A six-gang motorized pot isn't the way I'd solve volume.
If you use normal hifi woofers with a copmression tweeter, you may need 10 or 15dB attenuation on the tweeter channels to match sensitivites.
I'd use attenuator plugs if needed to lower the gain, so normal listening doesn't require a lot of attenuation on the maste volume on the minidsp, and also avoid too much attenuation on specific channels. Then, I'd keep using the MiniDSPs volume control for normal adjustments.
Using attenuator plugs after the MiniDSP will help minimize hiss with high gain amps on very sensitive drivers.
I've selected to use relatively low gain amps (15dB) on mid and tweeter. That works well.
Johan-Kr
If you use normal hifi woofers with a copmression tweeter, you may need 10 or 15dB attenuation on the tweeter channels to match sensitivites.
I'd use attenuator plugs if needed to lower the gain, so normal listening doesn't require a lot of attenuation on the maste volume on the minidsp, and also avoid too much attenuation on specific channels. Then, I'd keep using the MiniDSPs volume control for normal adjustments.
Using attenuator plugs after the MiniDSP will help minimize hiss with high gain amps on very sensitive drivers.
I've selected to use relatively low gain amps (15dB) on mid and tweeter. That works well.
Johan-Kr
The volume pot is an easy addition. I used the adc mode as an easy way to vary the bass level when the mini dsp only controlled the woofers. Does the remote work when in adc mode?
My Amps have no power switches. My thought is to add a power switch to he mini dsp using the rem in and have the rem out trigger the amps.
Check that the remote out actually will manage to turn off the amps quickly enough when you power down the minidsp. The amps shuldn't be on when shutting the minidsp on or off.
Johan-Kr
Hi Evan;
Just double checked, the remote volume does not work, when the dsp master volume is in ADC mode. (What does ADC stand for?...)
There have been other minidsp owners expressing a concern about the lack of visual indication for master gain. The idea of a volume pot, with a pointer knob, at my listening position, connected via cable, is starting to grow on me! According to the manual, there is a 3 pin terminal on the pcb for this pot. Is this terminal still vacant in the 4 x 10 complete unit or is it occupied by the IR remote option?
This also would require a jack on the rear of the dsp cabinet, there are some holes that have been blanked out (for additional inputs) that could possibly be utilized.
IMHO, switching power amps off by remote, is not a feature that appeals to me. In my case, there is a separate dedicated AC line and circuit breaker in the main house panel, for each amplifier. In any case turning all 3 amps on at the same time would involve a considerable in rush current. Also, my Yamaha P2200 (HF) and Phase Linear 700B (MF) amps do not have protection relays, so they are still "alive" for almost 30 seconds after being switched off, Evan, do your amps mute instantly if the power is removed?
Thanks Johan;
My tweeters are plannar type, not quite as efficient as compression drivers (but lower distortion, in my opinion--topic for another thread!) The amps that need gain reduction, have input volume pots, so I plan to use those and leave the individual output gain controls of the dsp, set to 0. Fluid posted a link regarding analogue vs digital volume control, which was an 'eye opener' for me.
My current issue; When the usb control connection is disconnected, and reconnected, the dsp can not be controlled by the user interface. "Connection to the board timed out. Please check your USB connection". As mentioned, Unplugging the dsp power momentarily, seems to bring everything back to normal.
Regards, Peter
PS The dsp seems to tolerate a 10 second USB interruption, but after 2 minutes, it 'forgets who it was talking to!"
Just double checked, the remote volume does not work, when the dsp master volume is in ADC mode. (What does ADC stand for?...)
There have been other minidsp owners expressing a concern about the lack of visual indication for master gain. The idea of a volume pot, with a pointer knob, at my listening position, connected via cable, is starting to grow on me! According to the manual, there is a 3 pin terminal on the pcb for this pot. Is this terminal still vacant in the 4 x 10 complete unit or is it occupied by the IR remote option?
This also would require a jack on the rear of the dsp cabinet, there are some holes that have been blanked out (for additional inputs) that could possibly be utilized.
