I was also surprised to see the 1000uf caps on the preamp board listed as snap-ins. I am used to using radials when they get that small. How is the board configured? Any chance for a configuration that allows either?
I was also surprised to see the 1000uf caps on the preamp board listed as snap-ins. I am used to using radials when they get that small. How is the board configured? Any chance for a configuration that allows either?
I was also surprised to see the 1000uf caps on the preamp board listed as snap-ins. I am used to using radial leads when they get that small. How is the board configured? Any chance for a configuration that allows either?
hayenc said:
Hi Craig,
The snap-ins have a lot of advantages, what 100V 1000uf part where you thinking of using?
Cheers!
Russ
I thought you were just really suprised!
I will update the BOM. Should be 4700uF caps.
There are two versions of the Panasonic FC 100V 220uF. One is 16, diameter with 7.5mm ps, the other is 12.5mm diameter with 5mm ps. Same part number, but the 12.5 has an 'L' added to the end.
I will update the BOM. Should be 4700uF caps.
There are two versions of the Panasonic FC 100V 220uF. One is 16, diameter with 7.5mm ps, the other is 12.5mm diameter with 5mm ps. Same part number, but the 12.5 has an 'L' added to the end.
I think the 4700uF stated on the pcb is way overkill😉 2200uF is more than needed for smoothing🙂 To tell you the truth, I used 680uF's for the proto of this preamp. Turned out to be quite enough😀 Regarding the 1000uF's for the preamp board, thats just the norm for a 1000uF 100V electrolytic🙂
Steen😎
I see no reason for that, whatsoever. 2200uF is more than adequate. (did I get that right??)😀 As for the 220uF caps on the psu board, I would like to see 100uF FC's. I intend to use those, whatever you come up with😉 There is no supply noise from the basic supply I made for this preamp🙂 FIY🙂
Steen😎
Whatever😀 As long as you go the overkill way, its ok with me😀
And propably a lot of other crazy's like me😀
Steen😎
Edit. Did we reach those 20 boards yet??🙂
steenoe said:
We have not reached 20 yet, but we have reached 14. 🙂 Which was my cutoff, so the PCbs will be ordered tonight. 🙂
I am just thrilled to hear that🙂 Cant wait to finish a super mega, "Twisted BosoZ"😀 I am sure you will be amazed, when you see it😉 I have a good load of boutiqe parts ready and waiting😀
Steen😎
The Audioxpress Bosoz uses snap-ins. The P1.7 board I have uses radial leads and I had some Nichicon Muse left over. I also have 1000 uf snap-in's, so it is not a problem. Neither is really more 'standard' than the other.
Well, you are right, hayenc. Its just,that for these purposes, I am kind of used to snap-ins 😉 Sorry bout that🙂
Steen😎
I know that😀 How do you think I was able to build the Twisted proto😀 😀 I had all the parts in the bin😉 Now, you got me thinking...........
Steen😎
I have a major tendancy towards overkill in my designs, driven mainly by the factors (a) that I only want to build it once, and (b) when you are only spending dimes on dollars compared to the retail gear, why not!
In my 50W Aleph-X monblocks I put in 0.3F per channel, and I get about a half-second delay between flipping off the power switch and the music fading away. Let's me know that my power supply ain't limiting the lower frequency response! With my PS design for the X-BoSoZ using the 4700uF caps, I get 3-4 seconds of play after I turn the power off, but then I was also aiming for a 130dB+ signal to power-supply noise ratio, so that silence would indeed be silence, even if you use crazy 110dB sensitivity speakers or such. By the way this X-BoSoZ combined with the Aleph-X is (at least IMHO) pure magic. They are a very synergistic combination.
The other nice thing about overkill design in power supplies is that the need for fancy powercords or power conditioners etc. becomes redundant. The power qualtiy in my area has been questionable of late, with the lights often flickering from momentary power sags, etc., and through these events I haven't had the slightest hint of an effect on the sound quality of my system, and that's with the pre and amps plugged straight into the wall.
Geez, apparently I'm feeling gabby today! Let me summarize in brief: Yes, everything about the Twisted X-BosoZ and PS are in a state of overkill, but it does have its benfits!
In my 50W Aleph-X monblocks I put in 0.3F per channel, and I get about a half-second delay between flipping off the power switch and the music fading away. Let's me know that my power supply ain't limiting the lower frequency response! With my PS design for the X-BoSoZ using the 4700uF caps, I get 3-4 seconds of play after I turn the power off, but then I was also aiming for a 130dB+ signal to power-supply noise ratio, so that silence would indeed be silence, even if you use crazy 110dB sensitivity speakers or such. By the way this X-BoSoZ combined with the Aleph-X is (at least IMHO) pure magic. They are a very synergistic combination.
The other nice thing about overkill design in power supplies is that the need for fancy powercords or power conditioners etc. becomes redundant. The power qualtiy in my area has been questionable of late, with the lights often flickering from momentary power sags, etc., and through these events I haven't had the slightest hint of an effect on the sound quality of my system, and that's with the pre and amps plugged straight into the wall.
Geez, apparently I'm feeling gabby today! Let me summarize in brief: Yes, everything about the Twisted X-BosoZ and PS are in a state of overkill, but it does have its benfits!
Russ, or Brian working at home again,
i need to order that Kookaburra board and a X-BOSOZ set to stop the shaking.
Can either one of you twisted fruit tell me how many times i have to hit the shipping button on your order page ?
Thanks.
i need to order that Kookaburra board and a X-BOSOZ set to stop the shaking.
Can either one of you twisted fruit tell me how many times i have to hit the shipping button on your order page ?
Thanks.