Which could well improve the soundadd a fancy braided sleeve and it looks like you could have bought it at the hifi shop
I finally have my router template copy jigs back from the cnc shop if anyone is interested in them. I need to take some pics but they have a cut out for the driver rebate and a shaped cut out for the magnet, Pilot holes too and reference marks for easy alignment. £20 plus p+p.
For the new 7’s or 11’s.
(Alpair 7ms, Pluvia 7’s or Alpair 11ms, Pluvia 11, others may work too)
For the new 7’s or 11’s.
(Alpair 7ms, Pluvia 7’s or Alpair 11ms, Pluvia 11, others may work too)
That’s one speaker cable done, very time consuming winding the conductors evenly around the central tube
Attachments
Now this has me confused!
Just connected up an old speaker to measure impedance, the speaker direct to multi meter measures 3.6 ohms, I then measured the same speaker via approx 2metres of old Chord co speaker cable I have laying around & same 3.6 ohms, I then measured via my new thin, 23gauge QED cat6 cable expecting the impedance to drop but it rose to 4.8ohms?
Just connected up an old speaker to measure impedance, the speaker direct to multi meter measures 3.6 ohms, I then measured the same speaker via approx 2metres of old Chord co speaker cable I have laying around & same 3.6 ohms, I then measured via my new thin, 23gauge QED cat6 cable expecting the impedance to drop but it rose to 4.8ohms?
Did you measure the two cables alone? Thin cable should have more resistance than thick. Dave and Scott did mention as much.
Yeah, I measured the new cable, each conductor, end to end, measured 1.2ohms, the old Chord cable measured 0.6 ohms but made no difference when measured as a circuit via the speaker?
Just connected up my A11MS with the new cat6 cables, sure enough, the impedance has risen from 7.6 ohms with the old 1.5mm VanDamme cables, to 8.8ohms with the new cat6.
I am guessing this is because, the speaker cable resistance is no different to adding another driver in series, where the resistance adds together?
I am guessing this is because, the speaker cable resistance is no different to adding another driver in series, where the resistance adds together?
What does it sound like Jason?
dave
Hi Dave, I haven’t had time to have a proper listen yet, just settled down to watch tv & it’s sounding fine, I’ll have a proper listen to some music tomorrow
Hi Scott
Happy new year! I understand all internal walls of Okapi need felt. In addition, does Okapi need poly fill staffing? Thank you for clarification.
Happy new year! I understand all internal walls of Okapi need felt. In addition, does Okapi need poly fill staffing? Thank you for clarification.
Sticking them up here for completeness as this has become the default thread for the 7MS & 11MS at the moment. See posts 33 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...-fostex-tb-dayton-seas-etc-2.html#post5554175 & 34 https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...-fostex-tb-dayton-seas-etc-2.html#post5554180 for further details.
great - thank you very much!
No, just the specified lagging. You can add some if you want to, naturally, nobody is holding a gun to your head, but it wasn't included in the design.
I did not use any bracing in the design; the doubled front and top baffles + plinth provide sufficient structural rigidity for what is a relatively small box. Paraphrasing what I wrote above, you can include some if you wish (and no, you don't need to lag it) providing you do not heavily restrict the longitudinal standing wave, or heavily errode Vb.
Last edited:
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- New Markaudio Drivers