are the braces in the vents enabled? Seems like an interesting idea. But not the internal braces?
Wow, I'm amazed at all the response this new design is getting. It sure looks like there is a lot of pent-up demand for a high-end cabinet for Feastrex drivers, all right.
I also like the idea of having some sort of base for the cabinet. Otherwise it does seem like it will be a bit unstable since it's going to be relatively tall (around 57").
Chris (Witmer): what do you think about the idea of screwing the driver to the front baffle? I think that Dave and Scott might have a good point about attaching it rigidly to both the front baffle and rear wall (with the M8 bolt) to divide the energy throughout the cabinet as much as possible.
I don't think it will be difficult to get M8 bolts as long as we need them--Rich found short M8 bolts at his local Home Depot, and it should be easy to order longer ones from industrial supply companies online (like MSC Direct, McMasters, etc.).
One thing I'm wondering about is the slight backwards tilt of the cabinet. The purpose was to aim the driver at the listener's ear from a certain distance away, is that correct? Now that it's fairly tall, is that still necessary?
Great work, Dave and Scott! The more I look at it, the more I like it. I can't help but think that it will be the best-sounding cabinet the Feastrex D5nf drivers have ever been in! I think you'll have a winner here.
Mike
I also like the idea of having some sort of base for the cabinet. Otherwise it does seem like it will be a bit unstable since it's going to be relatively tall (around 57").
Chris (Witmer): what do you think about the idea of screwing the driver to the front baffle? I think that Dave and Scott might have a good point about attaching it rigidly to both the front baffle and rear wall (with the M8 bolt) to divide the energy throughout the cabinet as much as possible.
I don't think it will be difficult to get M8 bolts as long as we need them--Rich found short M8 bolts at his local Home Depot, and it should be easy to order longer ones from industrial supply companies online (like MSC Direct, McMasters, etc.).
One thing I'm wondering about is the slight backwards tilt of the cabinet. The purpose was to aim the driver at the listener's ear from a certain distance away, is that correct? Now that it's fairly tall, is that still necessary?
Great work, Dave and Scott! The more I look at it, the more I like it. I can't help but think that it will be the best-sounding cabinet the Feastrex D5nf drivers have ever been in! I think you'll have a winner here.
Mike
Mr. Godzilla, in answer to your question about the design on the mouth braces, the pattern of four circles that's on those braces now is just a temporary placeholder for the Japanese design that will be there later. My daughter Maiko is now working on it! It's somewhat challenging to come up with a design that's elegant, Japanese, and yet not too complex of a hole pattern (so it isn't too difficult to cut out).
Mike
Mike
AdamThorne said:
There is that indication that the mouth braces will be EnABLed, i have to consult with Bud on detail. There are quite a few places where EnABL should have a positive effect, this one place is where a divot might be as effective as a bump and be an artistic element.
dave
Long M8 bolts for $300+/100 at 160mm (6".) 180 and 200mm also available on special order $$$, so forget that route.
http://www.metricmcc.com/queryIMAS.asp?C=1&DefID=126
Maybe asian mfg/supplier would be cheaper. US specialty parts distributor is the most expensive possible source.
Threaded rod M8x1.25 =$5/meter available single quantity.
http://www.metricmcc.com/queryIMAS.asp?C=5&DefID=141
Rich
http://www.metricmcc.com/queryIMAS.asp?C=1&DefID=126
Maybe asian mfg/supplier would be cheaper. US specialty parts distributor is the most expensive possible source.
Threaded rod M8x1.25 =$5/meter available single quantity.
http://www.metricmcc.com/queryIMAS.asp?C=5&DefID=141
Rich
Richidoo said:
That is what i had in mind... this will stick out the back, load down on the double shark's fin, and you can pull the front baffle in towards the back just enuff to really stiffen it up (and make it sonically dissapear).
What is the name of the top knot that the Sumo guys have... the rod end will stick out a ways and will need a disguise.
dave
The rod will stick out unless you can find something appropriately threaded to receive said rod that can be tightened and loosened with a hex wrench.
