direct link to shipping post in Vendor's Bizarre
I posted shipping information and costs for "beta kits" and Arm kits here
all Beta testers should contact me.
Thanks all.
I must say that all have been very patient.
In addition to comp problems, I have been laid off from my day job and need to seek employment (or give up on that and spend all my time on kits, arms turntables, etc.)
still wanting to set up an audio "co-op" of similarly minded small "manufacturers"
I posted shipping information and costs for "beta kits" and Arm kits here
all Beta testers should contact me.
Thanks all.
I must say that all have been very patient.
In addition to comp problems, I have been laid off from my day job and need to seek employment (or give up on that and spend all my time on kits, arms turntables, etc.)
still wanting to set up an audio "co-op" of similarly minded small "manufacturers"
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posted info in Vendor's Bizarre...
Need to get Canuck rates though😡
The Canadian rates most likely will be higher, makes ya kinda mad, don't it...
Need to get Canuck rates though😡
The Canadian rates most likely will be higher, makes ya kinda mad, don't it...
nah - with the canadian dollar stronger than the american it's only logical that we should pay more to send a package between Lethbridge and Toronto than to Florida 
. Besides - from your public profile, I see you are in a different country than me 😀. I didn't realize you had seceded already 😉.
. Besides - from your public profile, I see you are in a different country than me 😀. I didn't realize you had seceded already 😉.
continued work on the "kit arm"
hey folks,
sorry if I've been tardy concerning updates as to what;'s been happening regarding the "219"
I've settled on a headshell design based on Frank Schroeder's design. I can make it myself and I think it provides quite an easy set up and alignment.
I've made a couple of prototypes and they seem like they will work well. Once I get a couple in the "finished state, I'll post a picture here, as well as in the Vendor's Bizarre forum
thanks to all those who have remained interested.
Added comments: The headshell is drilled out at approximately 5/16". You guys will have to drill them out (or sand them with a Dremel or ream them) to fit the shafts. One way I fit the headshell to the arm tube is to insert a smaller diameter of tubing to the arm tube, gluing it into the tube. Then attach the headshell.
My reason for not doing this is simple: I do not have a drill press, and every headshell that I have tried to re-size I have destroyed. I tried making some Yamamoto style headshells but I always screwed them up when I went to hand drill the hole for the arm tube.
hey folks,
sorry if I've been tardy concerning updates as to what;'s been happening regarding the "219"
I've settled on a headshell design based on Frank Schroeder's design. I can make it myself and I think it provides quite an easy set up and alignment.
I've made a couple of prototypes and they seem like they will work well. Once I get a couple in the "finished state, I'll post a picture here, as well as in the Vendor's Bizarre forum
thanks to all those who have remained interested.
Added comments: The headshell is drilled out at approximately 5/16". You guys will have to drill them out (or sand them with a Dremel or ream them) to fit the shafts. One way I fit the headshell to the arm tube is to insert a smaller diameter of tubing to the arm tube, gluing it into the tube. Then attach the headshell.
My reason for not doing this is simple: I do not have a drill press, and every headshell that I have tried to re-size I have destroyed. I tried making some Yamamoto style headshells but I always screwed them up when I went to hand drill the hole for the arm tube.
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the paid list so far.
those paid so far (shipping only, via eBay):
trondKJ
sled108
sanchu888
TerribleT
Laiphroaig
guaranteed to get a Yamamoto style headshell. PS: once out of the Yamamoto style headshell, a wooden version of the Schroeder design will be substituted, as desired. Of course any can opt out of any of the headshells and get just the shaft and male pivot.
those paid so far (shipping only, via eBay):
trondKJ
sled108
sanchu888
TerribleT
Laiphroaig
guaranteed to get a Yamamoto style headshell. PS: once out of the Yamamoto style headshell, a wooden version of the Schroeder design will be substituted, as desired. Of course any can opt out of any of the headshells and get just the shaft and male pivot.
guys, a little more information
Once the few Yamamoto (I guess Ortofon has a similar headshell) style headshells are gone, I won't be getting any more unless they are purchases and are paid. I destroyed 2 of them trying to alter them to fit the arm tubes, and would like to retain a couple for myself. I need to order them 10 at a time. You can have my own construction of a Schroeder headshell in wood or the parts to make one yourself.
