Scott, looks good.
I am thinking of making an armboard/pedestal as well. I like the set screw type collars though as it allows you to move the arm around quickly and easily. Also wanting to make an armboard to attach to my Oracle so that it is an easy swap.
I'm currently listening to the Oracle/"219"/Grado Sig 8 combo and enjoying it. I don't miss the SME, but will definitely hang onto it as a reference. I have an old Audio Technica 30E (I think) kicking around that needs a stylus. These moving coils have a user replaceable stylus that is still available. Also have a Shure V15 that needs a stylus, but original ones are no longer available. There are some "Swiss" made ones that appear to be well done for a reasonable price. Not the last word in transparency but among the best of its type.
I am thinking of making an armboard/pedestal as well. I like the set screw type collars though as it allows you to move the arm around quickly and easily. Also wanting to make an armboard to attach to my Oracle so that it is an easy swap.
I'm currently listening to the Oracle/"219"/Grado Sig 8 combo and enjoying it. I don't miss the SME, but will definitely hang onto it as a reference. I have an old Audio Technica 30E (I think) kicking around that needs a stylus. These moving coils have a user replaceable stylus that is still available. Also have a Shure V15 that needs a stylus, but original ones are no longer available. There are some "Swiss" made ones that appear to be well done for a reasonable price. Not the last word in transparency but among the best of its type.
Attachments
Nanook, if you want the best for your V15, go to Jico, Japan and search for their SAS styli. They make SAS styli for both V15 series and Shure's M series of cartridges as M75 and M91.
They are really good, and can compete with many MC cartridges today.
Phonograph Stylus : Top
Nanook
the size of the arrow shaft ?
PS
I have the older western digital hd ,the enterprice series h24x7day....😉
WD RE4 2 TB SATA Hard Drives ( WD2003FYYS )
Nanook
the size of the arrow shaft ?
PS
I have the older western digital hd ,the enterprice series h24x7day....😉
WD RE4 2 TB SATA Hard Drives ( WD2003FYYS )
Hi Nanook - I don't know if you are still recruiting beta testers for your tonearm, but I'd be keen to try a 219, vinyl being my main listening source - also poor, and therefore cheap 🙂. I have been following your thread with interest, but sick kids kept me away this last week.
arm parts available....
I've purchased enough arrows for 10 arms. Headshells will be made shortly. Tonight I am expecting to install the female bearings into the cut shafts.
Some will have the "Easton gamegetter" label on them, others won't.
Expecting to cut the shafts to length required so that effective tonearm length will be 12" or approximately 305 mm (actually 304.8 if I measure in inches, else 305mm if measured in mm). In this case I will allow 2-1/2" or 51.4mm from the pivot to the end of the shaft for use with counterweights. Each shaft shall be weighed with bearing installed, and lengths will be noted.
After all the shafts are made, I'll procure the male bearing portion, and start making the headshells. I hope to have all complete no later than the beginning of next week.
Shipping costs will be the responsibility of the end user. Paypal would most likely be the method for shipping payments Just call it a gift for the purposes of PayPal. If you want you guys can toss me a bone for materials or donate to a local food bank.
If I go commercial with these, obviously there will be a surcharge, but it still won't cost that much to buy, depending on the actual time spent on each arm averaged. If different shafts are used, fixed costs can double or triple.
tronkj : thanks for the information and nicoch for the link.
nicoch: 9.37mm, +/- .005mm
I'll post a list of those who have committed to wanting one. After these 10 go, no more will be offered unless charged out.
stew
I've purchased enough arrows for 10 arms. Headshells will be made shortly. Tonight I am expecting to install the female bearings into the cut shafts.
Some will have the "Easton gamegetter" label on them, others won't.
Expecting to cut the shafts to length required so that effective tonearm length will be 12" or approximately 305 mm (actually 304.8 if I measure in inches, else 305mm if measured in mm). In this case I will allow 2-1/2" or 51.4mm from the pivot to the end of the shaft for use with counterweights. Each shaft shall be weighed with bearing installed, and lengths will be noted.
After all the shafts are made, I'll procure the male bearing portion, and start making the headshells. I hope to have all complete no later than the beginning of next week.
Shipping costs will be the responsibility of the end user. Paypal would most likely be the method for shipping payments Just call it a gift for the purposes of PayPal. If you want you guys can toss me a bone for materials or donate to a local food bank.