Dave, the sumo topknot is called "mage" (pronounced mah-gay).
I'll found out what lengths of M8 bolts are carried at my local hardware store and Home Depot. If they have appropriate lengths here, I'd be happy to send them to anyone who needs them.
Mike
I'll found out what lengths of M8 bolts are carried at my local hardware store and Home Depot. If they have appropriate lengths here, I'd be happy to send them to anyone who needs them.
Mike
cdwitmer said:
Exactly. Then you put a big washer, to spread the energy onto the fins, and a bolt on and tune the box with the appropriate torque, add another bolt to lock it, and then add the screw on mage to hide the lot.
dave
mluckow said:
Actually the accent is on the first syllable, and sound of the "gay" part is short in duration. If it was really pronounced like "gay" the Japanese transliteration would look like "magei." So keep that part short when you say it, and hopefully nobody will have any doubts about your (ahem) orientation. Especially with all this talk about "rear mounting."
Thank you very much for that helpful clarification, Chris.
And I'd like to point out that it's equally important to get the first syllable correct as well. It's "mah-gay," not "ahm-gay."
One wouldn't want to get that screwed up in the end.
Mike
And I'd like to point out that it's equally important to get the first syllable correct as well. It's "mah-gay," not "ahm-gay."
One wouldn't want to get that screwed up in the end.
Mike
I just got back from Home Depot and my local hardware store after checking out their selection of M8 bolts for rear mounting the Feastrex drivers.
Home Depot only had 8 mm bolts with hex heads in lengths up to 70 mm in 10 mm increments. (M8 = 8 mm) I bought one just to take home and confirm that it screws into the hole in the back of my D5nf driver, and it does.
My local hardware store had a much larger selection with many lengths and heads to choose from.
For example . . .
They had M8 bolts that are fully threaded from end to end in lengths up to 40 mm. (These had no head, only a female hex hole in the end for an allen wrench.)
They also had some with hex heads that are fully threaded to the head in lengths up to 100 mm.
And they had some with hex heads that were only threaded on the end (about an inch) and not threaded the rest of the length to the head in lengths up to 120 mm.
I haven't seen the dimensions of the Maiko cabinet yet, but I'm guessing that none of these may be long enough to extend through the back of the box. So, we might need to buy them online, as Rich mentioned earlier.
Mike
Home Depot only had 8 mm bolts with hex heads in lengths up to 70 mm in 10 mm increments. (M8 = 8 mm) I bought one just to take home and confirm that it screws into the hole in the back of my D5nf driver, and it does.
My local hardware store had a much larger selection with many lengths and heads to choose from.
For example . . .
They had M8 bolts that are fully threaded from end to end in lengths up to 40 mm. (These had no head, only a female hex hole in the end for an allen wrench.)
They also had some with hex heads that are fully threaded to the head in lengths up to 100 mm.
And they had some with hex heads that were only threaded on the end (about an inch) and not threaded the rest of the length to the head in lengths up to 120 mm.
I haven't seen the dimensions of the Maiko cabinet yet, but I'm guessing that none of these may be long enough to extend through the back of the box. So, we might need to buy them online, as Rich mentioned earlier.
Mike
Considering the app, this should be plenty strong enough and probably long enough for two speakers: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...+Rods+and+Studs~Threaded+Rods&searchIndexId=1
GM
GM
Mike- once the details of enclosure volume and motor mount/driver bracing are determined, sourcing or even custom fabrication of the appropriate M8 bolts shouldn't be much of a problem.
Considering the entry fee for playing with these drivers and the artistic intricacy of the cabinets, the cost of custom machining of the bolts or even aluminum driver mounting plates is relatively minor.
Considering the entry fee for playing with these drivers and the artistic intricacy of the cabinets, the cost of custom machining of the bolts or even aluminum driver mounting plates is relatively minor.
On a system of this caliber, I'd assume a tidy cosmetic treatment is desirable. How about a coupling nut mounted on short threaded nipple to the driver's motor assembly, with a cap head machine screw and washer/gasket from the outside of the rear support spline.