The wooden headshells need to have the mounting hole either sanded out with a small Dremel sanding drum or re-drilled to fit the arm shafts. The reason I haven't done this is that I lack the ability to do this accurately. If I am to continue making these I need to purchase some woodworking tools.
Also please note that there are no holes drilled into the tonearm shafts to allow the exit of tonearm wires. This is done so that you can have the wires exit on the topside or underside of the arm as each of you see fit. Just use some lubricant on with a good bit and drill as slowly as possible. Wear eye protection.
Once the few Yamamoto (I guess Ortofon has a similar headshell) style headshells are gone, I won't be getting any more unless they are purchases and are paid. I destroyed 2 of them trying to alter them to fit the arm tubes, and would like to retain a couple for myself. I need to order them 10 at a time. You can have my own construction of a Schroeder headshell in wood or the parts to make one yourself.
The wooden headshells need to have the mounting hole either sanded out with a small Dremel sanding drum or re-drilled to fit the arm shafts. The reason I haven't done this is that I lack the ability to do this accurately. If I am to continue making these I need to purchase some woodworking tools.
Also please note that there are no holes drilled into the tonearm shafts to allow the exit of tonearm wires. This is done so that you can have the wires exit on the topside or underside of the arm as each of you see fit. Just use some lubricant on with a good bit and drill as slowly as possible. Wear eye protection.
Somewhere someone asked about using the 219 on an AR and Dave responded that it may be necessary to lock down the suspension. I guess you don't want the table moving and the arm not but what effect would that have?
The only issue I see with using this arm on an AR would be the mounting distance. Having the arm mounted to a separate, but attached arm board on say an XA shouldn't affect play. The suspension in an AR table doesn't move around during play.....if it does, something is wrong with it.....or the table is mounted on a "sprungy" surface and people are jumping around.
The suspension simply takes the acoustic feedback and reduces it down to 2hz-2 1/2hz. That doesn't mean the platters are jumping up and down at that frequency.
Thanks, BaMorin - good info. I think the idea is to mount the arm to an unattached board off to the side leaving the original arm in place.
I believe that Dave was correct in that any unipivot arm would be at a disadvantage on a suspended mounting. Any movement in the mount would probable cause some oscillation of the arm itself, I think that unipivot arms are best when used with a solid mount, so having an outboard mount as you mention should work fine.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Thanks TerryO - I'm learning more all the time. I still don't understand about locking down the suspension though. I know records weigh different amounts and I could see how this could change the alignment if the arm didn't move with the platter. Could this be the reason? How would this effect the feedback freq?
Locking down the suspension stops the movement of the sub chassis which controls movement for the platter and the tone arm. A Unipivot arm needs a stable, solid mount so it can primarily rotate laterally, sweeping across the plane of the record's surface. With a suspended chassis mounting like an AR or Linn, the unipivot can often be compelled to rock from side to side which will cause the cartridge tip to rotate, changing the stylus angle within the groove. What the concern was if you mounted the Unipivot arm on the suspended chassis. Mounting it solidly outboard removes the problem and allows you to go ahead and use the suspended platter.
I hope this helps,
TerryO
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O.K. I guess I misunderstood. I thought he was saying I needed to lock down the suspension even if the arm is mounted 'solidly outboard'. I'll try it and see what happens. I'll just use some of my less desirable records when testing. I've got a few candidates.
Having a floating platter will work, as long as you let it settle down after placing a record on it and it's allowed to get up to speed.
Best Regards,
TerryO
My gut as that locking the suspension down is probably even more important if the arm is out boarded & on a rigid fixing.
The uni-pivots on my Oracle seem fine. And i have mounted a number of Mayware F4 on ARs (just need to drill out a few holes)
dave
Dave,
Perhaps you're correct, although it isn't immediately intuitive, at least in my mind. However, there is certainly one sure way to find out...and this is DIY right? For Jimbro to avoid extra work, he may just try it outboard first and if that's not working, he could then mount it to the subchassis.
Best Regards,
TerryO
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