Guys, thanks for beeing so helpfull.
It is indeed ridiculous and very confusing.
The problem I ran against is that some of caps I pulled of the board are different values then the diagram I use.
Like C401 and C402. They are 10uf in my board. On none of the diagrams they are that value.
Also C911 and C912 are 10uf values in my amp.
The kit only came with three 10uf caps and two of them are now used for C421 and C422 like on the schematics Mooly shared.
It is indeed ridiculous and very confusing.
The problem I ran against is that some of caps I pulled of the board are different values then the diagram I use.
Like C401 and C402. They are 10uf in my board. On none of the diagrams they are that value.
Also C911 and C912 are 10uf values in my amp.
The kit only came with three 10uf caps and two of them are now used for C421 and C422 like on the schematics Mooly shared.
That is the big problem. It always pays to look at exactly what is fitted and order that value. When replacing do them one at a time, like for like and not just remove them all in one go first.
little tip, bend your legs over a little rather than leaving them straight up, it helps to make the cap more secure on the board
I discovered some cracks on the top of the board at the place were they tinned the traces... guess that is the reason they tinned the traces there.
Prob with the amp is the chassis, you can twist it, and you might notice some amps wobble with the base plate on. That's because you must put the middle 2 screws in first then the corners, but don't tighten up untill all are just tightened. So what happens is people twist the chassis with the base plate attached, and this will correct the shape, but an then crack the pcb