IMHO, switching power amps off by remote, is not a feature that appeals to me. In my case, there is a separate dedicated AC line and circuit breaker in the main house panel, for each amplifier. In any case turning all 3 amps on at the same time would involve a considerable in rush current. Also, my Yamaha P2200 (HF) and Phase Linear 700B (MF) amps do not have protection relays, so they are still "alive" for almost 30 seconds after being switched off, Evan, do your amps mute instantly if the power is removed?
Thanks Johan;
My tweeters are plannar type, not quite as efficient as compression drivers (but lower distortion, in my opinion--topic for another thread!) The amps that need gain reduction, have input volume pots, so I plan to use those and leave the individual output gain controls of the dsp, set to 0. Fluid posted a link regarding analogue vs digital volume control, which was an 'eye opener' for me.
My current issue; When the usb control connection is disconnected, and reconnected, the dsp can not be controlled by the user interface. "Connection to the board timed out. Please check your USB connection". As mentioned, Unplugging the dsp power momentarily, seems to bring everything back to normal.
Regards, Peter
PS The dsp seems to tolerate a 10 second USB interruption, but after 2 minutes, it 'forgets who it was talking to!"
Hi Pete,
I think you are discovering the fact that although it is possible to do what you want with this unit it was not really designed to do it without issue day in day out. These units work much better when you set then up by USB initially to do the programming and then run them stand alone after that.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/accessories/misc-accessories/volume-control-pot-detail
This is the volume accessory from Minidsp and you could make your own version with a long cable. ADC stands for analogue to digital convertor. The analogue value of the pot is being converted to digital to set the level.
This is what I thought most of the Minidsp units were using but it turns out the more expensive ones like yours are using an encoder.
It is usually a good idea to reduce the input by a few dB's to prevent clipping from sources that can go over 0dB (they do exist) and even more if you apply a lot of boost with your EQ, but you may not need to use any input cut with the 4x10 as it is using double precision 56bit numbers this should allow huge boosts to be used without clipping as long as the final output level is brought below 0dB.
The number of EQ's you use should be based on what you need to shape the frequency response, the gain structure of the individual EQ's does matter as it is better to cut first and boost later but again with 56bit precision you may be able to get away with any order you choose.
The ideal result is to have the volume dial at 100 when it is as loud as you need the system to go, what voltage that is will depend on the rest of your system.
I think you are discovering the fact that although it is possible to do what you want with this unit it was not really designed to do it without issue day in day out. These units work much better when you set then up by USB initially to do the programming and then run them stand alone after that.
https://www.minidsp.com/products/accessories/misc-accessories/volume-control-pot-detail
This is the volume accessory from Minidsp and you could make your own version with a long cable. ADC stands for analogue to digital convertor. The analogue value of the pot is being converted to digital to set the level.
This is what I thought most of the Minidsp units were using but it turns out the more expensive ones like yours are using an encoder.
Question 1; (yes, there is a question buried in here!)
Regarding gain structure; should levels (in and out) be ideally adjusted for (maybe) -3 db or is this too close to clipping? Setting levels to -10 db seems like a waste of headroom.
It is usually a good idea to reduce the input by a few dB's to prevent clipping from sources that can go over 0dB (they do exist) and even more if you apply a lot of boost with your EQ, but you may not need to use any input cut with the 4x10 as it is using double precision 56bit numbers this should allow huge boosts to be used without clipping as long as the final output level is brought below 0dB.
Although the unit has '32-bit internal processing, am I correct in thinking that performance would be maximum, if individual output levels could be left at 0, and the fewer PEQ filters used, the better?
The number of EQ's you use should be based on what you need to shape the frequency response, the gain structure of the individual EQ's does matter as it is better to cut first and boost later but again with 56bit precision you may be able to get away with any order you choose.
The ideal result is to have the volume dial at 100 when it is as loud as you need the system to go, what voltage that is will depend on the rest of your system.
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