Good morning.
A few months ago I took possession of a Naim nap 110 which has undergone maintenance over the years.
The photo shows its interior with tabs.
One channel has original transistors, while the other has 2N-3055s which are similar to the MJ15003s (RECOMMENDED) but not the same. I would like to replace them with two MJ15003s to start with.
The capacitors that were originally all tantalum are now electrolytic in many parts. I would like to put them back in their place.
How about?
Do you know the exact values of tantalum capacitors?
Other advice will be appreciated.
I would like to clarify that currently the final also plays discreetly and on for hours.
Only the idea of bringing it back to a more original standard
makes me calmer.
Greetings
A few months ago I took possession of a Naim nap 110 which has undergone maintenance over the years.
The photo shows its interior with tabs.
One channel has original transistors, while the other has 2N-3055s which are similar to the MJ15003s (RECOMMENDED) but not the same. I would like to replace them with two MJ15003s to start with.
The capacitors that were originally all tantalum are now electrolytic in many parts. I would like to put them back in their place.
How about?
Do you know the exact values of tantalum capacitors?
Other advice will be appreciated.
I would like to clarify that currently the final also plays discreetly and on for hours.
Only the idea of bringing it back to a more original standard
makes me calmer.
Greetings
Attachments
Good day
Dear Aasroma
Please make photo of each boards and attach
also you can not find original old tantalum caps because they is not production.
in attachment photos original old blue and yellow caps
Now time In services centres for repair or recapping use is Kemet tantalum caps. input stage 10uf 35v. Feedback stage 47uf 16v. Voltage amp stage 47uf 16v. Current limiter stage 10uf 35v
Dear Aasroma
Please make photo of each boards and attach
also you can not find original old tantalum caps because they is not production.
in attachment photos original old blue and yellow caps
Now time In services centres for repair or recapping use is Kemet tantalum caps. input stage 10uf 35v. Feedback stage 47uf 16v. Voltage amp stage 47uf 16v. Current limiter stage 10uf 35v
Attachments
Last edited:
When I had of naim Nap110 amp
inside output transistors used be BDY56
@asroma you need try buy original na002 transistors in original service centres you need just two qty
) for replacement
Last edited:
The designer, Julian Vereker, commented in interviews, on the choice of the type of power transistors used in early models including NAP110. In a nutshell, he put a lot of effort into avoiding old and sluggish power transistors which weren't able to switch at crossover as cleanly as the switching variety, despite the fact their overall linearity wasn't as good. 2N3055 is still a slug in that class as are some other old TO3 audio transistors that are fine for PA and instrument amps but not Quasi-comp. hifi.
So, in another nutshell, don't waste time and money on sluggish power transistors. Use the suggested faster switching types above or change to modern plastic types like Sanken LAPTs as Naim have used universally in NAP models since the "chrome bumper" series from the 1980s or use cheapo 2SC5200/2SA1943 even. Take care with stability, oscillation and compensation though. You will need to do that in any situation where power transistors and/or drivers are altered, because you probably don't need a PCB fire or smoking transistors. Don't forget the correct drivers either - not those DIY kit TIP41/42 slugs usually supplied,
if you expect decent audio.
So, in another nutshell, don't waste time and money on sluggish power transistors. Use the suggested faster switching types above or change to modern plastic types like Sanken LAPTs as Naim have used universally in NAP models since the "chrome bumper" series from the 1980s or use cheapo 2SC5200/2SA1943 even. Take care with stability, oscillation and compensation though. You will need to do that in any situation where power transistors and/or drivers are altered, because you probably don't need a PCB fire or smoking transistors. Don't forget the correct drivers either - not those DIY kit TIP41/42 slugs usually supplied,
if you expect decent audio.
Last edited:
Naim use to have the o/p transistors made for them by Semelab/Magnatec in the uk and they were labelled NA002 but I dont know if they still do. I believe they were selected BDY56's. Im told
MJ15003's are the closest now as the BDY56 is obsolete and there are lots of fake ones about.
Originally the tantalums were made by Roederstein. In my day they were often replaced with Philips solid aluminium (type 156?).
MJ15003's are the closest now as the BDY56 is obsolete and there are lots of fake ones about.
Originally the tantalums were made by Roederstein. In my day they were often replaced with Philips solid aluminium (type 156?).
Yes, that's been the advice for some years now. As the amp has apparently been professionally refurbished and updated with those house-coded NA002 transistors, we could expect that what's inside the can is like BDY56 or 58. Only an authorised Naim service agent would be able to help with original NA002 parts, charged as part of a repair fee because you can't buy them unless counterfeit or stolen. BTW, MJ15003 isn't a switching type or much faster than 2N3055 either.
It would be interesting to know who blew this poor thing up after pouring so much money into it. I'm puzzled why anyone would try to repair it with junksistors like 2N3055 though. Perhaps it was a final gesture of disgust or a cheap way to sell it off as (kind of) working and let the next poor guy work out why it sounds so bad or overheats and fails again.
Check this confirming PFM forum advice if you can access the site: https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/na002-transistor.158776/
It would be interesting to know who blew this poor thing up after pouring so much money into it. I'm puzzled why anyone would try to repair it with junksistors like 2N3055 though. Perhaps it was a final gesture of disgust or a cheap way to sell it off as (kind of) working and let the next poor guy work out why it sounds so bad or overheats and fails again.
Check this confirming PFM forum advice if you can access the site: https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/threads/na002-transistor.158776/
Last edited:
I am one of those who think that as for the tubes, letting the TO3s of that time go in the trash is very regrettable and that one day we will, as for the tubes, regret it.
how many times have I heard around me say "I had triodes/pentodes/power tetrodes years ago and I gave it all or threw it away and if I had them now..."
I store all the transistors I can as long as I can and it costs nothing because the world is changing very quickly and even faster and faster and soon there will be nothing left available, I already have enough have fun until I die.
how many times have I heard around me say "I had triodes/pentodes/power tetrodes years ago and I gave it all or threw it away and if I had them now..."
I store all the transistors I can as long as I can and it costs nothing because the world is changing very quickly and even faster and faster and soon there will be nothing left available, I already have enough have fun until I die.
Good day I try Mundorf and this is not Naim sound for repair caps need Kendeil 10000uf 40v or Kemet ALC 10000uf 40v but Kendeil better for true naim sound
Attachments
Good day Huggy
this is PCB made in factory. Need wait about 25 days for made and shipping to me. Cost for this design same with cost for two layers and all masks and silk screen and all metal holes
)but some time (if I need small boards) I ask my friend Valeriy to make board on CNC engraving
) (photo in attachment) this way is very fast but need more time for soldering and remove not used CU areas after CNC drill working )Also if you get CNC boards you have chance to use different solder
Attachments
Last edited: