another dead HD,
and thus no posts. Using my kid's comp (a MacBook, tonight only).
I have a list of 9 for tonearm parts:
I have to talk to P10 (who is an apple power user) to see what I can do to fix my issues. I have bought a new 500GB Seagate Barracuda 7200 RPM HD, to replace the factory 250GB WD Caviar , and the WD Passport that I was using. tmblack, I prefer to ship direct to you in the UK, it's actually cheaper than shipping to Vancouver!
As soon as I can get things figured I will post shipping details, and PayPal details. I apologize for all the BS.
and thus no posts. Using my kid's comp (a MacBook, tonight only).
I have a list of 9 for tonearm parts:
- nicoch
- trondk
- Laiphrang
- canzld
- sled108
- sachu888
- kevinkr
- sgregory
- tmblack
I have to talk to P10 (who is an apple power user) to see what I can do to fix my issues. I have bought a new 500GB Seagate Barracuda 7200 RPM HD, to replace the factory 250GB WD Caviar , and the WD Passport that I was using. tmblack, I prefer to ship direct to you in the UK, it's actually cheaper than shipping to Vancouver!
As soon as I can get things figured I will post shipping details, and PayPal details. I apologize for all the BS.
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a list for 10...
hallcon83/B],
the are 10, but someone had asked about 2 arms, and I had agreed to send a second. If I had previously agreed to send you one, I'll make another.
Please note: if I have agreed to send any an arm, and if not on the list, please remind me. However at some point I do have to limit the number I send out as "free". The only costs are the actual shipping costs via Canada Post small packet shipping.
hallcon83/B],
the are 10, but someone had asked about 2 arms, and I had agreed to send a second. If I had previously agreed to send you one, I'll make another.
Please note: if I have agreed to send any an arm, and if not on the list, please remind me. However at some point I do have to limit the number I send out as "free". The only costs are the actual shipping costs via Canada Post small packet shipping.
Nanook,
After reading/skimming through this thread, I think I've caught the diy tonearm high fever. I want to make one. I know I've missed the free beta-tester train so what would it cost for one of your kits?
Regards,
David
After reading/skimming through this thread, I think I've caught the diy tonearm high fever. I want to make one. I know I've missed the free beta-tester train so what would it cost for one of your kits?
Regards,
David
How much?
At this point no set price. The "beta tester" kits consist of :
The end user needs to create a holder for the male bearing, internally wire the arm, make a counterweight (or re-use an old one), attach the headshell, create an arm rest and if required something to allow one to lift and lower the arm (I've used a piece of stainless from an old headshell. Is it called a cueing arm?). The end result is approximately 308 mm effective length. The counterweight needs to be at least 90 grams. Mass is in the effective mass of about 14 grams.
David: Perhaps $50 or so plus shipping. Mainly to cover the cost of the headshells (which I have made), and raw materials. I may be able to actually put $10 into my pocket, and pay P10 back for some stuff (great speakers for any that need some. Full-rangers that do almost everything beautifully).
If I make a complete arm as a "retail" product, my goal would be to create an arm that could sell for under $200 complete, with an arm cueing/mount, and internal wiring and tags, and RCA ends (male). This was and is the whole point of the project, to make an arm that could sell at $200 and outperform anything at or near its price (new or used). The cost of an arm seems to keep many from either getting back in to vinyl or to start.
At this point no set price. The "beta tester" kits consist of :
- headshells (that I purchase, but are made to spec)
- arm tubes with a female bearing installed
- male bearing pivot
The end user needs to create a holder for the male bearing, internally wire the arm, make a counterweight (or re-use an old one), attach the headshell, create an arm rest and if required something to allow one to lift and lower the arm (I've used a piece of stainless from an old headshell. Is it called a cueing arm?). The end result is approximately 308 mm effective length. The counterweight needs to be at least 90 grams. Mass is in the effective mass of about 14 grams.
David: Perhaps $50 or so plus shipping. Mainly to cover the cost of the headshells (which I have made), and raw materials. I may be able to actually put $10 into my pocket, and pay P10 back for some stuff (great speakers for any that need some. Full-rangers that do almost everything beautifully).
If I make a complete arm as a "retail" product, my goal would be to create an arm that could sell for under $200 complete, with an arm cueing/mount, and internal wiring and tags, and RCA ends (male). This was and is the whole point of the project, to make an arm that could sell at $200 and outperform anything at or near its price (new or used). The cost of an arm seems to keep many from either getting back in to vinyl or to start.
Nanook,
50 bucks entry fee for a little diy fun sounds like a bargain. If you can find the time and gather up the bits and pieces for the '219' I can pay you through paypal.
Regards,
David
50 bucks entry fee for a little diy fun sounds like a bargain. If you can find the time and gather up the bits and pieces for the '219' I can pay you through paypal.
