Ah yes, I've never handled 1" thick hardboard but even 9mm is noticeably tougher when compared to the same thickness of mdf. Also the coloured mdf with water resistant additive takes some cutting too but machines really well, especially when routed.
Thanks and I hope so.
It's great to have you back around again Shin. Your actually the reason why I got into DIY in the first place, your a true artist.
I wish I lived in the UK as I would buy a pair of your speakers in a heartbeat.
Good luck on your business venture, I wish you tremendous success.
I wish I lived in the UK as I would buy a pair of your speakers in a heartbeat.
Good luck on your business venture, I wish you tremendous success.
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I really do hope it works out too. If it doesn't I'll have some awesome new toys 😀
I think I'm going to avoid the cnc machine for now. The desktop one's don't look to be that useful in the long run with small bed sizes. I'd like a 4ft x 4ft bed ideally but these start around £7k and that's just too much. The thought of a used machine doesn't appeal either so I'm going to have to do this the old fashioned way - jigs and a plunge router.
This is the problem I have:
What I'd like to do is create a jig. I'd then cut the piece using the jig and a guide bush. Problem is how do I go about creating the jig? I've looked around for a good tutorial about this but nothing particularly useful has popped up yet.
This is the problem I have:
What I'd like to do is create a jig. I'd then cut the piece using the jig and a guide bush. Problem is how do I go about creating the jig? I've looked around for a good tutorial about this but nothing particularly useful has popped up yet.
Attachments
Nice toys Ant!
I'd get it laser, (or water jet) cut from hard plastic or ali, like a big postform jig for worktops. The cost should be reasonable once amortised over several boxes, and you can do all the drawing yourself to make sure it's exactly what you need.
I'd get it laser, (or water jet) cut from hard plastic or ali, like a big postform jig for worktops. The cost should be reasonable once amortised over several boxes, and you can do all the drawing yourself to make sure it's exactly what you need.
A jig that does the perimeter rebate first.
Then a jig that locks into that rebate with the gaps set up to route out the grooves.
The first jig only needs to route out two adjacent sides of the rebate to allow the second jig to lock in exactly.
Then a jig that locks into that rebate with the gaps set up to route out the grooves.
The first jig only needs to route out two adjacent sides of the rebate to allow the second jig to lock in exactly.
This is the problem I have:
Being a simple 2 axis job, surely it wouldn't cost too much to outsource?
Like Andrew said, use 2 jigs.
Jig 1 makes the perimeter dadoes.
Jig 2 locks into place, using wood strips that fit into the dadoes and makes all the inner grooves as well as allowing for the final outer perimeter through cut.
On making a jig--make a template to route channels and use it to make your template, which becomes your jig.
You can use rub collars or an upper-bearing bit to follow the channels.
On making a simple channel for template-making--pictures speak better than I do.
Set your fence, lower your blade, position your workpiece, power on the saw, raise the spinning blade into the wood and make a stopped through-cut.
Power off, lower the blade, reposition the fence for a parallel cut for the desired channel width and make a parallel cut.
Knock out the center and you have a channel-template that you can use for making a jig.
Top-Bearing bit.
Jig. I hope this helps.
Jig 1 makes the perimeter dadoes.
Jig 2 locks into place, using wood strips that fit into the dadoes and makes all the inner grooves as well as allowing for the final outer perimeter through cut.
On making a jig--make a template to route channels and use it to make your template, which becomes your jig.
You can use rub collars or an upper-bearing bit to follow the channels.
On making a simple channel for template-making--pictures speak better than I do.
Set your fence, lower your blade, position your workpiece, power on the saw, raise the spinning blade into the wood and make a stopped through-cut.
Power off, lower the blade, reposition the fence for a parallel cut for the desired channel width and make a parallel cut.
Knock out the center and you have a channel-template that you can use for making a jig.
Top-Bearing bit.
Jig. I hope this helps.
This is the problem I have:
You cut out two templates the size of each raised portion less the bushing allowance. You also cut two pieces to fit between the templates. Make two sets of each.
Also make two thin panels that will fit over the entire finished side and have at two edges strips to hold the panel in position. Then layout the templates and filler strips over one panel. Remove the filler strips and mark where you need to cut out for the router still leaving enough wood to hold the templates securely. These cutouts can be oversize as the templates will guide the router. You will not be able to hold the templates and do all of the routing with a single panel. So try to layout thing so one does X axis while the other does Y. It is handy in the second template to have strips tha engage the routed areas from the first template.
The other method is a bit sneakier. Make one thin panel, layout the templates and then drill four holes through the template and panel. Now place dowel pins in the template holes so they will fit snugly into the thin panel. Now you have two choices. Use the thin panel to drill shallow holes on the workpiece, place the templates in the holes and route away. The second is to make another two thin panels and clamp one to the work piece. You then cut through both pieces. If you do it it right you end up with similar set to the first method, just with more precise guides.
