA for C&D). I checked my DK order and I have B&D grade parts, no C. On the channel I have working, it's fine at 1W but just past 2W, it starts to distort rapidly. Please note this is the working channel. I haven't checked the channel that doesn't bias yet.