You have a reason to be proud, I have followed the Babelfish thread 🙂
I will hear the M2 soon. My main speakers (low WAF Altec A5s) are easy to drive but picky and are kept hidden fom sensitive eyes in my dungeon 😉 . Your Babelfish might be a candidate for my high WAF two-ways in our living room, not a difficult load but need good control of the bass, although my F6 was quite capable in that respect.
I will hear the M2 soon. My main speakers (low WAF Altec A5s) are easy to drive but picky and are kept hidden fom sensitive eyes in my dungeon 😉 . Your Babelfish might be a candidate for my high WAF two-ways in our living room, not a difficult load but need good control of the bass, although my F6 was quite capable in that respect.
I did the changes as mentioned in my previous post.
They give about 1.8A current.
I haven't gone back !!!
They give about 1.8A current.
I haven't gone back !!!
of course that generally sound is having same bone .......
up to few watts , there is no difference , simply because currents involved aren't on that level needing any Berserking 🙂
after few watts , there is simply more authority in practically everything , and of course easiest detected in bass part of spectrum
as usual - lesser THD down is giving lesser THD in rest of spectrum
maybe I didn't wrote enough in layman terms ( forgive me , still having that overwhelming sense of proudness , as usual when reinventing the wheel ) , but I believe there is plenty of info in Berserkin' M2 (Babelfish M25) thread ......... in post #59 few impressions of test with usual fifi twosmallbassesand4ohmsoverall speakers ......
Kicking self in head, are these be berserking M2 (M25) boards going to be available?
Russellc
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I been very slow in completing my M2, bought the boards from Tea back in April of '16. I let many other projects push the M2 build to the back of the shelf. Finally finished it today.
Currently playing with my Pass BA-3 pre. What a nice combo. I like it better than the F6 at this moment. Though I must say the F4s really shine with various preamps.
Too many choices.
No noise with the BA-3 preamp full up. I did go shielded cable on ins and outs, along with Mu-metal covers on the xformers. I did have the same problems setting the offset that others described. So R6 got and extra 1k and R7 was changed to 52.3k. I found this combo gives me some adjustment room on P1.
Additionally I added one of Jeremy's (Destroyer OS) Fo-Felix EMI filters.
Thanks to all for a great little amp.
Currently playing with my Pass BA-3 pre. What a nice combo. I like it better than the F6 at this moment. Though I must say the F4s really shine with various preamps.
Too many choices.
No noise with the BA-3 preamp full up. I did go shielded cable on ins and outs, along with Mu-metal covers on the xformers. I did have the same problems setting the offset that others described. So R6 got and extra 1k and R7 was changed to 52.3k. I found this combo gives me some adjustment room on P1.
Additionally I added one of Jeremy's (Destroyer OS) Fo-Felix EMI filters.
Thanks to all for a great little amp.
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Russellc , to stop (me) abusing this thread , I replied in more appropriate place:
Babelfish M25 , AKA M2 on steroids , AKA M2-XA25 bstrd
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Nice build. I'm like you having a slow start on a number of projects. I'm finishing a VTA SP14 and plan to start the M2. I wanted to know how you mounted the power transformer? I was thinking of doing the same thing. Also what size chassis are you using?
Thanks,
Brad
Brad I used the deluxe 4u case from the store. The bracket is a piece from the 8020 garage on ebay. Here is a link to the bracket page. Great deals from 8020 Inc Garage Sale in Angle-Stock- | eBay Stores
I have also added, sorry to say a blurry photo of the bracket. Its 4mm thick. This piece came precut to the size. Their store constantly changes, so what you need today may not be there, but later it will. The xformer is an Antek 400va fits nicely in the vertical space.
I have also added, sorry to say a blurry photo of the bracket. Its 4mm thick. This piece came precut to the size. Their store constantly changes, so what you need today may not be there, but later it will. The xformer is an Antek 400va fits nicely in the vertical space.
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Does it pay to use film capators over electrolytic, Elna Silimic II, in C2? I have some 10uF Audyn Cap Q4 caps I can use.
I think what the OP meant is: "Does it pay any dividends to use film capacitors over electrolytic, Elna Silimic II, in C2?"
And I would like to know also. If I don't have ANY caps in my parts bin and have to BUY caps, is it better to get film capacitors than electrolytic for C2?
Are they even interchangeable in that role or do we need a polarized cap there as the circuit diagram shows?
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nobody can tell you that , your hearin apparatus being attached to you , not them
personally , I like more 10-22uF SIlmic bypassed with 1uF MKC , than any other (sane) solid cap , in that position
personally , I like more 10-22uF SIlmic bypassed with 1uF MKC , than any other (sane) solid cap , in that position
Thanks ZM. I appreciate your input and it's good to know what your preference is! 😀
Edit: Please forgive my ignorance, but what does that mean? Is the bypass capacitor connected in parallel with the other one?
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Edit: Please forgive my ignorance, but what does that mean? Is the bypass capacitor connected in parallel with the other one?
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from my choice , you can dig that I'm romantic 
seriously - there is slight difference between proper quality caps , and you can lay it only on taste level , not quality
seriously - there is slight difference between proper quality caps , and you can lay it only on taste level , not quality
