Old School Orion 2350GX Anyone have tech info?

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These op-amps have (Malaysia C4570C 8847R) stamped on them. I have found several online but there are a lot of different manufactures. Who should I source them from?_

And If this is the fix(fingers crossed). What else can I do internally while its appart to improve this amplifier?_ I'm not looking for more power, I'm talking about "Reliability Upgrades"

It may take a few days to get the parts. I will replace and let you know. Thank you so much for your help.
 

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I didn't see the earlier post.

The originals seem to be in short supply. The TL082s will work and are typically not finicky. Others may try to talk you into some 'high-performance' op-amps but those can cause all sorts of problems without modifying the circuit.

I'd leave the amp as-is. If you use proper fusing (30 amps per power wire), if something goes wrong, the fuse should limit the damage.
 
When you say "high-performance op-amps can cause all sorts of problems without modifying the circuit" does that apply to this one?


C4570C Ultra-Low Noise, Wideband Dual Op Amp

$0.35

C4570C
The C4570C is an ultra low-noise, wideband high slew-rate, dual operational amplifier.
The C4570C is an excellent choice for pre-amplifiers and active filters in audio, instrumentation, and communication circuits.
MFG: NEC
Info Here: C4570C Datasheet catalog


Add to Cart:


  • Model: 180-1023
  • Shipping Weight: 0.001lbs
  • 2405 Units in Stock
 
You found the original part so your doing Ok.

Perry was referring to Burr-Brown, and AD , and National Semi, Super Op-amps. They are as their name implies Super op-amps and they can cause all sorts of issues when being used in a lessor design due to their very wide bandwidth and gain characteristics. As I said you have found the original parts so your doing AOK...🙂
 
I found one here locally but there is a slight difference. The original is marked Pic#1(NMalaysia C4570C 8847R) The one available is Pic#2(NMalaysia C4579C 8812R) I don't know what the last number indicates. Does anyone know if this one will be ok?
 

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Thanks, Installing now. I Will not have my car here today to test with audio signal. I can test with battery and headlight. What should I be looking for on pins 1,2, and 3 with to imputs connected?_ The last test showed zero on all 3 pins leading to the op-amp replacement. I'll post results later today.
 
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I have sound!!!! I replaced the op-amp closest to the RCA's and with 1v supplied through the RCA's I get 1v on Pin#1 on both op-amps. On Pin#7 I get .3 on both op-amps. When subs are hooked up the left rca sounds great the right channel is about 1/3rd the volume. So there is an improvement (Sound)Thank you,Thank you,Thank you.
Does the .3v on pin7 of both boards have anything to do with me getting 1/3 the sound out of the previously dead channel that is now working?_
 
Compare the signal level on both channels at each following point:

RCA input where it's soldered to the board

Back of gain pot

Each leg of the cap near the gain pot

Pins 3 and 5 of the op-amp closest to the RCA jacks.

You don't need to post the voltage for each, just compare and post where the signal varies significantly.
 
Ok, This time I used a Fluke multimeter. With the left RCA supplied with 1v I measure 1v on pins 5&7. With the right RCA supplied with 1v, I get zero on 5&7 of the op-amp closest to the RCA's. Sorry, earlier test had both rca's connected at once, this time I did it one at a time. How is it that I get zero but still have some sound?
 
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