If I go commercial with these, obviously there will be a surcharge, but it still won't cost that much to buy, depending on the actual time spent on each arm averaged. If different shafts are used, fixed costs can double or triple.
tronkj : thanks for the information and nicoch for the link.
nicoch: 9.37mm, +/- .005mm
I'll post a list of those who have committed to wanting one. After these 10 go, no more will be offered unless charged out.
stew
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a list (so far)
3 lists
those that have received or are in the process of receiving kits from dave or from the Van Isle diyAudio 'fest 2010:
kevinkr
leadbelly
wjlamp
vinylkid58
TerryO
Those interested in arm kits in addition to the above:
SGregory
tmblack
laiphroaig
canzld
sled108
nicoch46
those that have shown some interest:
cactuscowboy?
c2cthomas?
The Space Egg Corp. ?
Psychobiker?
trondkj?
fendersen?
Please verify if you'd like the kits or not. If you want them, I require your shipping address. I will estimate the shipping costs , and then email back. If any cannot PM me, please email me direct at:
stu1@nucleus.com
3 lists
those that have received or are in the process of receiving kits from dave or from the Van Isle diyAudio 'fest 2010:
kevinkr
leadbelly
wjlamp
vinylkid58
TerryO
Those interested in arm kits in addition to the above:
SGregory
tmblack
laiphroaig
canzld
sled108
nicoch46
those that have shown some interest:
cactuscowboy?
c2cthomas?
The Space Egg Corp. ?
Psychobiker?
trondkj?
fendersen?
Please verify if you'd like the kits or not. If you want them, I require your shipping address. I will estimate the shipping costs , and then email back. If any cannot PM me, please email me direct at:
stu1@nucleus.com
+ Bernie
+ planet10 (gotta figure the safe place i stashed mine)
+ fanderson
+ Jessie
+ one more
dave
amended lists...
3 lists:
Those that have received or are in the process of receiving kits from dave or from the Van Isle diyAudio 'fest 2010 (Amended via dave) :
Those interested in arm kits in addition to the above::
those that have shown some interest:
I'll check my email...
I think this represents a fairly diverse group. Once received, any comments could be made in context to your system (information about your existing system could be submitted anytime, comparisons to your existing arm(s) (and for those that have access to test records and quantified results such as resonant frequency, etc)
I have no preconceptions that these arms are any better than typical commercial offerings. Please be quite critical in your comments. If the goal is to improve on the design or make minor changes to effect big aural changes. Also note that the Easton "gamegetter" is one of their least expensive shafts. Lighter, more rigid shafts are available at significantly more cost. One "tweek" I may do is to use only a nylon threaded rod glued into the wooden carrier as the female bearing.
3 lists:
Those that have received or are in the process of receiving kits from dave or from the Van Isle diyAudio 'fest 2010 (Amended via dave) :
- kevinkr
- leadbelly
- wjlamp
- vinylkid58
- TerryO
- Bernie
- planet10 (gotta figure the safe place i stashed mine)
- fanderson
- Jessie
- one more
Those interested in arm kits in addition to the above::
- SGregory
- tmblack
- laiphroaig
- canzld
- sled108
- nicoch46
those that have shown some interest:
- cactuscowboy?
- c2cthomas?
- The Space Egg Corp. ?
- Psychobiker?
- trondkj?
I'll check my email...
I think this represents a fairly diverse group. Once received, any comments could be made in context to your system (information about your existing system could be submitted anytime, comparisons to your existing arm(s) (and for those that have access to test records and quantified results such as resonant frequency, etc)
I have no preconceptions that these arms are any better than typical commercial offerings. Please be quite critical in your comments. If the goal is to improve on the design or make minor changes to effect big aural changes. Also note that the Easton "gamegetter" is one of their least expensive shafts. Lighter, more rigid shafts are available at significantly more cost. One "tweek" I may do is to use only a nylon threaded rod glued into the wooden carrier as the female bearing.
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space
just to look around my table..the 12" tonearm mounting dimensions and alignment template ?
there is a commercial one that have the same mounting ?
http://www.vinylengine.com/tonearm_database.php
just to look around my table..the 12" tonearm mounting dimensions and alignment template ?
there is a commercial one that have the same mounting ?
http://www.vinylengine.com/tonearm_database.php
Look for the STAX UA 70, 12" in vinylengine.com. Data and mounting instructions about this tonearm,were uploaded,recently. If I am not mistaken there is also a protractor,for the arm,though flawed.Use it as a rule of thump and elaborate the finer details with a good protractor. I am using this arm fore some 15 years,and the Nannook,will have a face off with this beast.
B.L
can'i wait for a face-off 🙂
Looking forward to all comments (good and bad)
wish the HD hadn't crashed....
