Thank you! I was leaning towards flexible/stranded wire, but I wasn't sure. I had not seen it mentioned before. I was very glad to hear from you.
Have a great weekend!
Have a great weekend!
my wish also straight to yours. A short read of a RA Modul says that these can handle 170 Volts ! of supply voltage. I think this value refers more to the MOSFets than to the Tripath chip ... I am a bit techniqal greenbee, so I am not 100 % sure.
This voltage applies to the rail voltage for the amplifier, surely this chip drives external mosfets (and it can handle quite a few, it's a monster in terms of gate charge/drive capability!), but this chip can make that possible!
The RA modules also have all parts open on a tiny PCB, and at 41hz you can order even a more upgraded specimen of that semi-discrete Tripath chip.
It uses TC2002 and this is the latest of this chip family. That means it's got all the latest of protection and sensing circuitry.
You don't have to use such a monstrous rail voltage, at lower voltages it does mean an extremely stable amp, which can drive extreme loads (under 1 ohms for instance) And it will stay entirely cold then....
Speaking of state of the art Tripath, this is one that makes my heart beat a few PBM faster!😎
I've been looking for a project that uses a spare trafo with 1KVA Secondaries: 2X 40V 12A and the new T4 says "*Power supply: Dual AC; AC38V-0-38V (30 – 40 is ok) or single DC 36 – 54V"
40v AC seems to be the top of recomended AC Power. Do you all think I could build a project around these parts?
Thanks,
Robert
40v AC seems to be the top of recomended AC Power. Do you all think I could build a project around these parts?
Thanks,
Robert
Hi,
The 38-0-38 AC power supply for T4 is a typo on the web site. It requires a single voltage of course.
T4 is pretty new, not much info available about the board yet. 40V AC is about 56V DC. The chip can handle even more but I would ask hifimediy to confirm that all other parts will be ok.
Your trafo has enough power for several T4 boards 🙂 You can parallel the secondaries to use it's full power or use each secondary to power separate board.
DIY Cable has them for 55 bucks. I think they would also work with the new TA3020 board
but the secondaries are 13v not 9v as called for on the website. It would be cool if some other people had this trafo and could blaze a trail.
but the secondaries are 13v not 9v as called for on the website. It would be cool if some other people had this trafo and could blaze a trail.
it's not a typo actually. It needs dual AC becaues of the bridge used. If DC is used then single Voltage and GND is sufficient.
Thanks Steinar for rectifiying 😉 new stuff on this board so reference to previous boards seems not relevant anymore.
@Coz: forget about the idea to parallel outputs of trafo !
If I had to buy a power supply, I would pick a regulated SMPS not linear supply. Better results and more watts per kilo.
@Coz: forget about the idea to parallel outputs of trafo !
If I had to buy a power supply, I would pick a regulated SMPS not linear supply. Better results and more watts per kilo.
I'm still a bit confused. I have a 300VA 30-0-30v trafo. will that be too much, after the rectifier and caps I usually get around 43v DC?
Hello V-Bro
Could you please provide a link for the RA modules at 41 Hz
'The RA modules also have all parts open on a tiny PCB, and at 41hz you can order even a more upgraded specimen of that semi-discrete Tripath chip.
It uses TC2002 and this is the latest of this chip family. That means it's got all the latest of protection and sensing circuitry'.
Yours Sincerely
John
I'm about to order some MiniDSPs for our active crossovers. They will feed our power amps and they only output a max of .9 V RMS. I will be buying some of the HiFiMeDIY amps, but not sure yet which versions.
From the HiFiMeDIY amps specs it appears they require 1.5 V (RMS?). I read in a post last September that the amps then available could have a couple of resistors changed to allow full output from a lower voltage.
My questions are:
1. Can the T1, T2, T3 & T4 amps all be modified to deliver full output with .4 V input?
2. Do the PC boards have plated through holes or are they surface mount?
3. Is the 1.5 V input spec RMS and not Peak to Peak?
Thanks very much. I'm looking forward to finally hearing these amps in our system.
Rod
From the HiFiMeDIY amps specs it appears they require 1.5 V (RMS?). I read in a post last September that the amps then available could have a couple of resistors changed to allow full output from a lower voltage.
My questions are:
1. Can the T1, T2, T3 & T4 amps all be modified to deliver full output with .4 V input?
2. Do the PC boards have plated through holes or are they surface mount?
3. Is the 1.5 V input spec RMS and not Peak to Peak?
Thanks very much. I'm looking forward to finally hearing these amps in our system.
Rod
I don't see a way to edit my post. My question 1 should have said Full output with .9 volt input.
Rod
Which of the amps would be ideal for a ~6ohm load? I'm getting ready to start on a pair of Pencil 7's (Mark Audio Alpair 7) and have been looking to pick up one of hifimediy's amps as well. Thanks!
IMHO you could be happy with T1 sta510-ALPS pot, but T4 will be better (only because of more undistorted power available), if you can afford it. [I ordered a T4...It will arrive in the middle of april; if you want to know about...contact me ;-)
Hi there, I just bought a T1 CTR 80x2 @ 8ohm amp and I want to increase the gain so that it works well from mp3 players etc rather than mixers/laptops.
I've read a lot of this thread and discovered I can double the gain by switching a resistor.
You're going to have to forgive my newbish nature, but I don't even know where the resistors I need to change are on the board. Are there any tips/guides on doing this?
Anyone?
eta: I've seen the post about putting 20k resistors in parallel with r1 and r4. Is that the easiest approach? What type of resistor?
(yeah, I'm new to this 😀 )
I've read a lot of this thread and discovered I can double the gain by switching a resistor.
You're going to have to forgive my newbish nature, but I don't even know where the resistors I need to change are on the board. Are there any tips/guides on doing this?
Anyone?
eta: I've seen the post about putting 20k resistors in parallel with r1 and r4. Is that the easiest approach? What type of resistor?
(yeah, I'm new to this 😀 )
Last edited:
this sounds like the easiest way. I'm guessing it's the tiny things marked R1 and R4 on the board then 😀
Any hints on resistor types? I don't want to get the wrong ones.
(yes, I'm new to this 😀)
- Status
- Not open for further replies.