Yes, MOSFETS should be facing the bottom of the chassis for best convection properties.
Hopefully you have perforated top/bottom panels.
Best,
Anand.
Hopefully you have perforated top/bottom panels.
Best,
Anand.
Chris, if for some reason your PSU parts get delayed for a long period of time, I have the parts to cover you.
Drop me a line if needed.
Drop me a line if needed.
Thanks a million. Appreciate the generosity. They appear to have shipped today. So maybe they'll arrive tomorrow. I placed a repeat order today for the same since the PSU boards are back in stock. So hopefully they're catching up!
PSU parts and input caps arrived today. Amp boards are now complete! Getting started on the first PSU now. Last chance: discrete rectifier or monolithic? Decisions, decisions... (Already one or two votes for monolithic).
Attachments
I believe discrete can make a difference in cleaning up your power. I went monolithic on my F7 clone and am still chasing down the last bit of noise. On my Pearl 2 build I went with mur820’s on the diyAudio PSU board. Silent as can be. I’m sure there are other factors but discrete seems to be night and day in my experience.
Just a reminder that monolithics were good enough for Papa Pass in the commercial version. 🙂
I suppose the only way to be sure is to build two amps, one each way, and direct compare. That would also let you compare things like removing C1, defeating the short circuit protection, comparing Linear and Toshiba input transistors, single vs. dual mono power supplies, etc, etc. (I'm only half joking...)
I suppose the only way to be sure is to build two amps, one each way, and direct compare. That would also let you compare things like removing C1, defeating the short circuit protection, comparing Linear and Toshiba input transistors, single vs. dual mono power supplies, etc, etc. (I'm only half joking...)
I should have said... But don't stall your build if you have the parts on hand already. 🙂 Tweaking the finished project is the next three projects. 😉
Hi Chris, I noticed on your channel board pics that you installed a muti-turn pot for R8 which is ok. The recommended value is to set it at 1K ohms or just install a 1K ohm resistor.
See Post 1311 & 1313 in the link below
Aleph J illustrated build guide
See Post 1311 & 1313 in the link below
Aleph J illustrated build guide
Yes sir. I do have it set to that. I installed it before I saw the post with that info. I did order a 1K and will probably replace R6/R8 pair as suggested since it’s pretty easy to do.
Thanks for the inspection!
Its not about time but heat dissipation. Mount it on the bottom of the box, it will run hot.
Great point. I don’t have any kind of experience knowing how hot they run. The tray is certainly a substantial heat sink.
Going to start gathering signal wires. I have some two-conductor shielded Tefzel wire from an avionics project that I thought might be suitable for signal wire from the XLR plugs. I’m not entirely sure without inspection if the conductors are twisted or parallel in the jacket. May not matter though. As long as I have it, might as well use it, I suppose. It’s very compact cable. Don’t know that fire-rated cable is necessary in this device. 😛
I also have some nice coax, but probably not appropriate to run them in parallel for a balanced input. Experts’ opinions?
I also have some nice coax, but probably not appropriate to run them in parallel for a balanced input. Experts’ opinions?