another method is to use a zenner voltage limit circuit similar with a crowbar, but instead shorting the voltage, will connect the power resistor in the circuit. i will explain how to do this if there are peoples interested. also, i can explain how to measure the maximum transient voltage with just a multimeter and few components.
Cristi - could you please share with us on how to measure the maximum transient voltage with just a multimeter and few components?
cnx said:
are they R12 and R14 from the amplifier ? if yes, this 2 resistors are from Zobel network, and if they are burned this indicates that the amplifier was osscilating or amplifiyng very high frequencies, >20KHz. this ussualy happen when the input is left unconnected and close to the output or if you touch the input when the amp is running.
can you measure the transistors ? this resistors must be replaced with same or close to the initial value, 15R at 2W.
Yes, i think this is the error.
I connected a DMM to the outputs and touched the input for a short time to check if the Amp is working. But i cant see anything on my DMM, whatever.
I must desolder the transistors to measure correctly if they are burned or not.
In your datasheet, the resistor-value is 22 Ohms, not 15!
How can i prevent the oscillating for future?
I never had such problems with different Tripaths and they are all very stable.
My SMPS delivers only the adjusted voltage, also on power-up.
So i cant see any problem.
It is a special highquality "Audio-Grade"-SMPS from ColdAMP, so it works perfectly in similar enviroments such Class-D/T.
Here the link:
SPS80
Please tell me your email!
cnx said:the wire which i see there if made a short-circuit, was between -V and GND, the amplifier should survive, the wire should be molten already or the power supply to go in overprotection mode. what kind of wire is it ? can you take-it out and place onto a white paper and make a photo ?
anyway, if would be a shortcircuit between those 2 pins at 50V they will be black already and could see spark traces, the capacitors have enough energy to leave serious burns in case of sc.
as i said before, the problem must be an amplifier instability, oscillation on very high freq. due to the wires left unconnected, maybe too close to the smps. try again the amp after replacing the resistors, with the input shorted to gnd.
did the fuses survived ?
Fuses are OK, forget the wire, it doesnt make any short-circuit, i checked it, no problem.
CNX,Guenther_r said:How can i prevent the oscillating for future?
I never had such problems with different Tripaths and they are all very stable.
My SMPS delivers only the adjusted voltage, also on power-up.
So i cant see any problem.
the problems are starting.
Tell us how to select an SMPS for a Power amp.
You said that had to appear in a separate thread.
Why?
Are you embarrassed at just how difficult it can become to power an amplifier from an SMPS?
I believe it takes great design skill to get the two to work together.
I do not believe it is just picking from a shopping list and "hope".
Note that CNX says there is even a risk of failure with the slightest error.there are few types of smps. some of them better than others, some of them worst. an audio grade smps will perform as good as an usual linear power stage made of mains power transformer, rectifier bridge and filter capacitors. for hi-end audio amplifiers which have SN ratio better than 115dB, the power supply will be a challange either if is linear or switched. to avoid all the problems associated with a smps most peoples prefer to use linear supply, which is more simple, robust but more bulky and heavy. and of course more expensive. as a conclusion, depending on the application, tyope of smps and installation (wiring, shielding) the smps can perform better or worse than an equivalent power linear stage. for a switched amplifier, class D or T i would preffer to use SMPS. if is classD and the smps sw. freq. is synchronised with the amp sw. freq. the noise can be cancelled almost complete. the smps which i designed are at least as good as the linear supply stages IF they are installed correctly, wired according with the instructions and matched with the parameters of the amp. the slightest error can lead to decreased performances, noise, and even failure.
AndrewT said:
Note that CNX says there is even a risk of failure with the slightest error.
I never had problems with several Tripaths and different SMPS, all are very stable, so it isnt a problem in this case.
I think, my fault was that i dont connect anything at the input and output (except Multimeter) and touched the inputs....i will order the 2 burned resistors and the 4 transistors. After receiving and repairing i will post the result.
Guenther, replace the resistors with 15R at 2W, same as the ones which were before. use two 100W lightbulbs as resistors and conect in series on each rail, and power-on again the board. it should work. note that when you leave the input of the amp unconnected, and you touch this kind of event is very possible to happen. your body act like an antenna and all the hi-freq noise will be amplified.
Andrew, what's your point? or better said who's behind you ? you are not my customer, you never bought something from me and your shifted questions have one single purpose.i do not consider that "problems started" when an event like this happent. and consider the amount of board which are working at this time without the smallest problem, i'm well enough inside the 1% problem limit at the volume of boards shipped. and unlike some other vendors, i try my best to solve them asap, otherwise, you will see (what makes you happy) a lot of customers complaining.
maybe tomorrow one user will claim that another board was damaged when he drop some water on it. should be because bad design ?
unless you post your questions straight to the topic and in a decent manner, consider that i ignore to answer to your provocation.
i already told you how to select a SMPS but seems that watever answer i will give you you will not be able to understand-it properly with your limited knowledges.
