well i think its better than the original, but that is my opinion
IT is certainly brighter, better treble top end
I fully expect it to be better, do you have other amps to compare against? Which speakers?
dave
dave
I just started out upgrading and recapping my NAD 3020. Yours looks great btw 🙂
Can you tell me were you got those new speaker terminals? Looking everywhere for them.
Thank you for your answer. I looked at their site but cant find them. Do you have a link for me maybe?
Cliff have distributors in near 50 countries - where are you located? If you are actually in the UK, you have several sources, both retail and trade. If you are buying only one replacement set of connectors, you probably won't get a reply from trade distributors or Cliff themselves since the products are now imported from the east and likely shipped direct to distributors or end users, if the volume warrants it.
The Avnet group (i.e. Farnell, Element 14, Newark, RS or whatever their latest renaming is) have been retailing Cliff products for near as long as they've been in the manufacturing business. I'd look at Farnell's UK website first - plenty of Cliff speaker terminals there.
The Avnet group (i.e. Farnell, Element 14, Newark, RS or whatever their latest renaming is) have been retailing Cliff products for near as long as they've been in the manufacturing business. I'd look at Farnell's UK website first - plenty of Cliff speaker terminals there.
so all finished
I tested a standard 3130 this morning and found it started to hum at around 100ma of current, and didnt want to take it any further , they heat up pretty quick at this value, so i am assuming its a design thing, a standard amp would only be run between 26-30mv across the 1 ohm
anyway so i settled for a non audible 45ma of current and put in fixed resistors instead of the trimmers
so it sounds realy good and im going to swap it over with my current amp (the 3020 soft clip mod we did) to enjoy it for a while
The soft slip conversion always had a buzz on one channel so i need to find that
so there you go all done and back together with a new set of feet on the base 👍
I tested a standard 3130 this morning and found it started to hum at around 100ma of current, and didnt want to take it any further , they heat up pretty quick at this value, so i am assuming its a design thing, a standard amp would only be run between 26-30mv across the 1 ohm
anyway so i settled for a non audible 45ma of current and put in fixed resistors instead of the trimmers
so it sounds realy good and im going to swap it over with my current amp (the 3020 soft clip mod we did) to enjoy it for a while
The soft slip conversion always had a buzz on one channel so i need to find that
so there you go all done and back together with a new set of feet on the base 👍
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Well its looking really good 👍
I loose track of where you are up to with all these, so is this one a FET conversion or standard bjt? Those look like new FET's in the images.
A standard NAD that hums if the bias current is turned up suggests perhaps poor PSRR (poor power supply rejection ratio) and that ripple on the rails, which will increase at higher bias currents, its getting into the audio chain somewhere.
I loose track of where you are up to with all these, so is this one a FET conversion or standard bjt? Those look like new FET's in the images.
A standard NAD that hums if the bias current is turned up suggests perhaps poor PSRR (poor power supply rejection ratio) and that ripple on the rails, which will increase at higher bias currents, its getting into the audio chain somewhere.
That's my experience also. It's caused by the recap. I recapped all elcos in my NAD3020 and replaced all elcos in the range from 0,68 uF to 4,7 uF with WIMA MKS Types (the small red ones). All elcos are new Panasonic FC now.
I measured the frequency response with the RMAA program before and after the recap. The green line is the new result.
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so today i have done some sound tesing with this amp against a standard one
both amps set in 8ohm
so all settings were with flat tone volume at about 20% rising to half after about 15mins, and im sure the standard one starts to 'tire'
The standard one gets quite warm and the current is srt midpoint between its recommended levels
The FET one deosnt even realy warm up, and the clarity 'stays' regardless of time
could the BJT'S performance reduce the hotter they get?
both amps set in 8ohm
so all settings were with flat tone volume at about 20% rising to half after about 15mins, and im sure the standard one starts to 'tire'
The standard one gets quite warm and the current is srt midpoint between its recommended levels
The FET one deosnt even realy warm up, and the clarity 'stays' regardless of time
could the BJT'S performance reduce the hotter they get?
