They're fine initial values.
They will probably lower in a few hours of use.
BTW if they stay as they are you're fine too.
🙂
Thanks 🙂
Do, every comparison with other amps is welcome.
Bob reviews let us all think the FEs is the best amp in the world... 😀
Very well!
I'm happy you like it.
Yes
Thank you for advice! Do you mean it is better to start the upgrade with C101/102? And another question. Locally we have Mundorf AG GO, not the AG MPLI is there difference?
The sound source also needs some attention. Very probably a new DAC will be built for this amplifier.
I will be away in July. Plan to resume tuning in a month time.
Congratulations! I understand you have audiophyle components from the beginning. It must be very rewarding!
Yes , I liked it.
I think I need to do some mods to rest of my system (dac also) to get better sound.
Mundorf must be really good choice. No compromise mate 😀
I think I need to do some mods to rest of my system (dac also) to get better sound.
Mundorf must be really good choice. No compromise mate 😀
IMHO, no.
Other parts comes first like the three Amtrans, KP1834 in C7, Riken in R10, Silmic II (no ROHS version)/BG FK in C9, a good cap in C13.
After all those changes you gained the full transparence that let you fully appreciate the Mundorfs... 😉
MLGO means Glue-On, they're the right ones, MPLI is the old series.
It happened to me with the first My_ref I've built, it has been a catalyst that made me mod my whole system.
At the moment I'm kidding modding DAC9 by Weilang:
It's really good as it comes from eBay but some careful mods are needed.
The thing I love about it is the really well regulated PS (analog one is also a discrete series reg!)
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When asked, I always report that the M AGs and something special at C13 have made the most obvious improvements in the entire family of MyRefs - in my systems. The other mods are certainly necessary to get the best from the FEs, but I didn't take as logical an approach as Dario just outlined. For sure follow his lead, but hopefully some better power caps will be in your final build.
While people are thinking about C13 and nice sounding signal caps, I was curious about some other options. I'm sure the Clarity MR is nice and look forward to Dario's review.
Has anyone tried the Jupiter caps? They seem to get good ratings and have a lot of detail and soundstage for a paper-in-wax. They are a little pricey, especially in values suited to C13. At least they would fit on the board.
How about Jensen or Amp Ohm? Those are both too big for the board but seem attractive.
Anybody try a VCap teflon on a MyRef C13?
At the moment, my favorite remains the K75-10 with bypass, but that doesn't fit either.
Jac
They sure would, for they are easiest to get locally. And the suitable suppliers of Amtrans and others are yet to be found.
But, I am much inclined to start with the source. To build a DAC with good reputation.
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On my side I have tried several caps including the ClarityCAP MR which I love. Tried the Mundorf S/G/O and hated them... I found they added some kind of veil but maybe I did not give them enough burn in time. Auricap are good as well but not as transparent as the ClarityCAP MR. I also like the Obbligato Gold Premium, for the price it cannot be beat as far as SQ.
Maybe using a good quality/price cap with a Vcap Teflon bypass of .01uF could be an alternative as well.
Do
Thanks Do. Now I am really looking forward to Dario's comments on the MR. I thought about trying them in another value for an active filter, but ended up going with the TC's. I may have to give that another think.
Jac
Jac
I wonder if the switch can be omitted alltogether. A few times I met recommendations regarding the amplifier
6moons audio reviews: Audiosector Patek SE
This is probably for the PS capacitors? May be someone could comment?
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Its not my oppinion. I'd very much like to verify if it concerns My_Ref.
I think the idle consumption would not be large. May be someone measured?
The chipamp is a ClassAB where the bias current setting is locked inside the package.
The idle dissipation is what it is, you cannot change it. Call it 70mA @ 70V and you have ~5W. That is what heats up the chip, even with a muted/shorted input.
Add on the losses in the PSU. That 10W guess is probably pretty close.
100Hrs @ 10W = 1kWhr = ~12pence (UK) or about 3p/day
Is smps and ClassD going to save the world?
The idle dissipation is what it is, you cannot change it. Call it 70mA @ 70V and you have ~5W. That is what heats up the chip, even with a muted/shorted input.
Add on the losses in the PSU. That 10W guess is probably pretty close.
100Hrs @ 10W = 1kWhr = ~12pence (UK) or about 3p/day
Is smps and ClassD going to save the world?
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Any explanations on why it is recommended to keep amp permanently on? Please. Is it because of self induction throws on power on/of, or to keep PS caps in shape, or other reasons?
While it's true that the amp sounds a bit better after 20-30 minutes I wouldn't keep it always on...
The only certain result will be to reduce amp's life...
I would instead power it on half an hour before listening.
The only certain result will be to reduce amp's life...
I would instead power it on half an hour before listening.