Hey everyone, since InDIYana 2017 I've wanted to build a slightly bigger version of my Microfarads entry, the original thread is at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/306193-microfarads-nano-speaker-using-ps95-w5-2053-a.html
The main difference is more room to work with, internal volume is up to about 9 liters with available airspace to the W5 RBM sub at about 7liters.
I'll also be using a neat TangBand Passive Radiator Brian turned me on to that has a lot of excursion capability and should address another limitation I had with the Peerless 5" PRs I used on V1.
This is still a very small speaker with the bass capabilities of one 10" subwoofer easily (for the pair), and I really enjoy listening to the PS95-8, where it lacks in smooth treble too end it makes up for in coherence and integration.
First I started with the template to flush mount the PR's.
I built a simple frame around the PR, this will create the initial template which I'll use to make the final template. I measured the rounded corners of the frame and happily they were exactly 1/2", same as my spiral cut flush trim bit.
Quick test fit and it's perfect
Now to pattern onto a fresh piece with center markings
Finished
Next to do something with this gorgeous Mahogany...
Thanks!
Javad
The main difference is more room to work with, internal volume is up to about 9 liters with available airspace to the W5 RBM sub at about 7liters.
I'll also be using a neat TangBand Passive Radiator Brian turned me on to that has a lot of excursion capability and should address another limitation I had with the Peerless 5" PRs I used on V1.
This is still a very small speaker with the bass capabilities of one 10" subwoofer easily (for the pair), and I really enjoy listening to the PS95-8, where it lacks in smooth treble too end it makes up for in coherence and integration.
First I started with the template to flush mount the PR's.
I built a simple frame around the PR, this will create the initial template which I'll use to make the final template. I measured the rounded corners of the frame and happily they were exactly 1/2", same as my spiral cut flush trim bit.
Quick test fit and it's perfect
Now to pattern onto a fresh piece with center markings
Finished
Next to do something with this gorgeous Mahogany...
Thanks!
Javad
On to building the enclosure, I started by cutting all the mahogany pieces to size for the sides
Quick glue up
While those dried, I started on the midrange chamber, it's made from a 4 inch cardboard tube and a solid wood end cap that's rabbited to fit tightly in the tube. One advantage of having more room is a bigger mid chamber, which I believe will allow me to dampen the rear wave more effectively than I was able to in Version 1 which used a very small fiberglass cup on the back. It will be interesting to compare, however I believe I had some responses issues on V1 due to this:
The tube is then scalloped to allow it to fit within the tight constraints of the enclosure
Test fit, all is well
Next I added a flange for the removable back
This notch allows the W5 to be slid into the enclosure
Removable back cut and fit
Pilot holes for threaded inserts and hardware
5 mm threaded inserts
Stainless steel button head cap screws
Gluing in the middle chamber using Loctite construction adhesive (great stuff BTW)
I added this little brace which will also serve as another screw attachment point for the rear panel
Thanks!
Javad
Quick glue up
While those dried, I started on the midrange chamber, it's made from a 4 inch cardboard tube and a solid wood end cap that's rabbited to fit tightly in the tube. One advantage of having more room is a bigger mid chamber, which I believe will allow me to dampen the rear wave more effectively than I was able to in Version 1 which used a very small fiberglass cup on the back. It will be interesting to compare, however I believe I had some responses issues on V1 due to this:
The tube is then scalloped to allow it to fit within the tight constraints of the enclosure
Test fit, all is well
Next I added a flange for the removable back
This notch allows the W5 to be slid into the enclosure
Removable back cut and fit
Pilot holes for threaded inserts and hardware
5 mm threaded inserts
Stainless steel button head cap screws
Gluing in the middle chamber using Loctite construction adhesive (great stuff BTW)
I added this little brace which will also serve as another screw attachment point for the rear panel
Thanks!
Javad
Interesting built. Best of luck!
Thanks for following Mayuri =)
Massive tooling! Are you carpenter?
