Thank you, Chris,
I had three pair of Diatone P610MB from Koji. I now have two and a half pair, having rolled over on one in a drunken stupor while it sat on the bed.
Genius Poinz
I had three pair of Diatone P610MB from Koji. I now have two and a half pair, having rolled over on one in a drunken stupor while it sat on the bed.
Genius Poinz
Poindexter said:
5 drivers... guess you'll just have to do HT?
My last clumsy ended up in phase plugged FE127e, but there have been quite a few others (like forgetting to turn the Variac down just before testing the filaments on an 811)
dave
I have another idea about how to connect the driver in the rear with the M8 bolt. How about making the "floor" of the reflex chamber a removable access panel? This would allow access to the inside when mounting the driver, making it possible to use a standard cross-brace right behind the driver that the driver would mount to. The cross-brace could be installed when assembling the cabinet.
The access panel could be attached with screws along all four of its edges. The screws screw into narrow pieces of wood that are glued around the bottom of the compression chamber. Or, small metal brackets could be used instead of narrow boards.
Here’s a picture of the back of a cabinet that shows narrow pieces of wood glued along the sides that the access panel screws onto. In this cabinet, those pieces of wood are only glued partway around the access hole, but they could be glued all the way around the hole in the Maiko cabinets. You can also see the cross-brace that the driver mounts to (but there is no bolt in it in this photo). That’s the back of a gold-plated D5nf driver, by the way. You can also see a Feastrex 9” passive radiator below it. (Sorry the picture is so low-res. I had to lower the resolution to get it small enough to post here.)
This method would eliminate the need for a long threaded M8 rod and the need to make a hole in the back of the cabinet. As long as the access panel is securely fastened, there shouldn’t be any rattling or vibration problems, I think.
Can anyone think of any disadvantages to doing it this way?
Mike
The access panel could be attached with screws along all four of its edges. The screws screw into narrow pieces of wood that are glued around the bottom of the compression chamber. Or, small metal brackets could be used instead of narrow boards.
Here’s a picture of the back of a cabinet that shows narrow pieces of wood glued along the sides that the access panel screws onto. In this cabinet, those pieces of wood are only glued partway around the access hole, but they could be glued all the way around the hole in the Maiko cabinets. You can also see the cross-brace that the driver mounts to (but there is no bolt in it in this photo). That’s the back of a gold-plated D5nf driver, by the way. You can also see a Feastrex 9” passive radiator below it. (Sorry the picture is so low-res. I had to lower the resolution to get it small enough to post here.)
This method would eliminate the need for a long threaded M8 rod and the need to make a hole in the back of the cabinet. As long as the access panel is securely fastened, there shouldn’t be any rattling or vibration problems, I think.
Can anyone think of any disadvantages to doing it this way?
Mike
Attachments
Oh, and maybe the narrow boards should be lined with something like felt or rubber on the side that faces the access panel. That would seal the reflex chamber better and could also help prevent any vibration or rattling, etc.
Mike
Mike
Mike,
What you really want as an ideal is nothing but very tight, precise wood-to-wood glued joints throughout the enclosure. Having portions of the enclosure held in place by screws is considered bad construction practice as the structural integrity of the enclosure is greatly reduced wherever screws are used as the sole means of holding a piece in place. Obviously the driver itself needs to be held by screws, and there obviously has to be a hole for the driver, but ideally that's the only part of the speaker where things would be held together by screws. Another possible exception might be around the binding posts, but that "window" would in the nature of the case be quite small.
I'm pretty sure that what you propose doesn't make a lot of difference since it is just moving the opening from one face to another.
-- Chris
What you really want as an ideal is nothing but very tight, precise wood-to-wood glued joints throughout the enclosure. Having portions of the enclosure held in place by screws is considered bad construction practice as the structural integrity of the enclosure is greatly reduced wherever screws are used as the sole means of holding a piece in place. Obviously the driver itself needs to be held by screws, and there obviously has to be a hole for the driver, but ideally that's the only part of the speaker where things would be held together by screws. Another possible exception might be around the binding posts, but that "window" would in the nature of the case be quite small.