Regards,
David
where have I been?
to all: well another dead hard drive (see a few posts back) has kept me from the forum. Still dead, but have been able to borrow my daughter's MacBook, much to her annoyance. She has a Toshiba laptop as well, that she can use... but generally uses her Tosh at work only and her MacBook for her personal stuff (including music).
A leaking basement (from the city's supply line into the house) hasn't helped much either. As soon as I can get my iMac up and stable, I'll be back.
TerribleT/I]: Perhaps I should make up as many arms as I can, then order a few headshells. Paypal works for me. I also need to get some other stuff going. I started a new job at the beginning of December, but haven't worked the last 3 weeks or so as the shop is slow.
I'll post PayPal details in the "vendor's bizarre" section located here.
to all: well another dead hard drive (see a few posts back) has kept me from the forum. Still dead, but have been able to borrow my daughter's MacBook, much to her annoyance. She has a Toshiba laptop as well, that she can use... but generally uses her Tosh at work only and her MacBook for her personal stuff (including music).
A leaking basement (from the city's supply line into the house) hasn't helped much either. As soon as I can get my iMac up and stable, I'll be back.
TerribleT/I]: Perhaps I should make up as many arms as I can, then order a few headshells. Paypal works for me. I also need to get some other stuff going. I started a new job at the beginning of December, but haven't worked the last 3 weeks or so as the shop is slow.
I'll post PayPal details in the "vendor's bizarre" section located here.
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Nanook,
Thanks for your efforts. Don't worry about the 'kits' and take your time. I'm in no hurry. Personal and family affairs come first.
I've finally "fixed" the arm socket on my SME 3009 S2 Improved and I am enjoying spinning vinyl again. I am also trying to learn as much as I can to set this arm up properly on my Thorens 124. The arm I have is not the best that SME has to offer, but that's all I have at the moment. Even though my arm/TT combo is producing some great sounds, I just can't help but believe there is more to be had with my Thorens. So, if the Nanook 219 can offer some improvement in sound quality, I would be very happy. Do you or anyone else out there care to comment on how my SME and the Nanook 219 world compare?
Regards,
David
in the same league as my SME 309 easily...
... different, but in the same league. I find the "219" to have a more "delicate" sound compared to the SME. Not as robust as SME in the bottom end though. Used with a Grado Sig 8 MCZ cartridge (both arms), through a PSIII phono stage. TT is Oracle Alex MkII or homespun Sugden BD1.
The SME 3009 MkII/TD124 is legendary. I'm ( a little) jealous. Hope you have nothing but great experiences with the combination. No one has built the arm yet as I still have the kits here.
... different, but in the same league. I find the "219" to have a more "delicate" sound compared to the SME. Not as robust as SME in the bottom end though. Used with a Grado Sig 8 MCZ cartridge (both arms), through a PSIII phono stage. TT is Oracle Alex MkII or homespun Sugden BD1.
The SME 3009 MkII/TD124 is legendary. I'm ( a little) jealous. Hope you have nothing but great experiences with the combination. No one has built the arm yet as I still have the kits here.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nanook,
Is this the arm you have? If you say the Nanook 219 is comparable to the SME 309 arm, then I am impressed and I can't wait to try it out. Please get your life back in order and let me know where to send my money😀
Regards,
David
that's the one...
TerribleT: Others that I trust have heard it and have agreed. Had I known that I could build an arm that sounded this good, I wouldn't have bought the SME 309 (I paid full retail for it, new). The original "219" arm is quite a bit heavier
Details have been listed in this thread regarding the wiring and other information (Radioshack sourced Kynar, Radioshack sourced mini-Sub D connector kit re-purposed, salvaged RCA male connectors to phono stage).
Any following this thread: I've looked and I do have enough material to build a couple more arms. The only thing I don't have is enough headshells. If any don't need a headshell, I'll be able to use them, else I need to get a few more made. Or any "new testers" could salvage a headshell.
A detail that will change is the tubing. I need to get a diameter that matches commonly found tooling. (the black arms have a 23/64" diameter, and a 0.013" wall thickness. A more suitable diameter might be 3/8"). I've also decided on a very simple, easily adjustable counter-weight that addresses the question of easily adjustable azimuth.
sanchu888:I think I will send along essentially a completed arm to you, as I am short pieces to send you a kit. Have you been able to source a better turntable closer to home? If so I won't scrounge up a table for you, as the shipping from Canada to you would be very expensive (the arm is cheap to ship as an "International Small Packet" via Canada Post). All other shipping companies are all very expensive comparably.
TerribleT: Others that I trust have heard it and have agreed. Had I known that I could build an arm that sounded this good, I wouldn't have bought the SME 309 (I paid full retail for it, new). The original "219" arm is quite a bit heavier
Details have been listed in this thread regarding the wiring and other information (Radioshack sourced Kynar, Radioshack sourced mini-Sub D connector kit re-purposed, salvaged RCA male connectors to phono stage).
