As Bob said, routers in the class of the Bosch pictured ( Porter Cable, Dewalt, Craftsmen, Ryobi, Milwaulkee, et al) are fine for small bits.
But like I mentioned earlier, when spinning a larger bit at high speed, the extra mass of the big machine ( i.e. approx 15lbs vs less than 7 for many of them) is very helpful.
Provided that the workpiece is securely clamped / bolted down, I'd actually prefer to maneuver the router (on which I can get a much better grip) than to hand feed a small shaped workpiece on a router table, even with feather boards.
and yes, I too have all my fingers right down to the chipped and dirty nails
But like I mentioned earlier, when spinning a larger bit at high speed, the extra mass of the big machine ( i.e. approx 15lbs vs less than 7 for many of them) is very helpful.
Provided that the workpiece is securely clamped / bolted down, I'd actually prefer to maneuver the router (on which I can get a much better grip) than to hand feed a small shaped workpiece on a router table, even with feather boards.
and yes, I too have all my fingers right down to the chipped and dirty nails
chuyler1 said:
assuming that you'd be inverting them for use as supra-baffles, how would you go about securely attaching them to the main enclosures and sealing gaps?
^That's what I was wondering too. I was thinking body filler or sawdust and wood glue mix to fill in the bowl section and make it flat on the back.
But regardless, I need a question answered. I'm assuming the following...am I correct?
Frugal horn w/ no supra baffle < FR w/ My current supra baffles < FR w/ More rounded supra baffles
But regardless, I need a question answered. I'm assuming the following...am I correct?
Frugal horn w/ no supra baffle < FR w/ My current supra baffles < FR w/ More rounded supra baffles
You know, guys, there is another way to get shapes like this.
Laminate a bunch of layers of 1/4in disks with progressively smaller diameter, then use Dave's wood rasp (only a bit of work) to just take off the steps. By rasaping until you only have a 1/16" groove left between each layer and sanding the rest of the way, you can get a very even and symetrical result.
Granted, you will have to paint it, as you will not have a pretty woodgrain with this, but here the shape is the main point.
Jess
Laminate a bunch of layers of 1/4in disks with progressively smaller diameter, then use Dave's wood rasp (only a bit of work) to just take off the steps. By rasaping until you only have a 1/16" groove left between each layer and sanding the rest of the way, you can get a very even and symetrical result.
Granted, you will have to paint it, as you will not have a pretty woodgrain with this, but here the shape is the main point.
Jess
italynstylion said:
I would guess not... (in theory) The abrupt constant radius edge on your sB is going to cause a significant and specific ripple in response. No sB will get a broad shallow dip where baffle step is occurring, but ripples will be higher in frequency and much more spread out. As well with the circular sB with abrupt edges, you will have a edge diffraction signature with a "higher Q" and a longer (more noticable) time delay -- ie the box won't as readily dissapear.
dave
Well screw it...I'll make them removable so I can change them if needed in the future if I end up hating it. I'm aiming for perfection on a budget here so I'm not going to buy a bunch of stuff to make a small difference.
A friend of mine has a 1.25" roundover bit that he is willing to let me borrow. Would this be an improvement over what I have done on mine at the moment?
italynstylion said:
Possibly - but with a workpiece of these material dimensions, it's definitely a job for the router table.
The photos suggest that the material is pine, which would be soft enough to profile by hand with rasps and /or RO sander.
In general the bigger the better.
The sawdust giys can verify (or not) that it may be worthwhile to visit the friend and use his big-a$$ router with that monster bit, A champher works almost as well as round over.
dave
The sawdust giys can verify (or not) that it may be worthwhile to visit the friend and use his big-a$$ router with that monster bit, A champher works almost as well as round over.
dave
I might just throw a rough girt on my RO sander and tough it out for like an hour or so. That should get me what i want.
italynstylion said:
If it is pine as it looks, 3 steps from 80G > 100G > 150G should give you pretty good results.
Yeah, it's pine. I used 220 grit to smooth them out last time before I stained and it was soooooooo smooth. I'll just use something really coarse to blast out the general shape I want and then use the 220 again to make it smooth again.
italynstylion said:
It would take at least 3 steps of higher grit counts to get a smooth enough finish for staining - otherwise you're likely to have some highly visible swirl marks from an orbital sander. These will be more pronounced on soft woods like pine, poplar, fir etc than hardwoods like maple, birch, oak, cherry, hickory etc.
I'd go 80 / 120 / 180 / 220
Ok....I didn't want to buy another router bit or a bunch of stuff to get the correct roundover. These are frugal horns but I'm still aiming for perfection. That being said, I spent 5 hours today with my favorite random orbit sander doing the roundovers by hand. I feel like it's a large improvement over what I started with. Here are two pictures of one of them almost done.
Improvement...yes??
Improvement...yes??
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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