Edit: Please forgive my ignorance, but what does that mean? Is the bypass capacitor connected in parallel with the other one?
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Maybe my edit in post #2838 went unnoticed.
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I would be inclined to do same, but now interested in M25...think I will go over to that thread and ask if Toshiba outputs are good there too.I did the changes as mentioned in my previous post.
They give about 1.8A current.
I haven't gone back !!!
Russellc
And here I thought I could just be teasing until I got them both done 😉
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ok , Fugly!
🙂
there is a big chance that you'll find small pcb in that front needle instrument ... it's implemented for who knows what , and with removing it , you have access to instrument for your purposes
though , one but bigger case , filled with both channels in dual mono config , would give you better thermal/wallet ratio ...... thsi way one side of amp is going to be cold .....
🙂
there is a big chance that you'll find small pcb in that front needle instrument ... it's implemented for who knows what , and with removing it , you have access to instrument for your purposes
though , one but bigger case , filled with both channels in dual mono config , would give you better thermal/wallet ratio ...... thsi way one side of amp is going to be cold .....

Thanks 😉
I choose the chassis as the external size was just what I needed for mono blocks suiting my space. I don't mind one heatsink beeing wasted - just wanting somewhat symetry with having sinks on both sides. 🙂
I indeed found a little circuit in the meter case, didn't waste any time finding out what it actually did and removed it. I attached a little driver board for the VU adjusting it to show me 1W into 8ohm when the needle is 90 degrees. Beeing a First Watt after all. 🙄
I choose the chassis as the external size was just what I needed for mono blocks suiting my space. I don't mind one heatsink beeing wasted - just wanting somewhat symetry with having sinks on both sides. 🙂
I indeed found a little circuit in the meter case, didn't waste any time finding out what it actually did and removed it. I attached a little driver board for the VU adjusting it to show me 1W into 8ohm when the needle is 90 degrees. Beeing a First Watt after all. 🙄
you could connect it across one rail wire (hoping to get enough voltage sag for needle ) , so measuring Iq
needle will stay idle up to KLUNK! , then it'll go moving slightly , with current modulation
that's at least how needles are connected in most PL amps
needle will stay idle up to KLUNK! , then it'll go moving slightly , with current modulation
that's at least how needles are connected in most PL amps
My first idea was to having it show me output mosfet bias, but I figured it wouldn't actually be useful for anything.
And I can't resist those moving meters while playing music 🙂
And I can't resist those moving meters while playing music 🙂
Thank you for your valuable inputs!

Will report back when I have a working stereo set🙂
Skylar, yes parallel 🙂
Thanks 😉
I choose the chassis as the external size was just what I needed for mono blocks suiting my space. I don't mind one heatsink beeing wasted - just wanting somewhat symetry with having sinks on both sides. 🙂
I indeed found a little circuit in the meter case, didn't waste any time finding out what it actually did and removed it. I attached a little driver board for the VU adjusting it to show me 1W into 8ohm when the needle is 90 degrees. Beeing a First Watt after all. 🙄
Nice build! Just curious where you got the wire insulation from?
Thanks! Looking forward to your build and hearing your listening impressions! 🙂Looking great Twsts 🙂 Mine will be more proletarian 😉
Nice build! Just curious where you got the wire insulation from?
Thank you!
I guess you are thinking about the wire sleeves. These you could buy in lots from ebay like I did, and I think they have them in some hardware-stores aswell. I got mine here:
Various Sizes & Colors Braided Cable Sleeving -Auto Wire Harnessing -Sheathing | eBay
🙂
Thanks! Looking forward to your build and hearing your listening impressions! 🙂
Thank you!
I guess you are thinking about the wire sleeves. These you could buy in lots from ebay like I did, and I think they have them in some hardware-stores aswell. I got mine here:
Various Sizes & Colors Braided Cable Sleeving -Auto Wire Harnessing -Sheathing | eBay
🙂
Ah nice, thank you!
Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
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Your idea of a modular power supply has interested me for some time.
Here are some details about my modular power supply for my F4, M2, and (not yet completed) Aleph-J amps.
The connector is a Neutrix 20A 3-conductor pair for +V, 0V, and -V.
Female receptacle: NAC3FPX
Male plug: NAC3MX-W
The cable itself is a 4-conductor, 13ga speaker wire from Parts Express.
The configuration of the power supply itself is as follows: 6A EIC power filter inlet, CL-60 thermistor, 750VA dual 18v transformer, bride rectifiers (will probably make discrete), then a CRC featuring 39,000uF, 5x 0.47R 3w (might exchange with nice coils), 27,000uF then the power umbilical.
My F4 amp has an additional 2x33,000uF on each rail inside the amp that are shared between the two channels. My M2 amp has 4x39,000uF caps inside the chassis, one per rail, per channel, for greater isolation between the channels.
So, the overall PSU configuration is CRC-umbilical-C. I want to play around a little and see if I can get the PSU ripple a little lower with CCR-umbilical-C or a CCL-umbilical-C configuration. Then it needs a chassis to enclose it all.
Right now, my playback chain is my Turntable-> Pearl 2-> LDR based BA-3 pre-> M2 -> FHXL speakers. My wife keeps asking me to turn it down 😉
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When commercial cable pushers sheat it is sometimes to cheat 🙂sheathing ..... or cheating ?
🙂
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