Any following this thread: I've looked and I do have enough material to build a couple more arms. The only thing I don't have is enough headshells. If any don't need a headshell, I'll be able to use them, else I need to get a few more made. Or any "new testers" could salvage a headshell.
A detail that will change is the tubing. I need to get a diameter that matches commonly found tooling. (the black arms have a 23/64" diameter, and a 0.013" wall thickness. A more suitable diameter might be 3/8"). I've also decided on a very simple, easily adjustable counter-weight that addresses the question of easily adjustable azimuth.
sanchu888:I think I will send along essentially a completed arm to you, as I am short pieces to send you a kit. Have you been able to source a better turntable closer to home? If so I won't scrounge up a table for you, as the shipping from Canada to you would be very expensive (the arm is cheap to ship as an "International Small Packet" via Canada Post). All other shipping companies are all very expensive comparably.
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Hi Nanook, - Well - - - I don't think that you exactly said that you would send one for sure, I think it was more like I was on the wait list and that there was possibly one left over that could come my way 🙂 . . . . . If you could come up with the other parts - I might be able to make the headshell myself ..... 🙂
Nanook 219 tonearm
Hello Nanook, I've been following your thread for awhile and I am interested in purchasing your tonearm. Please add me to the list and let me know how payment is to be made. I can't find you listed in Vendors Bazaar. Regards, Robert (Gadfly)
Hello Nanook, I've been following your thread for awhile and I am interested in purchasing your tonearm. Please add me to the list and let me know how payment is to be made. I can't find you listed in Vendors Bazaar. Regards, Robert (Gadfly)
Arm length
Hello Nanook and other diy tonearm makers,
Can you define tonearm length and how it is measured? Is a 12" arm measured from the pivot to the headshell arm connection or is it measured from the end of the balance weight to the tip of the stylus? Also when you speak of total arm weight does it include the balance weight or just the tube headshell/hardware bearing? Thanks,
David
Hello Nanook and other diy tonearm makers,
Can you define tonearm length and how it is measured? Is a 12" arm measured from the pivot to the headshell arm connection or is it measured from the end of the balance weight to the tip of the stylus? Also when you speak of total arm weight does it include the balance weight or just the tube headshell/hardware bearing? Thanks,
David
tonearm length
TerribleT: I define the tonearm length as the measurement from the tonearm pivot to 1/2 way along the slots + the measurement from the mounting screw center in the cartridge to the stylus point (horizontal measurement only). Others may call this effective length. It hardly matters though, unless making a rigid arm board, as the base can always be moved if using a simple base such as the one I use).
I'd attach a picture, but I don't want to load this borrowed computer with software that my daughter will not use.
TerribleT: I define the tonearm length as the measurement from the tonearm pivot to 1/2 way along the slots + the measurement from the mounting screw center in the cartridge to the stylus point (horizontal measurement only). Others may call this effective length. It hardly matters though, unless making a rigid arm board, as the base can always be moved if using a simple base such as the one I use).
I'd attach a picture, but I don't want to load this borrowed computer with software that my daughter will not use.
Hi,
Sorry Stew for late reply.I am still using my Technics TT.I have not found any good turntable.I'll put 219 arm on my technics and source for a decent turntable later.
Regards,
Sachin
I have read the post on this tonearm a few times and I am interested in building one of these tonearms. I am able to follow most of the design except for the female bearing. What is used for the female bearing? I know that the tonearm is swiveling on the point of a ball point pin, but I missed the details on the bearing. Any help is appreciated.
Dan
Dan
Dan,
the pivot can be whatever you like and attached however you choose. I started with a brass acorn nut, but it was nasty, and added significantly to the total mass of the arm. (in fact my original arm weighs about 1.5 X's as much as the current one. Currently I install an insert into a wooden carrier. The carrier is then glued into the arm tube which is drilled in the appropriate location.
All parts are available, just email me. I've quoted $50 previously to others for 2 reasons:
Many here have shown continuous interest and are part of the "beta testers" group. This "kit" will become a commercial product. Thus far, none have received their kit, but I should send a few out as money permits.
the pivot can be whatever you like and attached however you choose. I started with a brass acorn nut, but it was nasty, and added significantly to the total mass of the arm. (in fact my original arm weighs about 1.5 X's as much as the current one. Currently I install an insert into a wooden carrier. The carrier is then glued into the arm tube which is drilled in the appropriate location.
All parts are available, just email me. I've quoted $50 previously to others for 2 reasons:
- the headshells are produced for me to a high level of finish. These are similar to the Yamamoto headshells, but hand made in Canada by someone who cares what he is doing
- inserting the female bearing/carrier into the arm tube takes a certain knack, and drilling the arm tubes without destroying them takes a little time (if any try this themselves pleasewear safety glasses or better yet a face shield)
Many here have shown continuous interest and are part of the "beta testers" group. This "kit" will become a commercial product. Thus far, none have received their kit, but I should send a few out as money permits.
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