I have decided to refine my implementation of the 219. The first was marvelous but not very handy with cables running on the outside of the carbon stick, The seat of the pen wasn't cleanly punched and so forth. So it will not be an 219 - well - maybe in $.
Still, the design will be as Nanooks but the parts will be more of my own design.
Thank you Nanook for sharing the idea.
Regards
Still, the design will be as Nanooks but the parts will be more of my own design.
Thank you Nanook for sharing the idea.
Regards
not a "219" ...
guys,
Let's not get too hung up about whether an arm is or isn't precisely a "219". I have never stated that my implementation was an "end all", but rather it works so I'm leaving it (the basic design and materials) alone.
My biggest concerns about carbon fibre is that when cutting, the person doing the cutting can be exposed to micro-particles that could be ingested and could cause future health concerns. The concept of carbon fibre is fine, but it is not needed as the effective mass of the arm is already quite low, and if lowered much more, mass would have to be added.
Regarding the use of Vee jewel bearings, some pens do have the correct geometry to allow the use of Vee bearing, including an appropriate sized cup. You'll have to chase the dimensions down based on the pen nubs you use.
I'm attaching a couple of photos showing a near complete "219" and the details of the last build.
guys,
Let's not get too hung up about whether an arm is or isn't precisely a "219". I have never stated that my implementation was an "end all", but rather it works so I'm leaving it (the basic design and materials) alone.
My biggest concerns about carbon fibre is that when cutting, the person doing the cutting can be exposed to micro-particles that could be ingested and could cause future health concerns. The concept of carbon fibre is fine, but it is not needed as the effective mass of the arm is already quite low, and if lowered much more, mass would have to be added.
Regarding the use of Vee jewel bearings, some pens do have the correct geometry to allow the use of Vee bearing, including an appropriate sized cup. You'll have to chase the dimensions down based on the pen nubs you use.
I'm attaching a couple of photos showing a near complete "219" and the details of the last build.
Attachments
"219" parts....
Over the years (about 10 now) quite a few folks have asked for complete arms and/or parts to make your own "Nanook 219". I'm thinking of doing just that.
With that in mind, what would everyone like to see offered? Initially I am thinking that a complete arm ready to mount may be the way to go. It would allow me to purchase any machines I require to make the arms and the headshells much more consistently thus reducing sample to sample variances. So what would the benefits be?
Many have stated that getting a single arrow shaft can be difficult (depending on where one lives). Also a decent bearing that allows enough movement without too much (so both the pen nib and plug/set screw I use for the female cup). Many can come up with a counterweight, but I've discovered some that work quite well. What's left? tonearm wiring (length x's 5), 4 cartridge clips, and a pair of RCA plugs (male) or female RCA inputs. So in the end all the stuff that seems to take so long to get can be done once.
Over the years (about 10 now) quite a few folks have asked for complete arms and/or parts to make your own "Nanook 219". I'm thinking of doing just that.
With that in mind, what would everyone like to see offered? Initially I am thinking that a complete arm ready to mount may be the way to go. It would allow me to purchase any machines I require to make the arms and the headshells much more consistently thus reducing sample to sample variances. So what would the benefits be?
Many have stated that getting a single arrow shaft can be difficult (depending on where one lives). Also a decent bearing that allows enough movement without too much (so both the pen nib and plug/set screw I use for the female cup). Many can come up with a counterweight, but I've discovered some that work quite well. What's left? tonearm wiring (length x's 5), 4 cartridge clips, and a pair of RCA plugs (male) or female RCA inputs. So in the end all the stuff that seems to take so long to get can be done once.
I would like to see a kit of parts. When you try to purchase random parts, your never sure if you end up with the correct "stuff" as designed. Brand of "pen nibs", etc. I would like to find out what counterweight "that work quite well" is. PM me?
Hi Folks
I've been a bit quiet of late- due to needing cataract operations on both eyes. All this is now behind me and my eyesight is now perfect! I've been working on two new designs which I'll share over the coming weeks-good to be back in the 'technicolor' world again!
I've been a bit quiet of late- due to needing cataract operations on both eyes. All this is now behind me and my eyesight is now perfect! I've been working on two new designs which I'll share over the coming weeks-good to be back in the 'technicolor' world again!
sorry for my tardiness in this thread...
Hi all,
it seems this past couple of years that I have not made much progress on my "219" tonearm (or "$2.19 tonearm"). That would actually be much closer to the truth than I would care to think. I still use my original, and the sound has remained the same. The real testament to this tonearm build is my continued use of it in the original state.
I have seen some great implementations of the 219 here and elsewhere (just do a search for "Nanook 219 diy tonearm" on any search engine). Any further work beyond that is more about "niceties" and in my estimation makes for a more convenient arm to use, but does not add much (if any) performance to the arm itself.
With this in mind, I have been thinking about some improvements, most notably to the female bearing "carrier". In the original, the arm is quite easy to upset, and it remains in that state unless corrected. Many have created or implemented ideas so that it self corrects but I believe that the fact that the arm can be upset so easily is one of the reasons the arm has an inherent good sound quality. The bearing location was not chosen haphazardly and makes for a very agile arm. The addition of a "cup" as seen is some implementations can help, but if too heavy can lead to larger inertia required to pivot the arm radially. This alone can lead to the need for some sort of anti-skating adjustment. My thought is to use the lightest possible "cup", perhaps made of wood (I like wood). This can also reduce the likelihood of knocking the arm off of its pivot for those using cartridges that are somewhat expensive.
