Why isn't the tweeter a dipole.
Like the B&G Neo 3 dipole and low price.
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Bohlender Graebener Neo3W Planar Tweeter w/Back Cup | Parts-Express.com
Bohlender Graebener Neo3 Flush Mount Faceplate Pair | Parts-Express.com
Alternative to saba green cone the low distorsion visaton b200.
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http://www.visaton.de/en/chassis_zubehoer/breitband/b200_6.html
Dipole with b200 here you can find also filter details for the b200
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http://www.visaton.de/en/bauvorschlaege/2_wege/noboxbb/index.html
Or use a AL170 like keyser did a very nice driver.
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http://www.visaton.de/en/chassis_zubehoer/tiefton/al170_8.html
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The baffle that you did design can easy hide a 18" behind is and then it is not a big problem to keep the opening for the cone 12" wide and 18" high. So what concerns dimensions you do not have to change your design.
Correction maybe make the opening wider 11-14 inch. Or make the opening round where the woofer is located.
Designing is often about making compromises DQ828.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Been busy re gearing (slowing down) an industrial sewing machine today, so I can get on with my upholstery project I have been putting off for 10 years.
The design you have shown has a 8" opening, it is the design I like the most, but yes I will play with the design.
The other problem with 18" drivers is getting them here. the 15" Altecs only just make Australia Post standard postage size, If I have to go away from Australia Post (AP) on this end (ie USPS send it to AP and they deliver it) the already excessive postage goes thru the roof.
If any aussie knows of a way around this let me know.
The Raal has rave reviews, Lukasz seemed to think it worked fine without being dipole & I have seen a number of designs not using a dipole tweeter.
Maybe BMSPRO?
BMS 15S330 nice driver xmax 8mm. Athough the Altec is hard to beet it is a very good choice for a OB.
Thiele-Small
BMS 15S330 nice driver xmax 8mm. Athough the Altec is hard to beet it is a very good choice for a OB.
Thiele-Small
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What did I say altec hard to beat? This 18" is perfect.
BMS pro 18s430v2 within xmax up to 110dB incredible!😎
Thiele-Small
BMS pro 18s430v2 within xmax up to 110dB incredible!😎
Thiele-Small
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Any idea why the 12" BMS didn't measure well?
I have recently discovered the pricing I was looking at for the BMS was way out of date & the supplier didn't even know he still had a Ebay store with all of this out of date info on it.
What did I say altec hard to beat? This 18" is perfect.
BMS pro 18s430v2 within xmax up to 110dB incredible!😎
Thiele-Small
By the way what speakers are you listerning to? any links to photos?🙂
What did I say altec hard to beat? This 18" is perfect.
BMS pro 18s430v2 within xmax up to 110dB incredible!😎
Thiele-Small
A fault enterd the simulation, with a wrong Re I had simulated.
Here the corrected simulation. still great even better spl.
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PA bandpas
horn almighty
stereo measurement horn almighty
bookshelf BR cut of 30Hz! And classic reciever build 1975-78
A very good sounding dáppolito bandpass fatboy I sold them recently. And my classic Vfet WEGA(sony)4810(5650) and reciever. In my own build audio furnature in the same wood as the fatboy.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/170024-project-presentation-horn-almighty.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/130857-high-end-3-way-dappolito-aluminiumcone.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/149260-v-fet-repair-wega-v4810-solid-state-heaven.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/137036-big-bandpass-fatboy.html
Active two way backloaded horn with titanium tweeter and midwoofers. build in 2000.
I am building a class -d 2x180W amplifier so I can tune my latest design MONITOR-xl to highest level. This is the one I am listening to at the moment and Horn-almighty.
This measurement is done with a Yaqin mc10l tube amplifier so not ideal.
My first speaker was a karlson 3 way with horn.
Class D amp.
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specs
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Your choice, but my experience is sticking to passive makes things harder, not easier. Particularly in OB.
Takes a wide baffle to lower the dipole peak to the vicinity of most drivers' Fs. At least for me the sacrifice in directivity's not worth the avoidance of equalization.
This may sound a bit odd, and it's taken me several years to realize this, but... in my opinion active design is a lot easier than passive design. Disadvantage being financially the fact that you need more amps, but a few low power amps for the highs are not too expensive.
..well, that rather depends on the *priority* of your goals. 😉
IF your priority is for truly low freq. response in a basic 12"x24" package for the bass drivers operating as dipoles - then this will do it. As far as it being active.. well that's only for the bass drivers, where it make the most sense (for a variety of factors). The rest of the design can be passive.
These are powered sub-woofers with relatively low mass for their fs and excursion.. plus the servo design will help the integration (both in cancellation loss and basic sound character). Their efficiency is largely irrelevant, BUT at 1 meter wired in parallel to the amplifier they are about 93 db "average". (..thought the "average" is meaningless for a nearly non-existent baffle.)
And yes, I know of plenty of "high" efficiency 12" drivers with a Qts of .7 or higher.. the trouble is - they have nearly no xmax and have high fs. 😉
Basic driver design limitations will necessarily *exclude* an efficient driver with a high Qts, a low fs, and high excursion. 🙁
These drivers are about as close as you'll get (and remember that their dual voice coils are wire in parallel for an extra 3db, i.e. basically they are 87db drivers with an extra VC that when paralleled result in 90db):
http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=28
In a 2 driver config. you could parallel one coil with one driver, and the other coil with the other driver's coil. Power one of the paralleled coils in your passive design and the other paralleled coils actively. If you wired them all in parallel (all 4 VC's) you'd be looking at an average load of 2 ohms.. which is a bit much for most amplifiers (..though it would result in an average of about 96 db).
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I have looked at those drivers & they look very interesting, but they would really stress the budget, beyond breaking point I expect.
😱Your getting a bit complicated for this simple mind, there is more than one reason I like the KISS principal.
What setup would you recommend?
I assume I would need six amps?
Some sort of controller/equalizer thingy
Is that it?
Yep, you'll need at least 6 channels of amplification, also an x-over / DSP unit, such as the Behringer DCX2496 or the MiniDSP 2x4. Or more correctly you'll need however many of these as is necessary to supply the necessary channels. ie for a stereo 3-way you need one Behringer, but two MiniDSPs. (if you wanted a stereo 2-way, you'd need one of either, for a stereo 4-way you'd need two of either). There are other options as well, such as crossing over in software via PC, using an external multi-channel sound interface.
There's not really a lot else you need, any other peripherals would be the same as in a passive system, depending on your wants.
I personally am going to build a 2-way open baffle system using a MiniDSP board and an amp I already have. Only thing left to do is buy a second stereo amp for the woofer channel. On the upside: no impedance measuremnts to do, no coils and caps to buy, (almost) no soldering, and as an added bonus I can do digital room correction, dipole roll-off equalisation, linkwitz transform, etc. With that amount of correction available, most TS-Parameters become "obsolete", pretty near all you need is Sd and Xmax for bass.
wait a minute.. you never mentioned budget before.. 😀
The AE drivers shouldn't be more expensive than the BMS drivers you were looking at. (..which btw, others have reported as being considerably less efficient than stated on their website.)
If you want something simple.. well, you are looking at the wrong design. A good dipole design isn't going to be truly simple, and a passive implementation will significantly increase complexity.
Suggestion: Do what I did for one of my designs.. just get some midbass drivers that are suitable with a bit of resistance from a large cored inductor (in series with the two paralleled drivers), and don't worry about lower freq.s.. Here are some:
Dayton PA255-8 10" Pro Woofer | Parts-Express.com
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