Thanks I supposed I am, but I don't make my living at it, just a hobby
Javad,
Will you be designing a passive XO or go active on this one?
Nice project btw.
Definitely passive to make a simple speaker solution , and thanks!
Snuck in the garage after everyone went to bed and got some good work done
This is what I started with
I added a threaded insert to the cross brace for additional strength and dampening of the rear removable panel
To add a little more clearance and wiggle room for the woofer, I rabbeted some clearance in the bottom panel, just to be safe
Now for some circle jig work, nice tip is to use some thick dense foam on your workbench when routering so you don't go through to your workbench, works well with double sided tapenade has a grippy surface.
Woofer cutout and mid recess and cutout
Rear breathing clearance for the mid
45d bevel for woofer rear-mount cutout
I took the opportunity to locate rear woofer screw holes while I had the room
Test fit
I removed the gasket from the back and am using it to seal the front, works well
Front panel located with 4 dowels
Did a quick sand with 120grit
Gluing on the front panel
Thanks!
Javad
This is what I started with
I added a threaded insert to the cross brace for additional strength and dampening of the rear removable panel
To add a little more clearance and wiggle room for the woofer, I rabbeted some clearance in the bottom panel, just to be safe
Now for some circle jig work, nice tip is to use some thick dense foam on your workbench when routering so you don't go through to your workbench, works well with double sided tapenade has a grippy surface.
Woofer cutout and mid recess and cutout
Rear breathing clearance for the mid
45d bevel for woofer rear-mount cutout
I took the opportunity to locate rear woofer screw holes while I had the room
Test fit
I removed the gasket from the back and am using it to seal the front, works well
Front panel located with 4 dowels
Did a quick sand with 120grit
Gluing on the front panel
Thanks!
Javad
Snuck in the garage after everyone went to bed and got some good work done
Hmm... you have any elves helping you out?
Hmm... you have any elves helping you out?
Hah, though I like the idea, you can't always trust an elf to make accurate cuts or do things exactly the way you'd like, fine for toys maybe
Little more detail As you can see these joints are seamless aside from the grain pattern, to do this very flat, square surfaces are required and high clamping force
Here on corners I sand them flat and square to ensure no gap can be left before the baffle is glued down
Glue applied before the front baffle is clamped down
Front baffle dry and ready for flush routering.
Thanks!
Javad
Here on corners I sand them flat and square to ensure no gap can be left before the baffle is glued down
Glue applied before the front baffle is clamped down
Front baffle dry and ready for flush routering.
Thanks!
Javad
Mayuri said:Very nice. What will you use for stuffing?
For the mid enclosure I'll be using cotton terry cloth discs from a towel, the woofer will get some poly fill and acoustic foam lining
Got a little work done tonight.
Here is where I started, time to flush cut the baffle
I'm in love with these large 1/2" spiral upcut bits since the Strafi build, they cut so smooth and accurately and the dual bearings are very smooth, highly recommended
Now for the passive radiators, I made a cardboard template for the center cutout, all templates are located and centered by the center of the PR in each direction
And a test fit of the flush mount template
Center cutout with the jig saw
The flush mount template is held in with double sided tape and flush cut with a 1/2" top bearing plunge bit
Next step is some roundovers and some sanding.
Thanks!
Javad
Here is where I started, time to flush cut the baffle
I'm in love with these large 1/2" spiral upcut bits since the Strafi build, they cut so smooth and accurately and the dual bearings are very smooth, highly recommended
Now for the passive radiators, I made a cardboard template for the center cutout, all templates are located and centered by the center of the PR in each direction
And a test fit of the flush mount template
Center cutout with the jig saw
The flush mount template is held in with double sided tape and flush cut with a 1/2" top bearing plunge bit
Next step is some roundovers and some sanding.
Thanks!
Javad
Next step is some roundovers and some sanding.
Thanks!
Javad
Coming together nicely!
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