I would have to say no to that. I suspect you are just experiencing some form of 'listener fatigue' as much as anything and with you having heard the laterals you are perhaps subconsciously dismissing the bjt version. The FET one sounds better, you know it sounds better and so the bjt becomes one you don;t want to listen to any more.
The effect known as 'listener expectation' is very very real and a perennial problem in cases like this. I'm sure in reality the FET version really does win out but it can be very difficult sometimes being objective about it.
The effect known as 'listener expectation' is very very real and a perennial problem in cases like this. I'm sure in reality the FET version really does win out but it can be very difficult sometimes being objective about it.
I am recapping a NAD 3020 Series 20 as the amp in this topic and having some trouble with he capacitor values.
I bought a recapping kit from eBay particular for de 3020 Series 20.
The first problem I did encounter was replacing C531. The value I pulled out of the amp was 47uf100v. In the kit the highest available voltage is 63v. C531 isn't mentioned in the service manual.
The second problem I encountered was replacing C911 and C912. The values in the amp are 10uf50v. The service manual says C911 is 47uf35v and c912 is 4.7uf35v. In the kit the values according to the service manual are there. The 10uf35v are not.
So I am kinda lost here. Why are the values in my amp not according the service manual.
@poundy can you give me the values of C531, C911 and C912 you replaced in your amp?
Thank you in advance!
I bought a recapping kit from eBay particular for de 3020 Series 20.
The first problem I did encounter was replacing C531. The value I pulled out of the amp was 47uf100v. In the kit the highest available voltage is 63v. C531 isn't mentioned in the service manual.
The second problem I encountered was replacing C911 and C912. The values in the amp are 10uf50v. The service manual says C911 is 47uf35v and c912 is 4.7uf35v. In the kit the values according to the service manual are there. The 10uf35v are not.
So I am kinda lost here. Why are the values in my amp not according the service manual.
@poundy can you give me the values of C531, C911 and C912 you replaced in your amp?
Thank you in advance!
Its fine if its higher than the original
dont trust the drawings as none of them are 100% acurate.
If in doubt just put a higher voltage in, just make sure the ripple is correct if in the audio path
what is the make of the cap kit you brought as there is some real cheap rubbish on there
I only ever use wurth,panasonic or rubicon caps personaly as there is alot of fakes on ebay, i never buy from there
C911 and C912 I use 50v 47uf, same with the filter caps for both supplies,(2200uf and 330uf-regulated) i always uprate to 50v, they will just last longer
C531/514 i use 100v
I never re cap an amp in its entirity unless it is justified, but do now always replace the ones that are under most stress as well as the filters
dont trust the drawings as none of them are 100% acurate.
If in doubt just put a higher voltage in, just make sure the ripple is correct if in the audio path
what is the make of the cap kit you brought as there is some real cheap rubbish on there
I only ever use wurth,panasonic or rubicon caps personaly as there is alot of fakes on ebay, i never buy from there
C911 and C912 I use 50v 47uf, same with the filter caps for both supplies,(2200uf and 330uf-regulated) i always uprate to 50v, they will just last longer
C531/514 i use 100v
I never re cap an amp in its entirity unless it is justified, but do now always replace the ones that are under most stress as well as the filters
I think C531 is in a muting circuit and is indeed rated too low in the original diagram. 100V is better / needed in this case.
Thank you for your answer. The kit I bought are Panasonic FR or FC capacitors.
Most of them have a higher voltage then the original. Only for C531 I dont have a 100v.
Did some searching and some state that 63v is good enough, others 100v.
I will order a 100v one just to be sure.
Most of them have a higher voltage then the original. Only for C531 I dont have a 100v.
Did some searching and some state that 63v is good enough, others 100v.
I will order a 100v one just to be sure.
@poundy, can you please help again.
Can you tell me the values of the capacitors on the picture marked with yellow circles?
I cant read the values on the board very well. I pulled 10uf caps out of the bottom yellow circle but dont have enough 10uf caps in the kit. So I am guessing 10uf isnt the original value.
Thanks in advance.
Can you tell me the values of the capacitors on the picture marked with yellow circles?
I cant read the values on the board very well. I pulled 10uf caps out of the bottom yellow circle but dont have enough 10uf caps in the kit. So I am guessing 10uf isnt the original value.
Thanks in advance.
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