As high as you could 🙂 I took a pair of big caps from an old PSU. Be aware that they may only be rated at 5v, so they keep a good ratio of size/capacitance. So, I used something like 2x 12.000uF in parallel, and each one was the size of half a cigarrette. Just a thumb rule, take any "big" cap from an old psu/computer/electronics and you're done. Switching PSUs use to have tons of them inside.
squalor;2981442 This is the first time I built without a printed circuit. I hoped someone could comment on the pic of my solder joints but realize now the pic is too grainy. I will remove 499R and try to post a clearer pic.[/QUOTE said:
A few questions please. Does the Pin1 dot on LM338 correspond to IN on the schematic ? Does the arrow and line on D1 indicate the direction the stripe on the diode goes ?
diode orientation:
The bar on the diode corresponds to the bar on the symbol and also indicates the - sign/side of the diode.
The arrow of the symbol indicates conventional current flow. The bar will be towards -ve for current to flow.
The bar on the diode corresponds to the bar on the symbol and also indicates the - sign/side of the diode.
The arrow of the symbol indicates conventional current flow. The bar will be towards -ve for current to flow.
Yes.
Regarding LM3386 pinout, you can check it out on the datasheet, first page:
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm138.pdf
The idea here was to take Buzz's question about mounting the FE parallel to a heat sink. I thought a single HS on the back of a chassis a good and economical possibility with one bend for the floor and front, and a double bend for a sides and top cover. All of these ideas are based on the widest offering from Heatsink USA.
Unfortunately. this would require removing several HS fins to accommodate mounting RCA, speaker posts and AC socket.
Problem is:without a lot of pin bending a transfer block or "L" has to be used. That needs to be placed at the same location as the removed fins
It would be possible to add a rear plate wide enough to allow inputs on either/both sides of the HS, but that would kill the concept of simplicity.
Rotating the transfer block or using the "L" would work, but only if side mounted on the chassis.
A double standard FE mounting with boards touching is 0.2" wider than this HS
So its back to a more traditional idea. This one is similar to the FE monoblocks I built.
The two HS pieces could be surface mounted or back could have cut out for direct mounting of the LM3886.
.....as done with the MBs.
This is the design I might try... as it retains the simplicity of only two bends on two pieces of stock aluminum.
Here is the two unit concept mentioned earlier.
Might as well use a standard stock case and perpendicular mounting like Dario and others have.
So, this was an enjoyable experiment - but no Gold Medal
😉
Unfortunately. this would require removing several HS fins to accommodate mounting RCA, speaker posts and AC socket.
Problem is:without a lot of pin bending a transfer block or "L" has to be used. That needs to be placed at the same location as the removed fins
It would be possible to add a rear plate wide enough to allow inputs on either/both sides of the HS, but that would kill the concept of simplicity.
Rotating the transfer block or using the "L" would work, but only if side mounted on the chassis.
A double standard FE mounting with boards touching is 0.2" wider than this HS
So its back to a more traditional idea. This one is similar to the FE monoblocks I built.
The two HS pieces could be surface mounted or back could have cut out for direct mounting of the LM3886.
.....as done with the MBs.
This is the design I might try... as it retains the simplicity of only two bends on two pieces of stock aluminum.
Here is the two unit concept mentioned earlier.
Might as well use a standard stock case and perpendicular mounting like Dario and others have.
So, this was an enjoyable experiment - but no Gold Medal
😉- Status
- Not open for further replies.