Looking forward to all comments (good and bad)
wish the HD hadn't crashed....
Hi Stew,
cable came to our shores today.Come Sunday,I will wire the arm and hopefully start the auditioning.
B.L.
tmblack, what purpose?
if for the tonearm, wjlamp suggests that transfiaudio on ebay has suitable stuff
if for the tonearm, wjlamp suggests that transfiaudio on ebay has suitable stuff
some tools for turntable setup (for "219" users, and anybody else).
Acoustic "sniffing": My wife needed (or wanted) a new stethoscope for work. I bought my wife an updated Littmann, with the newest design acoustic bell. It has proven to be a significant upgrade to her Littmann Lightweight. Then I was able to keep the Lightweight for myself for audio purposes.
for Scott (in his "Phoenix" thread). It depends on what stethoscope your wife uses. If a newer electronically "assisted" one, then they are very expensive and getting your wife an "improved" one would be more so. Even an inexpensive "student" type works very well for audio purposes.
for measuring rotational speed: I also bought a digital tachometer that has proven to allow me to be much quicker (and it is much easier to use) when adjusting speed. Stick a piece of foil tape (mylar) onto the side of a "dull" platter edge (or cover the platter edge with electrician's tape, except a small gap left exposed). Put a record on and adjust the speed while playing. +/-.05 RPM is displayed. I figure if I can get to within .1 of the 33 1/3 rpm, I'm doing ok. My ears agree.
for measuring tracking weight: Local "head shops" sell digital scales. I bought one that has a max weight capability of 50 grams (+/- .005 grams) for measuring static tracking force. This has proven invaluable as it allow very fine adjustment .
A few more "tools" and I should be set to actually measure something. An inexpensive micrometer is useful. An electromagnetic base and a dial indicator. A couple of good microphones, a few more slabs of granite, a couple of marble. Some levelling feet would be good as well to help create a portable , stable platform to work on.
And a couple of test records. Also a good mono recording to help with adjusting azimuth using more than my ears (although there is a couple of ways to do this with very little effort.
I had designed an audio "transom", although quite poorly named. It allows for the quick and easy location of the tonearm mount location. It also allows for accurate measurement of the offset angle and provides an alignment grid . Basically place over your spindle. Slide the arm outward (not rotationally but dorsally) until the locating pin is above the centre point of the rotational location of any tonearm. Rotate the primary angular grid until it reads to the nearest degree, then use the secondary one to fine tune the grid. Accurate to within +/- .1 degree. Or do the math with the measurements 🙂
Acoustic "sniffing": My wife needed (or wanted) a new stethoscope for work. I bought my wife an updated Littmann, with the newest design acoustic bell. It has proven to be a significant upgrade to her Littmann Lightweight. Then I was able to keep the Lightweight for myself for audio purposes.
for Scott (in his "Phoenix" thread). It depends on what stethoscope your wife uses. If a newer electronically "assisted" one, then they are very expensive and getting your wife an "improved" one would be more so. Even an inexpensive "student" type works very well for audio purposes.
for measuring rotational speed: I also bought a digital tachometer that has proven to allow me to be much quicker (and it is much easier to use) when adjusting speed. Stick a piece of foil tape (mylar) onto the side of a "dull" platter edge (or cover the platter edge with electrician's tape, except a small gap left exposed). Put a record on and adjust the speed while playing. +/-.05 RPM is displayed. I figure if I can get to within .1 of the 33 1/3 rpm, I'm doing ok. My ears agree.
for measuring tracking weight: Local "head shops" sell digital scales. I bought one that has a max weight capability of 50 grams (+/- .005 grams) for measuring static tracking force. This has proven invaluable as it allow very fine adjustment .
A few more "tools" and I should be set to actually measure something. An inexpensive micrometer is useful. An electromagnetic base and a dial indicator. A couple of good microphones, a few more slabs of granite, a couple of marble. Some levelling feet would be good as well to help create a portable , stable platform to work on.
And a couple of test records. Also a good mono recording to help with adjusting azimuth using more than my ears (although there is a couple of ways to do this with very little effort.
I had designed an audio "transom", although quite poorly named. It allows for the quick and easy location of the tonearm mount location. It also allows for accurate measurement of the offset angle and provides an alignment grid . Basically place over your spindle. Slide the arm outward (not rotationally but dorsally) until the locating pin is above the centre point of the rotational location of any tonearm. Rotate the primary angular grid until it reads to the nearest degree, then use the secondary one to fine tune the grid. Accurate to within +/- .1 degree. Or do the math with the measurements 🙂
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