Hi Roberto,
OK
Unless you have an oscilloscope, no.
You can buy one from RS Components.
Yes
OK
Unless you have an oscilloscope, no.
You can buy one from RS Components.
Yes
Roberto et All,
I don't know if it could be your problem, but I hope so - it would be much simpler. I just found a mis-shipment from Mouser. The envelope marked R-21 had a 221K and a 2.4 K. I try to check everything but I noticed the different color codes as soon as I opened it. I believe Dario's pics at the beginning of this thread should be used as a guide.
I could have very easily installed the wrong value. So measure all you can and don't trust the writing on a label.
I don't know if it could be your problem, but I hope so - it would be much simpler. I just found a mis-shipment from Mouser. The envelope marked R-21 had a 221K and a 2.4 K. I try to check everything but I noticed the different color codes as soon as I opened it. I believe Dario's pics at the beginning of this thread should be used as a guide.
I could have very easily installed the wrong value. So measure all you can and don't trust the writing on a label.
Bob, i had the same problem with different resistor values and the DC protection not starting. From now i will check my values before soldering.
of course, music is playing 😛
I started winding today, it took me 5 hours to finish it and connect it to the mains, this is my first time building a transformer : )
I started winding today, it took me 5 hours to finish it and connect it to the mains, this is my first time building a transformer : )
It made me too busy today, I did not go to work ; )
It was not easy thu, I had to wind 652 for the primary! My head is glowing @ the moment : )
It was not easy thu, I had to wind 652 for the primary! My head is glowing @ the moment : )
Relays and LEDs on first power up.
DC offset < 2 mV both sides.
14.55, -14.5 @ C102,C202
Early impression, very detailed, dynamic, very clear.
Before you guys try to politely explain the correct direction for a heatsink, let me explain that my final application of these boards will be mounted vertically on the back of each speaker. In this photo, the test board is tilted about 45 degrees and they seem to run cool enough.
One other caveat. My system runs a feedback subwoofer with an active cutoff at about 100 Hz. I won't have any comments on bass because the sub handles that. In fact, because the FE's have a higher gain than the sub was originally designed for, I actually lost a touch of bass level. I'll clean that up in the next (balanced) version of the subwoofer board.
DC offset < 2 mV both sides.
14.55, -14.5 @ C102,C202
Early impression, very detailed, dynamic, very clear.
Before you guys try to politely explain the correct direction for a heatsink, let me explain that my final application of these boards will be mounted vertically on the back of each speaker. In this photo, the test board is tilted about 45 degrees and they seem to run cool enough.
One other caveat. My system runs a feedback subwoofer with an active cutoff at about 100 Hz. I won't have any comments on bass because the sub handles that. In fact, because the FE's have a higher gain than the sub was originally designed for, I actually lost a touch of bass level. I'll clean that up in the next (balanced) version of the subwoofer board.
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I thought you were close - my left ear was twitching. Congratulations !😀
What size transformer are you using? Can you give a little more info in your system. I'm not clear on the connections.
What size transformer are you using? Can you give a little more info in your system. I'm not clear on the connections.
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Smiling all the way!
Very nice. The mid-bass filled in quite nicely with some burn-in. This is a nice combination of detail and full sound. YeeHaa!
I don't have anything really good to compare it to, but so far this is clearly the best my system has ever sounded.
Someone asked for a brief description of each system. Mine is a satellite/subwoofer system. The satellite's are DIY using Dynaudio tweeter and mid-bass. These are powered by the FE. The subwoofer uses an accelerometer for a closed loop feedback and is powered by a Randy Slone 500 Watt amp. The subwoofer amp has an active crossover that splits the sub and satellite signals at line level.
Volume is currently controlled by a bare pot controlling a signal from a Yulong D18 DAC. The DAC is fed by a Squeezebox Touch that gets music at 16 bit/44k Hz by wireless from my computer and an external hard drive.
I would describe the sound of the system as a focused image, somewhat forward sound. That is probably quite different from Bob's Sunflower's which I assume gives a big image, omni speaker feel. It is quite an accomplishment that the FE seems to work very well with a wide variety of speaker types.
Very nice. The mid-bass filled in quite nicely with some burn-in. This is a nice combination of detail and full sound. YeeHaa!
I don't have anything really good to compare it to, but so far this is clearly the best my system has ever sounded.
Someone asked for a brief description of each system. Mine is a satellite/subwoofer system. The satellite's are DIY using Dynaudio tweeter and mid-bass. These are powered by the FE. The subwoofer uses an accelerometer for a closed loop feedback and is powered by a Randy Slone 500 Watt amp. The subwoofer amp has an active crossover that splits the sub and satellite signals at line level.
Volume is currently controlled by a bare pot controlling a signal from a Yulong D18 DAC. The DAC is fed by a Squeezebox Touch that gets music at 16 bit/44k Hz by wireless from my computer and an external hard drive.
I would describe the sound of the system as a focused image, somewhat forward sound. That is probably quite different from Bob's Sunflower's which I assume gives a big image, omni speaker feel. It is quite an accomplishment that the FE seems to work very well with a wide variety of speaker types.
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