If you use the second method drill the holes with a drill press for maximum accuracy. Also if you use an oversize router guide collar you can then use the thin panels as you router guides!
You want to end up with two sets of final templates.
You dry assemble a set of templates and filler strips.
Wow guys, thank you very much. Awesome info.
Once I get some time I'll read through and digest then come back with questions 😉
Once I get some time I'll read through and digest then come back with questions 😉
I think I'm going to avoid the cnc machine for now. The desktop one's don't look to be that useful in the long run with small bed sizes. I'd like a 4ft x 4ft bed ideally but these start around £7k and that's just too much. The thought of a used machine doesn't appeal either so I'm going to have to do this the old fashioned way - jigs and a plunge router.
This is the problem I have:
What I'd like to do is create a jig. I'd then cut the piece using the jig and a guide bush. Problem is how do I go about creating the jig? I've looked around for a good tutorial about this but nothing particularly useful has popped up yet.
Even with several jigs, that's a LOT of work. 🙁
I'd start looking at CNC machines again, though less complex.
I don't know how reputable this company is (..one that I posted but then deleted earlier), but it *might* be useful (..or it could be a sham, don't know). 😱
DigiRout low cost CNC Router
It certainly is the right size, can be ordered pre-assembled.. and the dollar isn't exactly strong when compared to the pound right now. It's probably worth at least some investigation.
..could be a home-based business (nothing wrong with that), and the business listing is very close to you Simon. 😉 (..in Sewickley.)
Hi Shin.
I've since upgraded to a new wide-baffle illuminator-based 4-way design - the Apollo. Details here .
You could say its a modern take on the big old school designs of 30-40 years ago.
The Audiotechnology cquenzes are great (as you know) - very neutral, and the SS revelators do everything well. The cquenze 15h does seem to loose a little detail above about 3.5kHz though, so I really wanted a true dedicated midrange (I chose the SS illuminator 12MU). However I was very attracted to the neo-motors in the illuminator designs, and as I prefer 1st order filters and my musical tastes are mainly 60-70s soul, paper works extremely well for me.
Also have a new centre channel - the Marvell .
I'm done building for the time being - no spare time, but always keep an eye open for new ideas. Its always dangerous hanging around these threads.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You've been busy. Beautiful work as always David.
Can you elaborate more on why the SS15WU sounded poor in the midrange? I was looking at your center speaker which highlighted the problem and two of the cabinet walls are very close to the the rear wave. I'll likely have the same issue too if indeed that's the problem. Did you try the driver sans box to see if the midrange improved any?
New panel saw arrives on Monday. Can't wait! 🙂
A friend pointed me at this CNC machine over on ebay:
CNC Router 4ft x 4ft Work Area 1.5kw Spindle, Software+ | eBay UK
Is this any good, I've mailed the seller for a make and model number but he has little to no information. It seems to be variation of the chinese cnc machines you see on ebay. He did kindly offer to demo the machine but I can't get up to Leeds before the auction end. Such an offer at least tells me he's honest and it does look the part but I'm more than a little wary. I'm guessing it will go for about £3k which is my limit and I can only afford to do this once. Any input greatly appreciated.
A friend pointed me at this CNC machine over on ebay:
CNC Router 4ft x 4ft Work Area 1.5kw Spindle, Software+ | eBay UK
Is this any good, I've mailed the seller for a make and model number but he has little to no information. It seems to be variation of the chinese cnc machines you see on ebay. He did kindly offer to demo the machine but I can't get up to Leeds before the auction end. Such an offer at least tells me he's honest and it does look the part but I'm more than a little wary. I'm guessing it will go for about £3k which is my limit and I can only afford to do this once. Any input greatly appreciated.
One thing I would keep in mind is that if you buy it and it doesn't turn to be what you want, you can likely put it back up on ebay and move it along to the next guy. Did you find out why he is selling it? That could be telling. Did he get a bigger table? Go out of business? As long as they used high quality stepper motors and bearings, it should be ok. Kind of hard to risk £3k sight unseen. I think I would probably pass if I were you. For that much money, I would like to see it run. You could ask him to make a video of it cutting.
Ouch, £3k + VAT for 6 baffles in Corian.
The fiancee reckons this Corian stuff must be made out of ground up moon rock for that price. 😀
Sticking with doing this myself. Everyone else is ridiculously overpriced.
The fiancee reckons this Corian stuff must be made out of ground up moon rock for that price. 😀
Sticking with doing this myself. Everyone else is ridiculously overpriced.
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Grab it quick! Put down a small deposit, verify it works, then buy it. This looks like a real one! Real machine tools are cheap right now due to the economy putting folks out of business. In a few years you will be able to sell that for more than you paid!
My press brake set be back $25,000 new, used I can sell it for $30,000 as new they are now $40,000! My engraver was the worst buy as I paid $27,000 for it and now it will only sell for around $22,000 after 12 years of use!
So if you can afford it go for it!
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