Andrew, what's your point? or better said who's behind you ? you are not my customer, you never bought something from me and your shifted questions have one single purpose.i do not consider that "problems started" when an event like this happent. and consider the amount of board which are working at this time without the smallest problem, i'm well enough inside the 1% problem limit at the volume of boards shipped. and unlike some other vendors, i try my best to solve them asap, otherwise, you will see (what makes you happy) a lot of customers complaining.
maybe tomorrow one user will claim that another board was damaged when he drop some water on it. should be because bad design ?
unless you post your questions straight to the topic and in a decent manner, consider that i ignore to answer to your provocation.
i already told you how to select a SMPS but seems that watever answer i will give you you will not be able to understand-it properly with your limited knowledges.
cnx said:Guenther, replace the resistors with 15R at 2W, same as the ones which were before. use two 100W lightbulbs as resistors and conect in series on each rail, and power-on again the board. it should work. note that when you leave the input of the amp unconnected, and you touch this kind of event is very possible to happen. your body act like an antenna and all the hi-freq noise will be amplified.
I measured the transistors, one is burned.
Todayi will buy these parts.
I hope it works 🙂
cnx, thanks for your great support!
add voltage suppressors as well, or at least two power resistors, 470-560R at 10W on each rail. the power supply has the output voltage greater than 60V at startup.
CNX is not forthcoming.Shaun said:Yeah, Andrew. Why so antagonistic? It is quite unbecoming.
Does he really expect us to invest money on his product without any knowledge on whether it is compatible with our existing or proposed equipment?
Can CNX explain what we should not do to avoid the risk of failure/money wasted?I do not believe it is just picking from a shopping list and "hope".
So far he has avoided specific guidance on selecting SMPS.
AndrewT said:
So far he has avoided specific guidance on selecting SMPS.
so far i gave you the guidance to select a SMPS but you read between the lines and even if i will write 1000 lines you still not get-it.
if you are not satisfied, save your money, don't buy from me. there are alternatives for you. (i hope)
AndrewT said:So far he has avoided specific guidance on selecting SMPS.
If you don't have confidence in SMPS's then just don't use them. The advice he gave concerning use of surge protection components is pretty much standard practise. We used to do this even though we used our own in-house designed PSU's.
Hi cnx,
I placed an order with yout guys and sent the money via paypal, but it hasn't shown up as being placed in my account section of your website. Mind shooting me an email so we can sort it out?
Thanks,
Steve.
I placed an order with yout guys and sent the money via paypal, but it hasn't shown up as being placed in my account section of your website. Mind shooting me an email so we can sort it out?
Thanks,
Steve.
Post #381 quote: another method is to use a zenner voltage limit circuit similar with a crowbar, but instead shorting the voltage, will connect the power resistor in the circuit. i will explain how to do this if there are peoples interested. also, i can explain how to measure the maximum transient voltage with just a multimeter and few components. Cristi - could you please share with us on how to measure the maximum transient voltage with just a multimeter and few components?
Cristi - pls advice. Thanks!
Star up thump with TA3020 v2.0
Hi Cristi,
Just completed my amp with TA3020 v2, sound is really great, lots of details and also gutsy but something is anoying ; there is a big start up thump when I power the unit. When I power off, everything is fine, no sound at all.
You talk in your documentation of R47 which I believe creates a delay at start p of 0.2 sec, is this correct or did I read it wrong ??
The box is quite small so space is limited, I would like to avoid adding lets say of of your speaker protection module even though it would do the job.
I have not check the DC offset because they are normaly OK before you ship.
Any help would be welcome, GREAT work.
Eric
Hi Cristi,
Just completed my amp with TA3020 v2, sound is really great, lots of details and also gutsy but something is anoying ; there is a big start up thump when I power the unit. When I power off, everything is fine, no sound at all.
You talk in your documentation of R47 which I believe creates a delay at start p of 0.2 sec, is this correct or did I read it wrong ??
The box is quite small so space is limited, I would like to avoid adding lets say of of your speaker protection module even though it would do the job.
I have not check the DC offset because they are normaly OK before you ship.
Any help would be welcome, GREAT work.
Eric
Re: Star up thump with TA3020 v2.0
email sent, we get in contact already
to measure the maximum voltage you need an electrolytic capacitor, few uF to 100uF, one fast rectifier diode rated at at least 1A and 100V and one high input impedance multimeter (>1MR). most of the new digital multimeters are good for this, except the 5$ ones. conenct the capacitor with - pin to GND and the diode between the V+ and positive lead of the capacitor, with anode at the SMPS and cathode to the postive lead of the cap.
start the smps, wait for a while and after measure the voltage on the cap. this will be = max. voltage - diode drop.
the crowbar circuit which i mentioned before, can be used to prevent the voltage to rise to dangerous values. to prevent the on/off oscillation, i added one resistor between output and non-inverting input which will add a small hysteresis. for 60V maximum voltage rails, this resistor values shold be used. for different values, can be recalculated. note that R12 will determine the hysteresis range and R10 the tripping voltage. the resistor R11 must be power resistor with the value in range of 220 to 470R at at least 10-15W. the transistor should be an ussual N-channel MOS-FET, 100V and >5A.
