Are you wanting builders with sophisticated test equipment or just ears and a DMM? If the later, I would be in for a pair.
Additional Info
The goal is to reach 20 partecipants so that cost will be around 30€ (circa 39US$) per PCB pair (2mm, 70um, chemical gold) plus shipping.
So any type of builder is welcome. 😉
So far:
The boards can be populated entirely with Mouser parts.
Later I'll post the exact cost of Mouser BOM.
The goal is to reach 20 partecipants so that cost will be around 30€ (circa 39US$) per PCB pair (2mm, 70um, chemical gold) plus shipping.
So any type of builder is welcome. 😉
So far:
- ClaveFremen
- Suburra
- SoIL4x4
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The boards can be populated entirely with Mouser parts.
Later I'll post the exact cost of Mouser BOM.
A full Mouser BOM, that includes mounting hardware, (for both PCBs) will cost 206.64US$ / 157,78€.
The BOM includes premium industrial parts like Caddocks, Susumus, Nichicon FGs, Wima and ERO film/foil caps.
Fancy but effective parts like Mundorf Zn/Audyn True Copper and Mundorf MLythic AG can replace the input cap and big smoothing caps and will cost more 130US$/100€ (for both PCBs).
To complete the amp the necessary is:
- 2x 160VA 2x25V transformers (higher VA rating is better, 300VA is ideal)
- 4x binding posts
- 2x rca sockets
- case
- wire/solder/etc.
Maybe BOM's price point could scare someone... 😉
It must be taken in account that it can be lowered without sacrificing too much quality:
- -19$ if you already have hardware and don't want connectors
- -30$ if you replace Caddock MP930 with MP915, MP915 with KOA SPR and MK132 with carbon films.
- -4$ if you buy Tawain Semi MUR820
Is Kiwame and KOA Speer the same company ?
Will C102-C202 be omited from this PCB run ?
What is the output of the LED header ?
I modified the slip-on heatsinks I bought for IC101 (LM317) to work on R3. My boards are now populated so I just need to attach heatsinks and hook up Trafos.
Will C102-C202 be omited from this PCB run ?
What is the output of the LED header ?
I modified the slip-on heatsinks I bought for IC101 (LM317) to work on R3. My boards are now populated so I just need to attach heatsinks and hook up Trafos.
A lot of people, including me, trust that Kiwame are rebranded KOA SPR.
In fact they look (and sound) identical.
There is still the position but they're optional, to be mounted only if needed.
One application where they could be needed is a Rev A with a different opamp.
19.5V (+ on the right)
Well done!
I can't wait to read your comments. 🙂
For the quality of the components $206 for both channels really is not bad. I was really expecting more before Dario posted. I know I spent a great deal more on my integrated lm4780 build. If the sound is as good or better I will consider it money well 😀spent!
I've had a look at your thread... impressive, you've done a very good work with the case. 😎
A little Show & Tell
Here are the FEs with the new giant Antek 300VA toroids. Listening now to a live Reno Big Band album and the sound is simply gorgeous, powerful, unrestrained in any way.
Tomorrow hopefully, some more Caddocks and a trial without C102/202 will happen. Still comparing ZNs and Sonicaps with sockets.
That's the Mini2496 DAC with Dario's up bump in the background.😀
Here are the FEs with the new giant Antek 300VA toroids. Listening now to a live Reno Big Band album and the sound is simply gorgeous, powerful, unrestrained in any way.
Tomorrow hopefully, some more Caddocks and a trial without C102/202 will happen. Still comparing ZNs and Sonicaps with sockets.
That's the Mini2496 DAC with Dario's up bump in the background.😀
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So the bigger toroids are a worthwile improvement, right?
I'll read your comments with interest. 🙂
If you have at hand some FKP2 swap the FKS2 with FKP2, after last tests I feel those are the best available ones for those positions (best are the out of production ERO KP1834 I've sent you for C7).
Thank you Dario, I plan on using some similar design elements but with a few new tricks. And im thinking mono blocks..........
Yes, the bigger toroids add a tad more power but most remarkable is just the solidity and the feeling / impression of a relaxed effort to produce big dynamic changes. A 200 might well have been enough, but no way am I sorry I got these.
As soon as I get the sockets (prob late afternoon tomorrow) I'll be back in swap city.
As soon as I get the sockets (prob late afternoon tomorrow) I'll be back in swap city.
bob that is impressive. it's not overbuilt until the trafo's bigger than the amp 😀
and thank you so much for mentioning that mini dac in passing. i think i just found my new project 😉
and thank you so much for mentioning that mini dac in passing. i think i just found my new project 😉
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Thanks, The 200 (in my integrated amp) and the 300 have about the same diameter but the later is about 1/2" taller.
Like SoIL4x4 I'm also considering mono blocks. They could be placed near or on the speakers like Sunflower builder Jason did with his crossovers. My XOs will go back inside after tweaking, leaving a sopt for the FEs.
(speaker wires comming out of the wall on floor are for using the SFs as fronts for the 7.1 HT system.)
Like SoIL4x4 I'm also considering mono blocks. They could be placed near or on the speakers like Sunflower builder Jason did with his crossovers. My XOs will go back inside after tweaking, leaving a sopt for the FEs.
(speaker wires comming out of the wall on floor are for using the SFs as fronts for the 7.1 HT system.)
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