Cipriano,
I've done projects with 7 ply boards - should be ok. As Dave has already mentioned, bracing is recommended with Pensil cabinets.
Also please check if the surfaces of your plywoof are flat and don't have any bows/warps.
Good luck with the build, and look forward to updates (and pics). 🙂
I've done projects with 7 ply boards - should be ok. As Dave has already mentioned, bracing is recommended with Pensil cabinets.
Also please check if the surfaces of your plywoof are flat and don't have any bows/warps.
Good luck with the build, and look forward to updates (and pics). 🙂
Hopefully the 11MS's will arrive tomorrow. One side of my pine ply has a bunch of knots. Is there any structural advantage as to the orientation of the knots (inside, outside)? Thanks!
cipriano,
The visible knots on the outer layer of the plywood should not be a contributing factor to the structural integrity; as you have 7 layers in your plywood, the knots should be part of one layer.
Aesthetically you might prefer the knotted surface to be not visible; if you decide to put that side on the inside, just check if the knots do not make the surface uneven for the joints you will be making with other panels for the chassis.
The visible knots on the outer layer of the plywood should not be a contributing factor to the structural integrity; as you have 7 layers in your plywood, the knots should be part of one layer.
Aesthetically you might prefer the knotted surface to be not visible; if you decide to put that side on the inside, just check if the knots do not make the surface uneven for the joints you will be making with other panels for the chassis.
My build skills are rudimentary (to be kind), so once they are ready for a finish, it looks likes it will be a latex paint job. Using a generous amount of Durham's Water Putty on the inside corners. The 11MS's are burning in with about 12 hours of smooth jazz off of Directv.
Regarding the 23/32 pine ply, I remembered that about a decade ago, I did my first build. It was a BIB Pioneer BOFU ... made with 1/2" OSB! 😳 So, I'm feeling better about this Naturala 7-Ply.
Regarding the 23/32 pine ply, I remembered that about a decade ago, I did my first build. It was a BIB Pioneer BOFU ... made with 1/2" OSB! 😳 So, I'm feeling better about this Naturala 7-Ply.
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As you can see in the picture, there is a few voids along the edges. But I've been practicing my routing skills along a leftover lengthwise piece and nothing seen so far. Keeping my fingers crossed!
Does anybody know what type of screws are provided with these Mark Audio drivers? The closest fit I could find was a Torx15 but they stripped pretty quick once a bit of torque was needed. Thanks
They are black hex screws with some metric designation. I use screws that parts-express sells:
https://www.parts-express.com/speak...hardware-speaker-grill-cloth/screws-fasteners
Both are fine, I prefer the rounded head.
If you chamfer the back of the speaker mounting hole much, I suggest you take a look at the following:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/a-variant-on-driver-mounting.403542/#post-7486545
It proved easier to do than I thought going into it, and worked well.
Skip
https://www.parts-express.com/speak...hardware-speaker-grill-cloth/screws-fasteners
Both are fine, I prefer the rounded head.
If you chamfer the back of the speaker mounting hole much, I suggest you take a look at the following:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/a-variant-on-driver-mounting.403542/#post-7486545
It proved easier to do than I thought going into it, and worked well.
Skip
They are M3 socket head cap wood screws. Length will depend on what drivers you have. They are approx. 15mm long for the smaller MA drivers.
What happened to the screws that came with your drivers? They are usually in the foam that supports the drivers in the box.
jeff
Jeff,
IIRC with the larger MA drivers like the Alpair 10/11/12, the screws are M4, right?
Cipriano,
Here you go with a link from Amazon - you can choose different sizes/lengths from the drop-down menu.
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Tapping-Screws-Tensile-M4x25mm/dp/B083QFJZR4
IIRC with the larger MA drivers like the Alpair 10/11/12, the screws are M4, right?
Cipriano,
Here you go with a link from Amazon - you can choose different sizes/lengths from the drop-down menu.
https://www.amazon.com/Socket-Tapping-Screws-Tensile-M4x25mm/dp/B083QFJZR4
I still doubt they are M3... I use a lot of M3 machine screws for amplifier builds and those are more similar in diameter to the screws that came with the Alpair 6P... I also have M2 machine screws and those are much thinner. The screws that came with the Alpair 10/12 for me are very similar in diameter to the M4 machine screws that came with my amplifier chassis.
I think you actually have M4 screws Jeff, but you think you have M3. 😉 🙂
I think you actually have M4 screws Jeff, but you think you have M3. 😉 🙂
I guess working as a mechanical designer in a manufacturing environment for 30+ years gets me zero credibility on this forum.
jeff