I'm pretty sure that what you propose doesn't make a lot of difference since it is just moving the opening from one face to another.
-- Chris
I almost put my finger through the D5 when installing into the original freddie. I was in mindset of "drill holes and tighten screws," and forgot to be gentle when I reached out to grab the driver without even looking. It made crinkly paperish sounds of pain, and I released just in time. There was absolutely no damage. Whew! Now I handle them like a faberge egg. haha
That Feastrex picture is cool, Mike. I see he has double layer plywood construction. Neat!
That Feastrex picture is cool, Mike. I see he has double layer plywood construction. Neat!
Rich, it does look like two sheets of plywood, but it's actually a single sheet with a rabbet cut for the access panel. Rabbet cuts in plywood sometimes create the illusion that there are two sheets instead of one.
Mike
Mike
Poindexter, Dave, Scott, Chris, Mike, et al...
Referring back a ways in this thread to re-testing the D5nf parameters, I wanted to ask why the D5nf needs to be tested again? Are the first data in question?
I know WTPro is capable of a few more tests like offset and high current tests, and I can see how Feastrex might be interested to use these tests for characterizing and QC'ing new drivers. But for our purposes in designing cabinets for low power driver, isn't WT2 or Dayton WT3 adequate?
WT3 is only $100, and with other projects in my mind for the future, I am willing to buy WT3 and retest the D5nf if you feel there is a need. I'm sure another datapoint would be valuable confirmation of Chris' results with WT Pro, if nothing else.
Rich
Referring back a ways in this thread to re-testing the D5nf parameters, I wanted to ask why the D5nf needs to be tested again? Are the first data in question?
I know WTPro is capable of a few more tests like offset and high current tests, and I can see how Feastrex might be interested to use these tests for characterizing and QC'ing new drivers. But for our purposes in designing cabinets for low power driver, isn't WT2 or Dayton WT3 adequate?
WT3 is only $100, and with other projects in my mind for the future, I am willing to buy WT3 and retest the D5nf if you feel there is a need. I'm sure another datapoint would be valuable confirmation of Chris' results with WT Pro, if nothing else.
Rich
Richidoo said:
I can't say as i don't know the conditions. But is fair to say that factory specs should be developed from a number of measures as a change in the weather can move the specs around (another reason why making a cab that is tolerant of changes in the T/S is important).
I would say it is more a case of verifying the specs.
I'd buy it in a heartbeat if it didn't only run under Windows.
dave
Richidoo said:
Rich, are you sure it's only $100? Also, do you mean WT Pro? I know that Mr. Teramoto bought WT Pro, and that's what Chris is currently borrowing to measure the D5nf drivers. It costs $999. I couldn't find a product on their website called WT3.
http://www.woofertester.com/shop.htm
Mike
GM, I didn't realize that another company (Dayton Audio) made a product with the same name. Thanks.
You're welcome!
??? I thought the various PE house branded Dayton woofer testers over the years were always made for them by S&L Audio.
??? I thought the various PE house branded Dayton woofer testers over the years were always made for them by S&L Audio.
Mike & GM,
The current Woofer Tester 3 offered by Parts Express is indeed made by S&L. I know that in the past some of the Parts Express woofers were developed by S&L, but I'm not sure whether that is the case for any of Parts Express' current offerings . . .
Chris
The current Woofer Tester 3 offered by Parts Express is indeed made by S&L. I know that in the past some of the Parts Express woofers were developed by S&L, but I'm not sure whether that is the case for any of Parts Express' current offerings . . .
Chris
cdwitmer said:
THE ABOVE STATEMENT IS INCORRECT! Sorry. WT3 is NOT made by S&L . . . it seems to be an *ahem* "sincerest form of flattery."
-- Chris
Maiko
Any new stuff on the Maiko for the Feastrex....
I'm ready to make some sawdust!
Phil
Santa Fe
Any new stuff on the Maiko for the Feastrex....
I'm ready to make some sawdust!
Phil
Santa Fe
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