NE5534N best quality replacement?

Depends on what your intent is for this amp...

I'd have a go at the coupling caps to start... unless they are already good quality... if they are electrolytics, there are some nice low voltage mylars in small packages that are a better choice, imo...

Depending on what that input board looks like in real life, one could consider a replacement for it with a better balanced to single end circuit...

Otoh, just use it?

😀

_-_-bear
 
ask an engineer a question, get 2 "it depends" replies

depends on the environment, balanced source it is used with, if the "problems" are audible

and how much mod you are willing to do

really nice audio input Xfmr are pricey but hard to argue with the results
 
Doing duty right at the input you might find that a JFET input opamp sounds better, due to having better RFI immunity. Also it will allow (as jcx points out) choice of higher resistor values. If you're serious about getting the best sound, I'd add a decent common-mode choke to the balanced pair and also double check the wiring of pin1 of the XLR. It needs to go to chassis, not the PCB.

For a promising JFET input opamp (I've not listened to this) you could do worse than OPA827. OPA627 is its predecessor and has a sterling reputation for sound quality - fairly expensive though.
 
I bet that most of the recordings we know from the last 30+ years went through at least one 5534 during production - I mean mixdown and mastering. Some of the really high-end sonic parts in the production line like the Neumann, bfe or Lawo summing units use the NE5534AN, the one with the better noise specs, together with hi-Q transformers.
The NE5534N and the less noisy brother are definitely better sounding than the NE 5532 dual versions, which you will find in true professional circuits quite rarely.

Maybe I should try the AN version in that case, are there any downsides to go with the low noise or is it all positive?
 
Depends on what your intent is for this amp...

I'd have a go at the coupling caps to start... unless they are already good quality... if they are electrolytics, there are some nice low voltage mylars in small packages that are a better choice, imo...

Depending on what that input board looks like in real life, one could consider a replacement for it with a better balanced to single end circuit...

Otoh, just use it?

😀

_-_-bear

Good advice, thanks. I have just received a set of WIMA MKS polyester caps to do just that, the two in each signal path were electrolytics and it looks as though they are about 25 years old.
 
depends on the environment, balanced source it is used with, if the "problems" are audible

and how much mod you are willing to do

really nice audio input Xfmr are pricey but hard to argue with the results

This amp is being used in a domestic environment with an Audiolab CDQ. It does have sockets for transformer balanced i/ps, I take it that you rate them highly? Maybe I should look for some?
 
...btw, I resent being grouped in with "engineers"... 😛


_-_-


There is a "T" position, this bypasses the input circuit entirely - you can try whatever you want by connecting there! 😀

I think the T position is for the transformer coupled inputs. The is also a U position which (unsurprisingly) is the Unbalanced version which I am currently using. I suppose I could make an external circuit with a socket and try the different types, it's an idea!
 
Depends on what your intent is for this amp...

I'd have a go at the coupling caps to start... unless they are already good quality... if they are electrolytics, there are some nice low voltage mylars in small packages that are a better choice, imo...

Depending on what that input board looks like in real life, one could consider a replacement for it with a better balanced to single end circuit...

Otoh, just use it?

😀

_-_-bear

I intend using it for a domestic HiFi and have WIMA caps to swap. I have been using the amp and am very happy with the way it sounds so far. I think changing the caps and going to Balanced i/ps would improve it though.
 
I think it was D Self that found differences in those chips by different manufacturers especially in the THD department. If I remember correct he found the parts from TI superior to other manufacturers although it doesnt say anything about how they would sound.
 
I think the T position is for the transformer coupled inputs. The is also a U position which (unsurprisingly) is the Unbalanced version which I am currently using. I suppose I could make an external circuit with a socket and try the different types, it's an idea!

Does the amp have an integrated input transformer? If it has (which usually is a budget transformer) I believe it will not go down to 20-30Hz. Just be prepared for that.
 
My 3 cents:
1. 5534 and 5534 are quite different beasts.
2. 5534 is a nice opamp for audio applications where it was used, and I doubt some modern opamp can be better.
3. Usage of opamps in audio is like usage of tanks to deliver bread. They are both suboptimal for such purposes.

I guess you meant 5534 and 5532 are quite different? I would be very interested to know what the differences are.