Very true Marcus, and this one I actually caught myself. But I figured if I used 14awg, and an iron core, that the shortened length of wire used, would negate a lot of that difference.
Mboxler, as I'm typing....glad I had to hit back once, thank you for that. Yeah looks like a hump right around 700, and certainly an even extension of a few Db beyond that. Hmm... Maybe he wanted that, because the level of sound coming out of the squawker is taken down that few db, and it helps the new balance not be bass heavy?.
I'd like to start trying things. I don't have a sound card/microphone setup, and I can see what you'd mean about only measuring voltages not being a way to success. Are there any mac or iOS programs out there, where I can output the sweep sound to my DAC and just use the mic in the device (I'm only looking for differences not true levels) to make some charts of my own?
-Loren
Mboxler, as I'm typing....glad I had to hit back once, thank you for that. Yeah looks like a hump right around 700, and certainly an even extension of a few Db beyond that. Hmm... Maybe he wanted that, because the level of sound coming out of the squawker is taken down that few db, and it helps the new balance not be bass heavy?.
I'd like to start trying things. I don't have a sound card/microphone setup, and I can see what you'd mean about only measuring voltages not being a way to success. Are there any mac or iOS programs out there, where I can output the sweep sound to my DAC and just use the mic in the device (I'm only looking for differences not true levels) to make some charts of my own?
-Loren
I agree too... On my DIY crossovers, as far as possible, I use laminated or ferrite core inductors for their very low insertion losses (low DCR) :
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Ooh nice layout Tubelectron, I like that. I can't help but try to follow it, and was a little confused by the jumpers. But then I realized, some of the crossovers we're discussing have the polarity of the squawker, and/or the tweeter, reversed. So I was just seeing reverse phasing. I'm figure this is something to do with time alignment, woofer vs. compression drivers set back in horns?
Yesterday I looked through my parts collection, and gathered everything to try the XO Tubelectron first posted in this thread.
Some 1.7mH iron cores to series with the stock 2.5, a few dale resistors I can parallel for 12ohm, and all the film style 250v caps on hand. Wired one speaker up...
I could see how some would like this, especially if the amp was more powerful than my 10-40w tube amps. I wasn't fond of it. Slightly better bass, definitely more even overall, but far less output (detail?) from the horns. Maybe the impedance curve was superior (as shown in your post), but it just made the overall sound so much less sensitive and detailed, to me. So, I took out the 15uf/12ohm to ground bypass across then 2uf feeding the horns, and just left in place the 40uf across the woofer, as well as the increased 4.2mH feeding it (hence 40uf not 39 or 33). Sound was now better. Horn/tweeter back to sounding like stock, with slightly increased bass quality. Still something was a little off. In using that schematic, I had switched the polarity of the squawker (and it showed k-53, mine is a K-55). So I tried it back to stock, positive to ground, just like the tweeter. Finally there it was, an improvement over the original, even if ever so slight. I added bypass caps and went with it, sounds lovely
I'll wait to do some sound measurements before I open the right channel, they're still close enough to play well together. Here's the schematics again, your original that I tried, and the changes I stuck with, for now. I'm doing so much reading about these lately. On the web, and the dope from hope article that Freddi was so kind to share, and just enjoying soaking it up. -Loren
Yesterday I looked through my parts collection, and gathered everything to try the XO Tubelectron first posted in this thread.
Some 1.7mH iron cores to series with the stock 2.5, a few dale resistors I can parallel for 12ohm, and all the film style 250v caps on hand. Wired one speaker up...
I'll wait to do some sound measurements before I open the right channel, they're still close enough to play well together. Here's the schematics again, your original that I tried, and the changes I stuck with, for now. I'm doing so much reading about these lately. On the web, and the dope from hope article that Freddi was so kind to share, and just enjoying soaking it up. -Loren