ThanksLove this! Someone who judge by ear. Everybody wants 105 vs 85, more gold or expensive materials, bigger capacity in psu, better specs. Bigger, more, heavier en more expensive is always better to a lot of people in hifi. It's easier and gives certainy. But now and then somebody who can realy listen comes in with a complete contrary opinion.
Very nice PCB's by the way.
I think like you 🙂)) all need listen
All time when you build amps you need listen all
because all parts is change sound
And when you build Naim clones or others clones you not have original sound in end device but you have yours excellent amps made by yours hands 🙂)
for example, I was brought an amplifier made by me, which I sold to a client a few years ago
, the malfunction was caused by using an amplifier and a game console on the same table
, the contact inside the amplifier in one of the resistors disappeared from the vibrations of the console
since I no longer use the resistors that I installed a few years ago, the sound of the amplifier has changed after repair
but this does not mean that it got worse
, but in the end, after the repair, the amplifier sounded a little different
, but it is also my amplifier that I assembled
therefore, there is no need to chase after the "original sound", which could already be different due to the use of, for example, other parts at the Naim factory
All is a compromise in hifi. When you come to a certant level you win some and lose somthing else by changing parts. The perfect amp does not exist. But i like the simple well balanced designs most.
I just got this reply from Mundorf regarding capacitor construction vs temperature rating:
“sorry for the late reply, there were holidays in between.
The electrolyte is different between temperature ratings, that is true. But it must not be the same as it is in the KEMET’s . For a good result, the paper is important also.
We use a special paper/electrolyte combination which was chosen after listening tests. For now, we did no distortion comparison between the different electrolytes.
Kind Regards,
Sven”
“sorry for the late reply, there were holidays in between.
The electrolyte is different between temperature ratings, that is true. But it must not be the same as it is in the KEMET’s . For a good result, the paper is important also.
We use a special paper/electrolyte combination which was chosen after listening tests. For now, we did no distortion comparison between the different electrolytes.
Kind Regards,
Sven”
Good dayI just got this reply from Mundorf regarding capacitor construction vs temperature rating:
“sorry for the late reply, there were holidays in between.
The electrolyte is different between temperature ratings, that is true. But it must not be the same as it is in the KEMET’s . For a good result, the paper is important also.
We use a special paper/electrolyte combination which was chosen after listening tests. For now, we did no distortion comparison between the different electrolytes.
Kind Regards,
Sven”
Different series of one brand caps have different sound
Case and size of caps is same but fabric use different materials inside caps
Some like Nichicon KZ and muse series have different sound signature also Samwha SD and RD series have different sound signature too
SD and RD standard series but SD 85 degrees and RD 105 degrees
Hi, sorry to hijack the thread, does anybody have schematics and/or service manual for nap 110 and nac 22 preamp?
Thanks
Petr
Thanks
Petr
Good dayHi, sorry to hijack the thread, does anybody have schematics and/or service manual for nap 110 and nac 22 preamp?
Thanks
Petr
Nap
And NAC
Also if you have of original boards you need correct few resistors in nap and NAC schematics
Attachments
The first image above shows the same NAP250 (amplifier only) schematic you find all over the web, adopted by many clone kitsellers and also the basis of Avondale Audio versions like NCC200. NAP 110 is the precursor to NAP140. It's topology is quite similar but it has a much smaller, unregulated power supply with about +/- 30VDC rails. Also the bias and operating points of the input, VAS stages and a few other important features that affect sound quality are different. You won't find NAP110's real schematic on the net but you should be able to find the real NAP140 schematic which is similar, as are the products. I have seen it several times but lost it again when I updated my PC. Here's some general info. on early models plus some outdated DIY suggestions, so check it out with that in mind: http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/power_amps.html
BTW, you can casually say Naim's early models all follow the same circuit but actually they don't sound the same due to different operating points and component types. Cheap clone kits seldom sound anything like original models, simply because theyre' a soup of cheapest components that approximate the one NAP250 power board design (without regulation). They just ain't the same designs as advertised, nor do they get the same PSU or components. Together, these faults all detract from the original, desirable sound quality that I can only assume you were hoping to hear.
BTW, you can casually say Naim's early models all follow the same circuit but actually they don't sound the same due to different operating points and component types. Cheap clone kits seldom sound anything like original models, simply because theyre' a soup of cheapest components that approximate the one NAP250 power board design (without regulation). They just ain't the same designs as advertised, nor do they get the same PSU or components. Together, these faults all detract from the original, desirable sound quality that I can only assume you were hoping to hear.
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I just got a Nait3 which has the Nap90 as its base amp which is quite close to the Nap110, I can give details if needed.