Driver support
Hows about a long M8 bolt that goes from driver to the back of the box. The bolt could be surrounded with a glue lam of plywood. The length of the ply would be the distance from the back of the driver to the inside back of the box.
The more you turned the bolt the tighter the driver/back would get. And since the driver is supported via the plywood, one could unbolt the front and let it float.
P.S
My single port box is ready to mount the Feastrex Driver...
Cold here in Santa Fe today... had to turn on the for the first time...
Happy turkey day everyone.
Long M8 bolts from McMaster Carr in stainless no less.
Hows about a long M8 bolt that goes from driver to the back of the box. The bolt could be surrounded with a glue lam of plywood. The length of the ply would be the distance from the back of the driver to the inside back of the box.
The more you turned the bolt the tighter the driver/back would get. And since the driver is supported via the plywood, one could unbolt the front and let it float.
P.S
My single port box is ready to mount the Feastrex Driver...
Cold here in Santa Fe today... had to turn on the for the first time...
Happy turkey day everyone.
Long M8 bolts from McMaster Carr in stainless no less.
Some great ideas here!
Nobody makes bolts 350mm long, so threaded rod is the only choice to implement the tighten from behind idea.
This implementation might work:
The locknuts fix the threaded rod and coupler so they will not turn when tightening the external bolt head from the rear. Driver is screwed to front baffle. Drop of oil on the end of the adjustment screw will make it work better. Countersinking makes disguise easy, cover it with a bed bolt cover, or whatever. Parts are cheap, even from Mc-Carr.
Here's a link to pic if doesn't show below.
http://www.triangleaudiosociety.com/forumpics/maikobolt.gif
McMaster Carr part #'s
93000A516 threaded rod
91239A442 button head socket screw
93020A781 coupling nut
plus 2 common zinc washer under screw head and on driver
2 common M8 locking nuts at coupler and driver
Rich
Nobody makes bolts 350mm long, so threaded rod is the only choice to implement the tighten from behind idea.
This implementation might work:
The locknuts fix the threaded rod and coupler so they will not turn when tightening the external bolt head from the rear. Driver is screwed to front baffle. Drop of oil on the end of the adjustment screw will make it work better. Countersinking makes disguise easy, cover it with a bed bolt cover, or whatever. Parts are cheap, even from Mc-Carr.
Here's a link to pic if doesn't show below.
http://www.triangleaudiosociety.com/forumpics/maikobolt.gif
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
McMaster Carr part #'s
93000A516 threaded rod
91239A442 button head socket screw
93020A781 coupling nut
plus 2 common zinc washer under screw head and on driver
2 common M8 locking nuts at coupler and driver
Rich
To Bolt the front or not?
If I am understanding GM's post and Mr Hal of Feastrex ideas correctly, both guys were saying to uncouple the front of the driver and simply let it be free...
Is that right?
Infact I think Mr Hal proposed using silk as a gasket for the front. I dont know why silk was proposed but I've got a small basket of raw silk in my wife's fiber collection.
I may have this all wrong...
If I am understanding GM's post and Mr Hal of Feastrex ideas correctly, both guys were saying to uncouple the front of the driver and simply let it be free...
Is that right?
Infact I think Mr Hal proposed using silk as a gasket for the front. I dont know why silk was proposed but I've got a small basket of raw silk in my wife's fiber collection.
I may have this all wrong...
To my knowledge Hal Teramoto has never proposed the use of silk as a gasket. You should feel free to try anything as a gasket if that appeals to you -- I know Mr. Teramoto has used both sorbothane and cork in the past as gaskets, but usually he uses nothing as a gasket. He just uses thin plate washers as spacers initially, while positioning the driver for affixing from the rear, and then removes the thin plate washers for the Official Rear Mounting Ceremony, after which there is a very thin gap between the frame and the baffle corresponding to the thickness of the now-removed washers.
-- Chris
-- Chris
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