Thanks for the update Jim.
I'm not sure where the values 9.2uF and 4.2uF have come from, but the series capacitance is 2.95uF which is close to the value of 2.5uF estimated by ralphfcooke in post #68.
It's been a long, but interesting journey and it appears we've got there in the end.
Hope you will update us further on the performance of the turntable when your project is completed. 🙂
I'm not sure where the values 9.2uF and 4.2uF have come from, but the series capacitance is 2.95uF which is close to the value of 2.5uF estimated by ralphfcooke in post #68.
It's been a long, but interesting journey and it appears we've got there in the end.
Hope you will update us further on the performance of the turntable when your project is completed. 🙂
The 9.2 uf and 4.2 uf were readings I took with a capacitance meter on the new 4 uf cap and the old, piggy backed cap that was attached when I got the table.
I did not but I will try to do so today. We are busy getting ready to leave for vacation tomorrow.
Just in case someone is refurbishing a table like this...I've got a CEC FR-180 with that dead capacitor as well. If you have a look at the picture at the beginning of the thread, you can see the 3 numbers 2-0-1,7 written at the top end of it. So it is a double capacitor; I've replaced the dead one with 2 and 1,7uf, wired as it was before and the motor is running absolutely stable and cool.
It has even 2 caps like that, the second one reads 0,5-0-0,7 and is wired in parallel through a switch for running it also at 60hz.
At first listening I am surprised by the 3 dimensional sound it generates, although a little bass shy. The idler wheel is hardened, so maybe a new one will fix that issue.
Hope it helps...
It has even 2 caps like that, the second one reads 0,5-0-0,7 and is wired in parallel through a switch for running it also at 60hz.
At first listening I am surprised by the 3 dimensional sound it generates, although a little bass shy. The idler wheel is hardened, so maybe a new one will fix that issue.
Hope it helps...
Attachments
Thanks, Jogi.
So the original metal can cap which was marked 3.7 uF on its body was actually a dual 2.0 uF and 1.7 uF cap.
This was suspected on page 1, but we missed those markings at the top of the can!
So the original metal can cap which was marked 3.7 uF on its body was actually a dual 2.0 uF and 1.7 uF cap.
This was suspected on page 1, but we missed those markings at the top of the can!
It took me a while to figure it out while staring stupidly at all those wires🤔
Do you still own that table? It's difficult to find someone in Europe who refurbishes idler wheels, which is badly needed in this one.
It is very speed stable, same as my Sony TTS8000, which is remarkable for a TT from 1965.
Do you still own that table? It's difficult to find someone in Europe who refurbishes idler wheels, which is badly needed in this one.
It is very speed stable, same as my Sony TTS8000, which is remarkable for a TT from 1965.
It was breadhead who owned the turntable.
I don't know of of a European refurbisher of idler wheels. The recommended experts are thevoiceofmusic.com and they do international business.
I don't know of of a European refurbisher of idler wheels. The recommended experts are thevoiceofmusic.com and they do international business.
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