my boards are 1.72. I assembled everything but I only get very low sound from the speakers. Very low!
I checked voltages as indicated on the boards and they seemed all ok with the exception of the the voltage across R101/201 where I have 0.95 volts in stead of 1.25.
Thank you in advance for any help/suggestion.
I checked voltages as indicated on the boards and they seemed all ok with the exception of the the voltage across R101/201 where I have 0.95 volts in stead of 1.25.
Thank you in advance for any help/suggestion.
This is absolutely not normal...that voltage is set directly from the LM317, something gone really wrong.
Please post macro pictures of your boards.
Too hot for soldering, so... I'm doing everything else.-Question, can LM317T be replaced with LM317T/LF01?
-If no can it be replaced with LM317T from STMicroelectronics?
https://www.digikey.fi/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/LM317T/591677
Component shortage, even alternative LM317T/NOPB is out of stock from mouser..
-If no can it be replaced with LM317T from STMicroelectronics?
https://www.digikey.fi/en/products/detail/stmicroelectronics/LM317T/591677
Component shortage, even alternative LM317T/NOPB is out of stock from mouser..
I actually ordered LM317AT from texas instruments, which seemed to have same spec to my amateur knowledge, if it is completely wrong.. well ill order again i guess.
Hello there, I finished to populate my boards and modified a little bit my disipante 3U case to mount properly the LM3886, but I have to many questions to go forward, the first one to complete the board is I would like to know if this the correct position for this capacitor and also for the zfoil but I think for the resistor is too late saw a picture in the build guide and followed them.Also for the hook wire is the mogami 2944 still the recommended one.
Attachments
Looks like this post are halt but need some help from Dario or anyone (I know EE are very busy, sorry to bother you guys) but in the previous post I was asking if that was the correct way to solder that capacitor, that is the last part to light my amp and for the money and time invested in it want to do it the right way again I understand it is cumbersome for you to help a person like me with limited electronics knowledge.Thanks in advance
Sadly I can't help with CMR's direction since they're not labelled accordingly, luckily they don't differ much so you can mount any way you want.
But if you want to take advantage of the best direction (and there is a difference) you can mount them using 2.5mm fastons and find the best direction for each channel by ear.
Faston Tab (571-1742428-1)
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IMHO, after the several builds I've done on this amp, I doubt you'll hear any difference with regard to orientation of this CMR cap. The MR variation of the ClarityCap didn't have an inside/outside foil formation but I can't find info on the CMR variation. I think you make a bigger impact on how this amp sounds by what you mount at C9 if sticking with the LM318 opamp. Nothing else I've built even comes close to the sound from this rework of the original Mauro's My_Ref especially since you've used the audiophile parts.
Cheers,
Pete
No, I tried to get rid of them for years, an amp with the more recent suggestions will sound much more natural and relaxed.
Never tried them so I don't have any clue.
Yes, as Dario had pointed out, the cicuit will not work with OPA828 and C32 150pF.
either change that cap to 68pF-75pF (two pieces of 150pF in series)
Or just try to cut that trace between C12 (220pF input cap) and the -Inp of the opamp (Pin2 of the OPA828)
place there a cca 1kohm resistance in series, as it is shown in the attach.
Now the original 150pF cap can be kept, it should work (don't forget about the 5pF direct compensation cap between that same pin2 and pin6 of the OPA828)
And the elimination of the original compensation elements etc.
either change that cap to 68pF-75pF (two pieces of 150pF in series)
Or just try to cut that trace between C12 (220pF input cap) and the -Inp of the opamp (Pin2 of the OPA828)
place there a cca 1kohm resistance in series, as it is shown in the attach.
Now the original 150pF cap can be kept, it should work (don't forget about the 5pF direct compensation cap between that same pin2 and pin6 of the OPA828)
And the elimination of the original compensation elements etc.