An arm lift is a nice feature, as is the ability to adjust for azimuth. Using a "dangling" counter-weight with a slip knot can make for a simple and effective means to do so. Others could include counter-weights of different shape or using different offsets for the arm hole. Plan on USD $45 for a purchased solution. But be aware there are lots of counter-weights much more expensive
There are better bearings out there, but the pen nibs and pipe plugs work sufficiently well. Jewel V-cup bearing cups and their matching precision shafts may be better, but expect to spend a few $$$s (USD $20-$50 or more). Call it USD $35.
There are better wiring options available to the arm builder, but expect to spend a few $$$s (again, use whatever you like, but price out good raw wire in 5 colours and 5' pieces, say minimum $40). Price in some cartridge clips (USD $10 and up). At least 2 RCA phono plugs are required ( $10 and up per pair). so minimum USD $60
So that's USD $140 to be planned for if you want to have an "upgraded arm", not including the regular costs of a counter-weight, a headshell, the arm tube, etc.
You can see that the $2.19 tonearm can start to approach some good used arms or inexpensive commercial arms currently available, if you start opting for "purchased solutions", not including any machining or fabrication you may have to have done if unable to diy. And here's the thing...if I were to build these and sell them, I'd be hard pressed to sell them for less than say USD $400, and I'd have to really dig for some better pricing based on quantities required so that there would be some margin to offset my time. Oh, and packaging gets expensive very quickly.
The scrounger in me would force me to make some choices regarding the cost of purchasing the required supplies, but I would not be making any sacrifices based on performance.
I'll not argue the validity of these points here but merely offer them as possible solutions to people seeking upgrades over the scrounged items as per some of the constructors here.
Hi all,
it seems this past couple of years that I have not made much progress on my "219" tonearm (or "$2.19 tonearm"). That would actually be much closer to the truth than I would care to think. I still use my original, and the sound has remained the same. The real testament to this tonearm build is my continued use of it in the original state.
I have seen some great implementations of the 219 here and elsewhere (just do a search for "Nanook 219 diy tonearm" on any search engine). Any further work beyond that is more about "niceties" and in my estimation makes for a more convenient arm to use, but does not add much (if any) performance to the arm itself.
With this in mind, I have been thinking about some improvements, most notably to the female bearing "carrier". In the original, the arm is quite easy to upset, and it remains in that state unless corrected. Many have created or implemented ideas so that it self corrects but I believe that the fact that the arm can be upset so easily is one of the reasons the arm has an inherent good sound quality. The bearing location was not chosen haphazardly and makes for a very agile arm. The addition of a "cup" as seen is some implementations can help, but if too heavy can lead to larger inertia required to pivot the arm radially. This alone can lead to the need for some sort of anti-skating adjustment. My thought is to use the lightest possible "cup", perhaps made of wood (I like wood). This can also reduce the likelihood of knocking the arm off of its pivot for those using cartridges that are somewhat expensive.
An arm lift is a nice feature, as is the ability to adjust for azimuth. Using a "dangling" counter-weight with a slip knot can make for a simple and effective means to do so. Others could include counter-weights of different shape or using different offsets for the arm hole. Plan on USD $45 for a purchased solution. But be aware there are lots of counter-weights much more expensive
There are better bearings out there, but the pen nibs and pipe plugs work sufficiently well. Jewel V-cup bearing cups and their matching precision shafts may be better, but expect to spend a few $$$s (USD $20-$50 or more). Call it USD $35.
There are better wiring options available to the arm builder, but expect to spend a few $$$s (again, use whatever you like, but price out good raw wire in 5 colours and 5' pieces, say minimum $40). Price in some cartridge clips (USD $10 and up). At least 2 RCA phono plugs are required ( $10 and up per pair). so minimum USD $60
So that's USD $140 to be planned for if you want to have an "upgraded arm", not including the regular costs of a counter-weight, a headshell, the arm tube, etc.
You can see that the $2.19 tonearm can start to approach some good used arms or inexpensive commercial arms currently available, if you start opting for "purchased solutions", not including any machining or fabrication you may have to have done if unable to diy. And here's the thing...if I were to build these and sell them, I'd be hard pressed to sell them for less than say USD $400, and I'd have to really dig for some better pricing based on quantities required so that there would be some margin to offset my time. Oh, and packaging gets expensive very quickly.
The scrounger in me would force me to make some choices regarding the cost of purchasing the required supplies, but I would not be making any sacrifices based on performance.
I'll not argue the validity of these points here but merely offer them as possible solutions to people seeking upgrades over the scrounged items as per some of the constructors here.
I'm thinking of building something like your arms formy lenco l75. Very inspiring. Ballpen-solution for pivot! What is a Ikea candleholder?
The new 11" Schiit Audio SOL tonearm is now available for $199. Schiit says it comes with the arm wired and all weights. I assume it does not come with the arm bearing. Could the roller ball pen bearing you've used work for the SOL? If so, have you refined that choice?
Just watched the SOL setup video. Any naked point and a computer connector should get it working without the Schitt table.
The SOL is very much an already built diyTT. Everything is, and will need, adjustment.
dave
The SOL is very much an already built diyTT. Everything is, and will need, adjustment.
dave
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