I am trully sorry...but I am not getting it.Once I put them back in the car, should I connect the ground screw of the HU to the ground terminal of the amp??
If they are both properly installed in the vehicle (and both powered by the vehicle's battery) and the head unit powers up, the grounds of the two would be connected to chassis ground.
got it.
i`ll let you know whats the result.
btw
beeing 0.8 ohm between the rca shields and the ground, do I still have to make the connection with the cables and fusese?or they are not needed anymore?
I read somewhere that a "cool" thing back in the day was to make it as an inssurance policy ...a bridge between the rca-s of the amp to the ground of the amp....kind of a remote function .something like that.
have you heard of something like that?was this the next step?or what you where trying to make me do yesterday?
have you heard of something like that?was this the next step?or what you where trying to make me do yesterday?
HOLLY S H % T !!!!
IT WORKED !!!! 😕😕😕😕😕😕😕😕😕
made the bridged between the rca shields and the ground of the amplifier :O :O :O and it played music in the speakers
I have hunch that theese were the next steps you would have taken me next perry.to make the same thing.
Any ways.Going to do some testing now, fix the bridge a little better.do you suggest a fuse put in between the ground of the amp and the rca shield???and what value.
Thank you for your patience and frecvent posting in my thread.
You gave me a lot of new experience that I`ve accumulated.
Thank you verry much and I think that there wi`ll be a few more posts in this thread before I close it up.
Thanx a bunch ! Nr.1 Man ! You have my respects !
IT WORKED !!!! 😕😕😕😕😕😕😕😕😕
made the bridged between the rca shields and the ground of the amplifier :O :O :O and it played music in the speakers
I have hunch that theese were the next steps you would have taken me next perry.to make the same thing.
Any ways.Going to do some testing now, fix the bridge a little better.do you suggest a fuse put in between the ground of the amp and the rca shield???and what value.
Thank you for your patience and frecvent posting in my thread.
You gave me a lot of new experience that I`ve accumulated.
Thank you verry much and I think that there wi`ll be a few more posts in this thread before I close it up.
Thanx a bunch ! Nr.1 Man ! You have my respects !
The problem was that you didn't have the same ground for the signal source and the amp. This prevented the regulator for the input op-amp from working properly. The same thing will happen if there is an open shield.
i`ve made some checking out....I found out the there is a resistor on the back of the board (i`ve found it ...frankly its the only piece there ) that bridges the bbp/bpm (don`t remember exactly ) with the ground.
i`ve measured it with the ohm meter and i get no reading.could it be that it is fried and replacing it could make the amp work without the bridged connection made this morning?
only problem and here is where I need your help perry, is that I don`t know the resistors value, and I can`t really find it on the schematic.
If you had the amp AND the head unit grounded to the chassis of the vehicle and you read less than 1 ohm between the RCA shield and the case of the head unit, you shouldn't need the jumper.
Post a photo showing the resistor.
Post a photo showing the resistor.
We`ll..here I go again..
New problem :
- The amplifier goes into protection mode.It kills the sound when I turn the volume up.It won`t go out of protection untill I bring the volume down.
My speakers ar at 8 ohm, and because of that I never wen`t with the amplifier to high with the volume.
The amp is at about 70-80% and I just keep the control from the source.
Now I have done some later tests on it in the house after the problem was spoted.
I hocked up the speakers in paralel for 4 ohm, and It goes intro protection a lot quicker that before.I have to go down with the volume I believ under 50% .
Someone said something about overflow current beeing to high, or to try and skip the rellay by bridgeing over it.
New problem :
- The amplifier goes into protection mode.It kills the sound when I turn the volume up.It won`t go out of protection untill I bring the volume down.
My speakers ar at 8 ohm, and because of that I never wen`t with the amplifier to high with the volume.
The amp is at about 70-80% and I just keep the control from the source.
Now I have done some later tests on it in the house after the problem was spoted.
I hocked up the speakers in paralel for 4 ohm, and It goes intro protection a lot quicker that before.I have to go down with the volume I believ under 50% .
Someone said something about overflow current beeing to high, or to try and skip the rellay by bridgeing over it.
If the amp only shuts down when it's driven to relatively high volume, you need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection. Since it's only switching off when driven hard, you need to confirm that the voltage is sufficient at the point just before the amp shuts down.
stupid question...
When doing this tests the amp should be runing with source signal and speakers connected correct?and the reading should not be made in idle mode but in full runing mode...correct?
ok.tested it.Got signal from my phone ...
the readings shown are the following :
1) 9.32 on the B+ of the amp.After it hits protection mode it jumps to 10 V and something
2) on the Rem+ i don`t getno reading what so ever.Not even in idle mode or play mode.
battery has allmost 13 V charge in it
here are the photos of the resistor from the back part.the one I stated talking about.I`m posting it now.sorry , don`t got a better camera.it makes a bridged between the gnd and the btb of the DIN input
the readings shown are the following :
1) 9.32 on the B+ of the amp.After it hits protection mode it jumps to 10 V and something
2) on the Rem+ i don`t getno reading what so ever.Not even in idle mode or play mode.
battery has allmost 13 V charge in it
here are the photos of the resistor from the back part.the one I stated talking about.I`m posting it now.sorry , don`t got a better camera.it makes a bridged between the gnd and the btb of the DIN input
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And how do I do that?If you got some tips for me it would be great.
I`ll do some research on my own.Search the web for simmilar problems.
I`ll post when I have something new.
The alternator in the vehicle should bring the voltage up to about 13v when the engine is running.
question for you....
I have a fuse of 3A on the rem cable tot he B+.
I`ll remove it and then check the results.Something changes I`ll post here.
Perry..please help me out on this one..
The amp before this one..the gm-1200A.I gave that one to a friend...he told me later on that he had the same problem....with the protection mode.
He did this to it : got the relay out....made 3 bridges (don`t know how to correctly say it) ...and with this 3 bridges ...he bypassed the induction coil and the relay....and he says
hes getting 60 V per channel and not 27 as it first gave out on its outputs.
What do you recomend?should I try it too?is it posible?
the relay in the first amp was ad2023 matashita.
I can`t get a read off mine because of some metal plate in front of it.could it be posible to have the same relay type?
The amp before this one..the gm-1200A.I gave that one to a friend...he told me later on that he had the same problem....with the protection mode.
He did this to it : got the relay out....made 3 bridges (don`t know how to correctly say it) ...and with this 3 bridges ...he bypassed the induction coil and the relay....and he says
hes getting 60 V per channel and not 27 as it first gave out on its outputs.
What do you recomend?should I try it too?is it posible?
the relay in the first amp was ad2023 matashita.
I can`t get a read off mine because of some metal plate in front of it.could it be posible to have the same relay type?
You MUST get the voltage up to acceptable levels before you do anything else. With the engine running, what's the DC voltage across the battery terminals?
Can I connect the amp to the battery charger?
Its late november here, and its getting a bit challenging to sit in the cold and try differnt tests.This way i`ll get for sure 12V.
The only question is if it will do any harm to the amplifier.Do you reccomend hooking it up to the battery charger.
This way i`ll simulate the engine runing of the car.the alternator
Just read the battery chargers values.
it give out allomst 14 v...13.45~13.55.
Wi`ll it burn my amp if I connected to it??
it give out allomst 14 v...13.45~13.55.
Wi`ll it burn my amp if I connected to it??
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