Just a quick question on the orientation of the upgrade amtrans and z foils. Do these have a best position?
Just a quick question on the orientation of the upgrade amtrans and z foils. Do these have a best position?
See Dario's current build guide pdf for details on recommended component orientation.
BK
i was trying to get the best parts for this amplifier , c9 is a very tricky component , i hope i got the right cerafine . What do you guys think?
I used the 50V black version, fwiw. I might go back to the Nichicon KZ to see if it's a better overall match for my system.
BK
Thanks BK, that means you are not 100% happy with the cerafines?
Not sure yet. Still chasing some weird bass. Not 100% certain my ebay cerafines were legit - just random concern and I have no reason to believe they are not authentic. Changed a few things at once a while back, so can't say for sure what the cause was.
Anyway, note that Dario's BOM footnotes indicate >50V for the cerafine part and your red ones are 35V. Try them and let us know what you think!
BK
you are right about the recommendations, but Dario said:"C9 usually see at best 2V so a much smaller rating than 50V can be used.
The theoretical maximum is 36V but just in case of fault.
So, in the past, we considered acceptable that C9 could fail in case of fault (the DC protection kicks in before anything bad could happen) to be able to use a really good sounding cap as a BlackGate PK.
Now using Cerafines rated at 50V we could have both, really good sound and circuit resiliency."
that was post no 2606 from My_Ref Fremen Edition - Build thread and tutorial
The theoretical maximum is 36V but just in case of fault.
So, in the past, we considered acceptable that C9 could fail in case of fault (the DC protection kicks in before anything bad could happen) to be able to use a really good sounding cap as a BlackGate PK.
Now using Cerafines rated at 50V we could have both, really good sound and circuit resiliency."
that was post no 2606 from My_Ref Fremen Edition - Build thread and tutorial
Yes but for Cerafines the 50V rating is very important also for the perceived sound quality.
Lower voltage ones don't sound as good.
Red Cerafines are the previous (older) generation ones and they sound a bit different, a bit bolder/fuller.
They will do fine but in general prefer black ones which are more fresh.
Lower voltage ones don't sound as good.
Red Cerafines are the previous (older) generation ones and they sound a bit different, a bit bolder/fuller.
They will do fine but in general prefer black ones which are more fresh.
C1 and c2 had a value of 220uf 50v, and I notice this later version has 470uf 50, so can I replace the 220uf with 470uf 50v?
C1 and c2 had a value of 220uf 50v, and I notice this later version has 470uf 50, so can I replace the 220uf with 470uf 50v?
Absolutely, the updated BOM can be used to upgrade previous builds.
Up to Rev 1.2
From Rev 1.5
Original (old)
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Not sure yet. Still chasing some weird bass. Not 100% certain my ebay cerafines were legit - just random concern and I have no reason to believe they are not authentic. Changed a few things at once a while back, so can't say for sure what the cause was.
Anyway, note that Dario's BOM footnotes indicate >50V for the cerafine part and your red ones are 35V. Try them and let us know what you think!
BK
Hey BK,
how long have you been running the amp with these parts? I experienced the bass issue as well. It changed quite a bit after about 50 hours of listening. After that the bass sounded ok.
Now, some 2 or 3 months later the bass changed again and now it is great. Maybe you should just give it some time to settle 🙂
P.S. I will update to Z-foils and Mlytic Caps soon and am curious how this affects the bass and the amp overall. Will report as soon as i have changed the parts 😉
Hey BK,
how long have you been running the amp with these parts? I experienced the bass issue as well. It changed quite a bit after about 50 hours of listening. After that the bass sounded ok.
Now, some 2 or 3 months later the bass changed again and now it is great. Maybe you should just give it some time to settle 🙂
P.S. I will update to Z-foils and Mlytic Caps soon and am curious how this affects the bass and the amp overall. Will report as soon as i have changed the parts 😉
That's a good point and encouraging to hear. I probably have about 40hrs on it I'd guess. I'll run it in a good bit more before making any other changes. Do keep us posted on your findings!
BK
bk856er "]Not sure yet. Still chasing some weird bass........"
The Isotek System Enhancer is quit good at speeding up burn-in. It's not a gimmick and is worth the investment IMO.
The Isotek System Enhancer is quit good at speeding up burn-in. It's not a gimmick and is worth the investment IMO.
The Isotek System Enhancer is quit good at speeding up burn-in. It's not a gimmick and is worth the investment IMO.
+1
Hello, is that I can replace the input of capacitor 1μf by 3.3μf because I have two already home and lower the resistance of r12 has entered 1kohm? His Which is the influance on assembly?
Thank you for your reply
Thank you for your reply
Hello, is that I can replace the input of capacitor 1μf by 3.3μf because I have two already home and lower the resistance of r12 has entered 1kohm? His Which is the influance on assembly?
Thank you for your reply
You can use the 3.3 uF caps without altering R12, leave it as is.
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