The green resistor appears to be an original fixture. If it was definitely wired in parallel with the start winding then I am unsure of its function.
On the occasions when a resistor is shown in relation to an induction motor, it is shown in series with the run capacitor as per the diagram in post #6 and in the attachment below. However, the value of the resistors shown is in the order of 200Ω rather than 2kΩ.
Let's wait and see how the motor runs with the new run capacitor before playing around with the resistor.
On the occasions when a resistor is shown in relation to an induction motor, it is shown in series with the run capacitor as per the diagram in post #6 and in the attachment below. However, the value of the resistors shown is in the order of 200Ω rather than 2kΩ.
Let's wait and see how the motor runs with the new run capacitor before playing around with the resistor.
Attachments
Motor seems to have more torque without the resistor. With the resistor in the circuit I could stop the pulley by pinching with my fingers. Without the resistor I can't but the motor also has more vibration with the resistor out of circuit. Would wiring the resistor in series hurt anything? Thank you!
At least the motor hasn't been fried - yet! 
Won't hurt (I hope!) to try the resistor in series with the capacitor, but worth checking its present resistance first.
Break the connection between the brown wire and the capacitor and insert the resistor into the gap.
Keep a look out for the motor overheating and switch off immediately if it's detected.
Would still like to know the type of capacitor you have obtained in order to eliminate possible causes.
I will be away from the computer for a wee while, but look forward to your report.
Won't hurt (I hope!) to try the resistor in series with the capacitor, but worth checking its present resistance first.
Break the connection between the brown wire and the capacitor and insert the resistor into the gap.
Keep a look out for the motor overheating and switch off immediately if it's detected.
Would still like to know the type of capacitor you have obtained in order to eliminate possible causes.
I will be away from the computer for a wee while, but look forward to your report.
I'm flummoxed! Can't explain why the 2kΩ resistor only overheated when the new cap was introduced.
Does the green resistor actually have 2kΩ stamped on it?
We're shooting in the dark without a circuit diagram. Surprised that no one with experience of vintage turntable motor circuits has chipped in to set us on the path to enlightenment.
You say the motor ran, albeit with some vibration, when the 2kΩ resistor was removed. What is the current draw in that situation and is the motor overheating?
Does the green resistor actually have 2kΩ stamped on it?
We're shooting in the dark without a circuit diagram. Surprised that no one with experience of vintage turntable motor circuits has chipped in to set us on the path to enlightenment.
You say the motor ran, albeit with some vibration, when the 2kΩ resistor was removed. What is the current draw in that situation and is the motor overheating?
Welcome back! Hope you can help - I'm floundering!
If I have interpretated the wiring correctly, the higher resistance run winding (black/brown; 309Ω) is already connected directly across the supply.
The 2kΩ resistor was originally in parallel with the lower resistance start winding (black/grey; 175Ω) and the combination was in series with the run capacitor.
This is the original configuration which appeared to work until the new capacitor was inserted, when the 2kΩ resistor went red hot!
Don't know if the motor is spinning, but my head certainly is!
Don't let the motor get that hot as you're in danger of burning out the windings, after which any hope of restoration would be over!