R47 is the resistor for current limit of MUTE status pin. the 200ms delay is given by the IC, by default. you can try to make a simple power-on delay using one capacitor connected between pin 1 and 2 with + at pin 1 and - at pin 2. the value of the cap should be 22-100uF, depending of the time which you want to keep the amp in the Mute state. this will reduce the click-pop noise but not eliminate completely, since the power stage is switched off when the amp is muted.
mrevie said:Hi cnx,
I placed an order with yout guys and sent the money via paypal, but it hasn't shown up as being placed in my account section of your website. Mind shooting me an email so we can sort it out?
Thanks,
Steve.
email sent, we get in contact already
lhgin said:
Cristi - pls advice. Thanks!
to measure the maximum voltage you need an electrolytic capacitor, few uF to 100uF, one fast rectifier diode rated at at least 1A and 100V and one high input impedance multimeter (>1MR). most of the new digital multimeters are good for this, except the 5$ ones. conenct the capacitor with - pin to GND and the diode between the V+ and positive lead of the capacitor, with anode at the SMPS and cathode to the postive lead of the cap.
start the smps, wait for a while and after measure the voltage on the cap. this will be = max. voltage - diode drop.
the crowbar circuit which i mentioned before, can be used to prevent the voltage to rise to dangerous values. to prevent the on/off oscillation, i added one resistor between output and non-inverting input which will add a small hysteresis. for 60V maximum voltage rails, this resistor values shold be used. for different values, can be recalculated. note that R12 will determine the hysteresis range and R10 the tripping voltage. the resistor R11 must be power resistor with the value in range of 220 to 470R at at least 10-15W. the transistor should be an ussual N-channel MOS-FET, 100V and >5A.
e_fortier said:Hi Cristi,
Just completed my amp with TA3020 v2, sound is really great, lots of details and also gutsy but something is anoying ; there is a big start up thump when I power the unit. When I power off, everything is fine, no sound at all.
You talk in your documentation of R47 which I believe creates a delay at start p of 0.2 sec, is this correct or did I read it wrong ??
The box is quite small so space is limited, I would like to avoid adding lets say of of your speaker protection module even though it would do the job.
I have not check the DC offset because they are normaly OK before you ship.
Any help would be welcome, GREAT work.
Eric
R47 is the resistor for current limit of MUTE status pin. the 200ms delay is given by the IC, by default. you can try to make a simple power-on delay using one capacitor connected between pin 1 and 2 with + at pin 1 and - at pin 2. the value of the cap should be 22-100uF, depending of the time which you want to keep the amp in the Mute state. this will reduce the click-pop noise but not eliminate completely, since the power stage is switched off when the amp is muted.
Attachments
Hi Cristi,
A few qestions before I order your protection module;
1. Size of the PCB ?
2. Why is there DC connection on the connector. Is DC and AC required ?
3. My power transformer (500VA) has 3 secondaries; +- 40Vac, 6A output AND a small 18Vac, 2A output (not used for now), can I powered your module only with the 18Vac ?
4. Is there any resistor to change to operate your module at 18Vac ?
5. Is there a connection schematic somewhere ?
Thank you,
Eric
A few qestions before I order your protection module;
1. Size of the PCB ?
2. Why is there DC connection on the connector. Is DC and AC required ?
3. My power transformer (500VA) has 3 secondaries; +- 40Vac, 6A output AND a small 18Vac, 2A output (not used for now), can I powered your module only with the 18Vac ?
4. Is there any resistor to change to operate your module at 18Vac ?
5. Is there a connection schematic somewhere ?
Thank you,
Eric
e_fortier said:Hi Cristi,
A few qestions before I order your protection module;
1. Size of the PCB ?
2. Why is there DC connection on the connector. Is DC and AC required ?
3. My power transformer (500VA) has 3 secondaries; +- 40Vac, 6A output AND a small 18Vac, 2A output (not used for now), can I powered your module only with the 18Vac ?
4. Is there any resistor to change to operate your module at 18Vac ?
5. Is there a connection schematic somewhere ?
Thank you,
Eric
1. 71x43x28mm
2. the module can be powered either with AC or DC, whatewer is available.
3. the 18V sec. is ok, i can replace the relay with 24V model or
4. increase the resistor connected in series
5. the schematic i posted in previous pages, please check, or i will send you by mail
if the space is an issue, i will search a lower profile relay, which have just half height, and the board will not be taller than 15mm.
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