A7.3 and P7HD ideally will want 9 liytes or so per driver. A pair of sideways CGR-like miniOnken with the centre in the middle?
dave
dave
Some seem to do a phantom centre driver, but for ease just stick with L&R?
A little array of CHN 50 or 40s could be fun?
A little array of CHN 50 or 40s could be fun?
Yes a phanton centre is doabe and simplier.
We did a full LRC with A6PeN so smaller drivers works, won’t go as low. Comes down to how much room you have. And you already have the 4s to hand?
dave
We did a full LRC with A6PeN so smaller drivers works, won’t go as low. Comes down to how much room you have. And you already have the 4s to hand?
dave
I have a 7phd and a 11ms looking for cab design for each. Stand mount on the 7 Floor for the 11. looking for that great midrange and voice
Along with a pair of SDX7 woofers (wall amountable if required). I would have loved to have heard that system properly set up.
Too many drivers and not enough shop space to fiddle around with the potential permutations these days; time or infirmity not yet much of an issue - but I wouldn’t try to heft a sheet of 3/4” plywood.
Regarding phantom vs physical centres, after futzing about with it in personal systems for at least 10yrs, definitely fell into the latter camp. It’s the most important channel in most mixes, and the last place I’d like to compromise.
@chrisb can you elaborate. I would generally favour simple left/right stereo set up. There are some wiring techniques that sum a centre channel, but are you saying doing it proper with a receiver and a dedicated centre is worthwhile?
I'm not averse to this, means I can relocate my NAD658 to another room for stereo set up. But I often find rear channels distracting and 11.3 channels of atmos seems daunting.
@chrisb @planet10 if money were no object, and size not an issue and you had too implement a Mark Audio driver set up to sit under a tv within 1.2m box, what would you choose driver/arrangement, lets assume we can throw on a sub for <60-80Hz, so the full range would only see 60Hz+
I'm not averse to this, means I can relocate my NAD658 to another room for stereo set up. But I often find rear channels distracting and 11.3 channels of atmos seems daunting.
@chrisb @planet10 if money were no object, and size not an issue and you had too implement a Mark Audio driver set up to sit under a tv within 1.2m box, what would you choose driver/arrangement, lets assume we can throw on a sub for <60-80Hz, so the full range would only see 60Hz+
Centre does not need to go low and should match the LR.
Money no object for TV use a set of MAOP 10.2 in either FHXL or Pensil with a matching Mar-Ken Centre.
dave
Money no object for TV use a set of MAOP 10.2 in either FHXL or Pensil with a matching Mar-Ken Centre.
dave
I have pretty much the arrangement that Dave describes front row is A10.3 (Pensils L&R as the room can’t graciously accommodate the FHXL’s required footprint, and MarKen centre with 5dg slant to the front baffle), along with Pluvia7 front height, and A6.2 rear surrounds.
I’m using a Onkyo HT receiver; bass management set with all speakers designated as small, and LP to the subs at 80 & 120 IIRC. Works well enough in 340sq ft room with no additional acoustic treatment than fabric covered furniture; my name is Chris, not Gene😉
I’m using a Onkyo HT receiver; bass management set with all speakers designated as small, and LP to the subs at 80 & 120 IIRC. Works well enough in 340sq ft room with no additional acoustic treatment than fabric covered furniture; my name is Chris, not Gene😉
Thanks. I may just get a home theatre receiver to make life easier. Would allow a sub to integrate easily.
Next question I have a pair of Pensil I built to the P7HD specification. Do I need to do anything to the internals size or stuffing to get it to work with the MAOP7?
Next question I have a pair of Pensil I built to the P7HD specification. Do I need to do anything to the internals size or stuffing to get it to work with the MAOP7?
Here is my quick and a bit dirty well braced MAOP7 Pensil prototype. All precision cut 12mm ply, screwed together, with doubled 24mm walls at the base, and behind the driver with magnet brace, 18mm baffle. The original idea was to skin in 6mm Bamboo, for an external wall of 18mm-30mm +/-.
This design allows for easy flush routing of the port slot, and is very quick to build with no power tools needed.
They are nearly ready to install the drivers.
This design allows for easy flush routing of the port slot, and is very quick to build with no power tools needed.
They are nearly ready to install the drivers.
I can wholehearted recommend the FH3 for the P7HD. Sounds fantastic, I know I have this combo. KJF do the kit. as well as Custom Cans, both in the UK.
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For reference, this represents the general Planet10 bracing scheme used in most of the scores of enclosures ”we” built. Pensil with A7.3
Single layer of 15mm BB, with rear panel screwed to perimeter cleating and off centre vertical brace coupling front to back for approx 60%(?) of line length, with interlocking lower brace side to side.
edit: note no obstructing horizontal shelf / window pane bracing, and IIRC the CSA was increased slightly to compensate for the material thickness of the vertical members.
I was always more of a fan of floorstanders than ”bookshelf” / stand mounts, so on occasion had to seal off the bottom portion to retain an optimal acoustic centre height of driver, such as with the FE167E.
Single layer of 15mm BB, with rear panel screwed to perimeter cleating and off centre vertical brace coupling front to back for approx 60%(?) of line length, with interlocking lower brace side to side.
edit: note no obstructing horizontal shelf / window pane bracing, and IIRC the CSA was increased slightly to compensate for the material thickness of the vertical members.
I was always more of a fan of floorstanders than ”bookshelf” / stand mounts, so on occasion had to seal off the bottom portion to retain an optimal acoustic centre height of driver, such as with the FE167E.
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It was just an experiment, they were nested onto another projects cut list, as it was 12mm I thought the holey bracing would brace and be fairly transparent inside the cabinet and was more worried about panel resonance I hadn't really considered the quarter wave loading would be interrupted. I'll throw in my 7.3's soon and see how it sounds. I haven't yet cut the port slot. Would it be better to leave it sealed/port elsewhere and negate that loading?
There is always more ply and I can always make another set...
There is always more ply and I can always make another set...
Not really, it will still act as a BR, though all things considered, might want to experiment with a second vent as close as practical to the driver (block the lower one) to see if you like one over the other as it will change both the amount of reflex loading and wide range response IME, ditto in sims unless heavily damped of course. 😉
Personally I would be removing it for design spec. Not a big job. Then listen you may be pleasantly surprised. If too much resonance just clad the outside. Out of harm's way.