My take on a discrete shunt voltage regulator

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Sorry to disappoint, the two boards are identical: positive; the two wires just happen to be different colours. I use the wire to dip the boards in the etching solution. I'm going to send for "evaluation" only positive boards for now, since the negative ones should behave the same.

keantoken, do you prefer it completely assembled?

Here they are, the two boards etched and drilled, ready for stuffing.
 

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I could solder myself, but problem is all I have for the moment is a butane pen iron and that fries anything in the immediate vicinity (I also haven't had much practice soldering). So I would prefer pre-assembly, if not it may be some time before I get a friendly iron (I plan on using the boards sent for my test bench, it seems shunts are perfect for prototyping where it's necessary to limit current)

I'll go with your decision,
- keantoken
 
I could solder myself, but problem is all I have for the moment is a butane pen iron and that fries anything in the immediate vicinity (I also haven't had much practice soldering).

buy cheap 40W soldering iron for 2 or 3 USD & start practicing. If you learn to solder with this crappy thing, you will solder like a pro with proper soldering station 😀
 
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stormsonic, I'll make another board for you tonight because I'm sending Salas the two that I just finished.

keantoken, I thought about it, we're going to have problems if you're not setup for soldering at the moment. The current limit needs to be set, probably changed, for a real test. And that involves soldering different resistors. Same goes for the output voltage. I'd like to get the tests done sooner rather than later, to minimize the wait for everybody.

Just so that we have no confusion. The pcb boards that I'm sending away for testing are etched by me, manually, using ferric chloride. They are not made by the pcb manufacturer. The cost is high to just order a few pcbs and the wait will be longer. Also, the only real difference between the pcbs that I etch and those from the manufacturer is the mask. The copper layer follows the same dimensions exactly, since I transfer the copper layout using a laser printer. The boards from the manufacturer will look a lot more professional, but functionally they are the same as those etched by me at home.
 
I was just saying to Salas last night that it's starting to be a bit of a pain, but I hate starting something and not finishing it, so I'll see it through. 😀 It doesn't help that I have a lot of things going on in life right now besides the hobby. On the other hand, I love being busy, and I hate being bored. So it's all good in the end, living a full life is definitely my cup of tea 🙂

It's a given, when we want to squeeze the last bit of performance out of a circuit, it becomes a bit more complex and then it's hard for a lot of people to build it up to spec without a proper PCB.
 
For me, I've got plenty of "hobbies" but DIY audio is my favorite and if it wasn't for guy's like you it wouldn't be half as much fun. Big :up: from me, thanks!

I was just saying to Salas last night that it's starting to be a bit of a pain, but I hate starting something and not finishing it, so I'll see it through. 😀 It doesn't help that I have a lot of things going on in life right now besides the hobby. On the other hand, I love being busy, and I hate being bored. So it's all good in the end, living a full life is definitely my cup of tea 🙂

It's a given, when we want to squeeze the last bit of performance out of a circuit, it becomes a bit more complex and then it's hard for a lot of people to build it up to spec without a proper PCB.
 
For what it's worth, I still have been unable to get this design to simulate without oscillation. I have tried several device models but to no avail. Maybe in this case reality is completely out of sync with simulation.

This is in complete contrast to the Salas reg which simulates very well:

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And unconditionally stable.
 
AFAIK, there is a certain tradeoff between between regulation and stability between the Salas and Ikoshunt (or whatever it's called). (In LTSpice it has worked for me)

Since soldering would probably be a problem, go ahead and send my boards to someone else, if you think it's best.

Also, have you tried testing Zout vs. frequency in real life?

- keantoken
 
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