Well, I have connected the input GND to ground (the short blue wire). I have also tried with a jumper to make sure the input signal is really at 0V.
Input and Input Gnd should be connected to Ground.
Due to the Opamp in the input stage, this circuit is very sensitive to noise on the input pin.
Due to the Opamp in the input stage, this circuit is very sensitive to noise on the input pin.
bomellberg said:Thanks Jan, for the clarification!
Well, the other board behaves exactly as it did earlier. 30-80mV reading between tpA and tpC and approx 0.3V between tpB and GND.
The 30-80mV is slowly fluctuating. I'll check it tonight with the oscilloscope from work.
masteramp:
You have used the LM49170 in your amp right? I mean, could it be the OP-amp? I have seen several issues earlier in this thread about OP-amp choices causing oscillations.
Best regards,
/Bo
I changed PCB and compensations. My version runs great with LME49710.
masteramp said:
I changed PCB and compensations. My version runs great with LME49710.
Could you explain more. Are modification due to use of LME49710.
Marc
masteramp:
OK, great. Then I know it should work with my setup.
With the input grounded, I get 0V tpA - tpC. I also get -0.27V on tpB, which could be a clue perhaps, since the offset should't be this big, right? If I turn the bias pot I can get it down to 160mV, but not lower. Also, the adjusting does not give any change on tpA - tpC, that's still 0V.
Best regards,
/Bo
OK, great. Then I know it should work with my setup.
With the input grounded, I get 0V tpA - tpC. I also get -0.27V on tpB, which could be a clue perhaps, since the offset should't be this big, right? If I turn the bias pot I can get it down to 160mV, but not lower. Also, the adjusting does not give any change on tpA - tpC, that's still 0V.
Best regards,
/Bo
Bo;
Let's make some simple basic measurements 😉
Please measure Base, Emitter and Collector Voltages of Q103 to Q107 (all with reference to Ground).
Let's make some simple basic measurements 😉
Please measure Base, Emitter and Collector Voltages of Q103 to Q107 (all with reference to Ground).
Idefixes said:
Could you explain more. Are modification due to use of LME49710.
Marc
I used different value of C102 and C103 - 100pF. My Lynx (OP27/37, LME49710) is stable with C102/103 from 82pF to 120pF.
Lynx can be tuned by changing value of C102,103 and 109 for most of OPAs.
Is it truth, Jan?

_____________________________________________
Base-Emitter voltages should be around 0,6V
OK, here are the results of the Swedish jury:
All measurements are in order B C E
Also, since the amp was on for some time, I noticed the only thing getting warm at all was the zener resistors.
Best regards,
/Bo
All measurements are in order B C E
Code:
B C E
Q103: 60.2 0.47 61.0
Q104: -59.6 -0.69 -60.3
Q106: 0.38 62.3 0.0
Q107: -0.72 -62.1 0.0
Q105: -40m 0.36 0.74
Also, since the amp was on for some time, I noticed the only thing getting warm at all was the zener resistors.
Best regards,
/Bo
I used different value of C102 and C103 - 100pF. My Lynx (OP27/37, LME49710) is stable with C102/103 from 82pF to 120pF.
Lynx can be tuned by changing value of C102,103 and 109 for most of OPAs.
Is it truth, Jan?
No. C102 and C103 are miller caps. I found that a value of app. 33pF provides the best square wave respons.
C109 is there to prevent oscillation. 100pF works fine in most cases.
Also, since the amp was on for some time, I noticed the only thing getting warm at all was the zener resistors.
Not sitting at my usual working PC with all informations, this is from my head.
Q103 and Q104 seems ok. Drawing app. 4 mA through R111/R112. Voltages at Q106 and Q107 seems low, but this could be caused by the bias setting.....
Drivers Q110 and Q111 should get warm if on, so they must be off. I will look more into it, when I sit at my normal working PC.
I have forgotten to say thank you to everyone trying to help me with this problem. Even my family is considering the forum members as "friends."
"Why don't you the friends at the forum, someone must know." 😀
Internet is amazing...
Best regards,
/Bo
"Why don't you the friends at the forum, someone must know." 😀
Internet is amazing...
Best regards,
/Bo
ACD said:
No. C102 and C103 are miller caps. I found that a value of app. 33pF provides the best square wave respons.
C109 is there to prevent oscillation. 100pF works fine in most cases.
I have best square wave respons with 100pF
🙂
I have checked with the scope now. It turns out that Q103 and Q104 both have oscillating voltages on their collectors. It is 4.2Vpp and approx 1.9MHz (the peaks are ~520nS apart).
I guess the million dollar question is: why is it oscillating?
Best regards,
/Bo
I guess the million dollar question is: why is it oscillating?
Best regards,
/Bo
argofanatic said:
I took the plunge and ordered 4 OPA627's.
I swapped them in and everything is beautiful. Oscillations disappeared, and I was able to set the bias voltage.
😉
bomellberg said:
I guess the million dollar question is: why is it oscillating?
/Bo
This topology is difficult to keep stable.
You may try very slow opamp at first, like OP27, or probably uA741. If you get stable, you can try faster opamp, and tune frequency compensation.
To take the scope was the 1st reasonable thing you have done. No one should work without scope!!!
Dammit Ragnwald! Are you trying to get me broke?
Jokes apart, it would be really interesting to try another OP. Perhaps the cheaper OPA134 or what it's called. But an even more satisfying solution would be to solve it with the LM49710, as mastermind has clearly shown is possible.
Tuning some caps perhaps? I just don't have a clue... 😕
Best regards,
/Bo

Jokes apart, it would be really interesting to try another OP. Perhaps the cheaper OPA134 or what it's called. But an even more satisfying solution would be to solve it with the LM49710, as mastermind has clearly shown is possible.
Tuning some caps perhaps? I just don't have a clue... 😕
Best regards,
/Bo
PMA said:To take the scope was the 1st reasonable thing you have done. No one should work without scope!!!
Oh, I thought the 1:st reasonable thing was to start this DIY-project in the first place! I actually think I have done some reasonable things before this, but I admit I have made some stupid mistakes, now in afterthought.

Thanks for you suggestions, PMA, I'll try to see if I can get my hands on a slower OP.
Best regards,
/Bo
Ragnwald:
Yes, I know, I re-read the whole thread yesterday. The pictures that PMA has taken is speaking for themselves. But since I already had the LM49710's that's what I went for. If I can't fix the oscillations I will offcourse swap them for something else, perhaps the OPA627.
Best regards,
/Bo
Yes, I know, I re-read the whole thread yesterday. The pictures that PMA has taken is speaking for themselves. But since I already had the LM49710's that's what I went for. If I can't fix the oscillations I will offcourse swap them for something else, perhaps the OPA627.
Best regards,
/Bo
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