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/The first image above shows the same NAP250 (amplifier only) schematic you find all over the web, adopted by many clone kitsellers and also the basis of Avondale Audio versions like NCC200. NAP 110 is the precursor to NAP140. It's topology is quite similar but it has a much smaller, unregulated power supply with about +/- 30VDC rails. Also the bias and operating points of the input, VAS stages and a few other important features that affect sound quality are different. You won't find NAP110's real schematic on the net but you should be able to find the real NAP140 schematic which is similar, as are the products. I have seen it several times but lost it again when I updated my PC. Here's some general info. on early models plus some outdated DIY suggestions, so check it out with that in mind: http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/power_amps.html
BTW, you can casually say Naim's early models all follow the same circuit but actually they don't sound the same due to different operating points and component types. Cheap clone kits seldom sound anything like original models, simply because theyre' a soup of cheapest components that approximate the one NAP250 power board design (without regulation). They just ain't the same designs as advertised, nor do they get the same PSU or components. Together, these faults all detract from the original, desirable sound quality that I can only assume you were hoping to hear.
Nap90 and NAP110 is different schematicsI just got a Nait3 which has the Nap90 as its base amp which is quite close to the Nap110, I can give details if needed.
Nap90 it’s Nait3 power amp schematic
NAP110 it’s nap160 power amp schematic
First attachment nap90
Second attachment NAP110
So if you check NAP110 photos you find all resistors nominals
Attachments
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110 and 140 is same schematic but different power supply rails also different output stage transistors and few RC circuits.The first image above shows the same NAP250 (amplifier only) schematic you find all over the web, adopted by many clone kitsellers and also the basis of Avondale Audio versions like NCC200. NAP 110 is the precursor to NAP140. It's topology is quite similar but it has a much smaller, unregulated power supply with about +/- 30VDC rails. Also the bias and operating points of the input, VAS stages and a few other important features that affect sound quality are different. You won't find NAP110's real schematic on the net but you should be able to find the real NAP140 schematic which is similar, as are the products. I have seen it several times but lost it again when I updated my PC. Here's some general info. on early models plus some outdated DIY suggestions, so check it out with that in mind: http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/naim/power_amps.html
BTW, you can casually say Naim's early models all follow the same circuit but actually they don't sound the same due to different operating points and component types. Cheap clone kits seldom sound anything like original models, simply because theyre' a soup of cheapest components that approximate the one NAP250 power board design (without regulation). They just ain't the same designs as advertised, nor do they get the same PSU or components. Together, these faults all detract from the original, desirable sound quality that I can only assume you were hoping to hear.
My former system 110+42 in attachment
Attachments
would you be able to make me a framed close-up photo with good lighting of the Nap90 please?Nap90 and NAP110 is different schematics
Nap90 it’s Nait3 power amp schematic
NAP110 it’s nap160 power amp schematic
First attachment nap90
Second attachment NAP110
So if you check NAP110 photos you find all resistors nominals
It's for my database.
Good day I not have nap90 but I have internal photos from internetwould you be able to make me a framed close-up photo with good lighting of the Nap90 please?
It's for my database.
Amp boards Nait3 and nap90 little different but schematic is same
Attachments
same state of my Nait3
I have a doubt about the origin of this pcb, the color is strange, the resistors are disturbed, it looks "messy"
I have a doubt about the origin of this pcb, the color is strange, the resistors are disturbed, it looks "messy"
Please make photo of your Nait3 boardsame state of my Nait3
I have a doubt about the origin of this pcb, the color is strange, the resistors are disturbed, it looks "messy"
Great pics but ....Oh dear, it looks like a DIY with a blowtorch got to it first. Is either channel working now? It must have had the usual driver failure followed by a VAS transistor, like so many NAP90 before. It also seems the substitute/replacement power transistors were/are still a problem. I can only guess this amp was overdriven into low impedance speakers and then...who knows? Fire and smoke!
As I understand, BD743 has been suggested by Naim techs as a possible replacement for a Nait but it likely doesn't have the ability to power a NAP90. I think you would need need something as tough as genuine NA005 or possibly BD911, if used carefully.
This thread may be helpful as it takes you down the same path: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/replacement-transistors-naim-nap90.223053/
As I understand, BD743 has been suggested by Naim techs as a possible replacement for a Nait but it likely doesn't have the ability to power a NAP90. I think you would need need something as tough as genuine NA005 or possibly BD911, if used carefully.
This thread may be helpful as it takes you down the same path: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/replacement-transistors-naim-nap90.223053/
Can TIP35C/TIP36C be squeezed in?
https://www.jaycar.com.au/tip35c-np...os=2&queryId=8c02d8dfc1a504e32583789d8b21746f
https://www.jaycar.com.au/tip36c-pnp-transistor/p/ZT2294
https://www.jaycar.com.au/tip35c-np...os=2&queryId=8c02d8dfc1a504e32583789d8b21746f
https://www.jaycar.com.au/tip36c-pnp-transistor/p/ZT2294
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TIP 35/36 are really the wrong type of power transistor for class AB audio amplifiers. However, a similar size package (TO247) version of Onsemi's audio transistors, such as NJW3281, might be workable and sound fine but the PCB would need surgery for either TO247, older TO218 or even the older TOP3 package you show above.
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