Once I figured out what would fit all I had to make the panel the power supplies are bolted to. Cases take longer than the rest of the project, I probably spent at least 8 hrs with all the drilling and machining. This one I purchased from John Ango at Antec, He is very good to deal with. Another shot
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wirewiggler said:Once I figured out what would fit all I had to make the panel the power supplies are bolted to. Cases take longer than the rest of the project, I probably spent at least 8 hrs with all the drilling and machining. This one I purchased from John Ango at Antec, He is very good to deal with. Another shot
Yes i have to agree with you and John Ango, he sells great stuff and has great support for all his product. I have one of his chassis just like yours but bigger that i don't use, i think i should sell it.
Jase
wirewiggler said:Russ, Brian looking forward to new controller.
Bill
As am I 😉
Great work man. Thats a very cool preamp. I like the front panel!
There just something about a nice neat row of XLRs. 🙂
Can't wait to see what you do when the master controller is available. 🙂
Thanks for the kind words.
Cheers!
Russ
wirewiggler said:Once I figured out what would fit all I had to make the panel the power supplies are bolted to. Cases take longer than the rest of the project, I probably spent at least 8 hrs with all the drilling and machining. This one I purchased from John Ango at Antec, He is very good to deal with. Another shot
ugly!

even if is service man's nightmare!
We have a few more of the X-BoSoZ pre boards left, which I just made available on our site. Maybe 5 or 6 pairs, need to check.
Hi guys, I am new at this. Just starting to build the x-bosoz. Completed the PS board using this schematic:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=768273&stamp=1132178787
The -ve rail is fine, but having a problem on the +ve rail side. My zener string which is 63V starts turning black and smokes after about 1 min of powering on. I measure the V across the zener string and it is about 74V and the output is also about 74V. The power supply after rectification is about 83V
Appreciate any help or ideas on how to troubleshoot this issue. I have checked the layout and all is fine.
Thanx.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=768273&stamp=1132178787
The -ve rail is fine, but having a problem on the +ve rail side. My zener string which is 63V starts turning black and smokes after about 1 min of powering on. I measure the V across the zener string and it is about 74V and the output is also about 74V. The power supply after rectification is about 83V
Appreciate any help or ideas on how to troubleshoot this issue. I have checked the layout and all is fine.
Thanx.
Thanx for your reply. I believe you are referring to R4? I had checked it and it was ok. Anyway, the problem was my transformer. Now the PSU is outputting +62V and -11V.
Another problem. The output of both my pre-amp boards are very low. With an input of 300mV, I am only getting about 10mV of output. There is sound, but output very low.
Anyone has tips on how to check the pre-circuit and what to look out for?
Any help will be appreciated. Cheers!
Another problem. The output of both my pre-amp boards are very low. With an input of 300mV, I am only getting about 10mV of output. There is sound, but output very low.
Anyone has tips on how to check the pre-circuit and what to look out for?
Any help will be appreciated. Cheers!
How much output swing could we expect from this preamp ?
It's to drive directly grids of au EL509 power amplifier.
It's to drive directly grids of au EL509 power amplifier.
Antonytls said:How much output swing could we expect from this preamp ?
It's to drive directly grids of au EL509 power amplifier.
what's bias voltage for these toobz?
I Think the std version (BOSOZ) is about 25V S.E. or 50V P-P. Double that for DIff output. That would be for 60V supplies. Distortion climbs with output level!... This version would be somewhat less depending on your cascode voltage 😀Antonytls said:How much output swing could we expect from this preamp ?
It's to drive directly grids of au EL509 power amplifier.
I have +80V on mine! Lots of headroom 😀
Grid of my EL 509 PP will be bias between -40V and -60V.
Double push-pull - PSU=300V - Output transformer=1900 ohms
I think I will try it to for split stage and driver.
Double push-pull - PSU=300V - Output transformer=1900 ohms
I think I will try it to for split stage and driver.
Antonytls said:Grid of my EL 509 PP will be bias between -40V and -60V.
Double push-pull - PSU=300V - Output transformer=1900 ohms
I think I will try it to for split stage and driver.
in that case - you'll not have full swing from poor mosfet preamp , needed to awake those hungry grids; at least not needed swing for full blast
if you don't need full power , than it's OK .
but- you can try to make X-BOSOZ with bigger PSU voltages , and have what you need
X-BOSOZ hummmmm
Russ,
Or anyone, lately I have noticed a hum from my X-BOSOZ / Joshua combo humming when volume is low, at full volume it goes away. I know it is a grounding issue. How did you wire yours? My ground on the X-BOSOZ board is tied to chassis ground threw a cl60 thermistor. The rest are isolated. I also have a hum when outputting to single ended devices (headphone amp tube amp).
Bill
Russ,
Or anyone, lately I have noticed a hum from my X-BOSOZ / Joshua combo humming when volume is low, at full volume it goes away. I know it is a grounding issue. How did you wire yours? My ground on the X-BOSOZ board is tied to chassis ground threw a cl60 thermistor. The rest are isolated. I also have a hum when outputting to single ended devices (headphone amp tube amp).
Bill
I have not had any hum.
First, my JT is on the X-BoSoZ outputs.
My mains earth is tied to the chassis, but is not connected to the signal ground at all.
If you want to keep the earth ground tie, you could try the back-to-back diode trick, which will require a couple volts of difference in ground potential before any current flows.
Try lifting the ground link to see if it eliminates your hum. Then you can plan your solution.
First, my JT is on the X-BoSoZ outputs.
My mains earth is tied to the chassis, but is not connected to the signal ground at all.
If you want to keep the earth ground tie, you could try the back-to-back diode trick, which will require a couple volts of difference in ground potential before any current flows.
Try lifting the ground link to see if it eliminates your hum. Then you can plan your solution.
Thanks Brian,
Seems like I tried lifting it, but to many brews under the belt. I am gone a few weeks so I will revisit when I get back. I have been slacking on it because I figured I would look into it when I converted to new remote controller.
Seems like I tried lifting it, but to many brews under the belt. I am gone a few weeks so I will revisit when I get back. I have been slacking on it because I figured I would look into it when I converted to new remote controller.
C1 non-polar
Can any one tell me the C1 in the "pre-amp" need to use a 22uF Non Polar cap ?
Thanks !
Can any one tell me the C1 in the "pre-amp" need to use a 22uF Non Polar cap ?
Thanks !
G'day,
Over this past weekend I did the Zen Mod on my twisted xbosoz 'Jfet cascoded CCS-ed BOSOZ for Steenoe' mod, to my ears the difference in sound is huge, won't bore you with all the audio geek speak stuff but the mod is the dogs. So Zen Mod & Steenoe thanks will have to iron in the BC546 next when will this all end, well until I finish welding up the F4 hopefully this week.
Cheers
Bruce
Over this past weekend I did the Zen Mod on my twisted xbosoz 'Jfet cascoded CCS-ed BOSOZ for Steenoe' mod, to my ears the difference in sound is huge, won't bore you with all the audio geek speak stuff but the mod is the dogs. So Zen Mod & Steenoe thanks will have to iron in the BC546 next when will this all end, well until I finish welding up the F4 hopefully this week.
Cheers
Bruce
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