Ahhh...I think these fit the bill, and they're so much better than the Polks. I was pleasantly surprised finding they excel exactly where I had hoped they would. The bass control, clarity, and of course sensitivity...I'm hearing new things, and things that formerly lived only in my headphones. Amp currently hooked up is an el-84 PP I designed last year. Eico iron, 10w, and it finally sounds "alive". I'm running 2.1 with a 100w powered 10" Episode sub, crossed over right around 45hz. I think the Hereseys need stands, although I see many different heights people use. But otherwise, what are some other items of importance? Checking/replacing caps, fill type/qty.? Any user experience appreciated.
Thanks all🙏
Loren
Your are much better than. the pair i got.
I’d suggest replacing he ⅜” plywood back that acts as a bad passive radiator and really muck up the bass.
You might also check to see if Crites has an XO for them that will flatten the impedance.
The EL84 PP will be happier with the Hersys except for the “ugly” impedance.
My EL84 PP sounds fantastic, doesn’t put out as much power as yours.
I have cabinet drawings if you need them.
dave
I’d suggest replacing he ⅜” plywood back that acts as a bad passive radiator and really muck up the bass.
You might also check to see if Crites has an XO for them that will flatten the impedance.
The EL84 PP will be happier with the Hersys except for the “ugly” impedance.
My EL84 PP sounds fantastic, doesn’t put out as much power as yours.
I have cabinet drawings if you need them.
dave
I don't see the "quote" button, but thank you Dave. By chance I had read about the enclosure from another post of yours last night. I'm not a huge fan of laminates over plywood. I have a hardwoods retailer near me, what if I wrapped the sides, top, and the back with some hard, heavy wood? This would allow me to make each piece 2x the current height, and I could cut a small slope into the sides. Thus raising it, as the pieces cover the current enclosure but still extend 1x height below to the floor. Also then I could sand the corners without exposing plywood. I'd flush to the current baffle, so I'd also get (say using 1" thick stock) 2" extra baffle width and 1" height...?
Edit: and yes I will read up on the xo and impedance changes, thank you. And what enclosure drawing do you speak of? Did you construct new enclosures from scratch?
Loren
Edit: and yes I will read up on the xo and impedance changes, thank you. And what enclosure drawing do you speak of? Did you construct new enclosures from scratch?
Loren
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The rest of the enclosure is solid, could likely still could benefit from bracing. The removable back panel is the biggest issue. Even just replacing with an 18mm plywood back would help considerably
dave
Re Quote: not available on the post just before yours. There i no mint.
You can thou select a specific bit of text and a little quote button will appear if you want to hi-lite a specific part of a post.
dave
dave
Re Quote: not available on the post just before yours. There i no mint.
You can thou select a specific bit of text and a little quote button will appear if you want to hi-lite a specific part of a post.
dave
Makes sense now, thanks Dave. Yeah I thought about the back as well when I was looking earlier, and about it being the especially thin area. As for the latter, I kind of see it as why not. For the extra 40$ in wood, I figure I'll still get some more improvement. The side and top panels will be glued and clamped. The back panel I may set up similarly to stock, only with stock+the new panel thickness.
Still need to study the crossover before I embark upon anything, but thank you much Dave for the suggestions. Observing them earlier when I put some power to them (Scott 340B @35w) the back panel was indeed acting exactly as you said, a thieving passive radiator.
Still need to study the crossover before I embark upon anything, but thank you much Dave for the suggestions. Observing them earlier when I put some power to them (Scott 340B @35w) the back panel was indeed acting exactly as you said, a thieving passive radiator.
AFAIK, Crites doesn't redesign crossovers, they just rebuild them. Search for ALK on the Klipsch forum. I don't know if he's specifically done anything with the Heresy I, but I know he has done some work with Klipsch crossovers.
For retrofit bracing, I like these https://www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-Silver-Metal-Bar-Hanger-Ceiling-Electric-Box-Mounting-Hardware/3127053
For retrofit bracing, I like these https://www.lowes.com/pd/RACO-Silver-Metal-Bar-Hanger-Ceiling-Electric-Box-Mounting-Hardware/3127053
That does not square witht the differences in impedance response for stock vrs Crites XOs
dave
Thanks Thirdcomplex, I'll check those out. And sorry dave, but I didn't understand your last one. I did get to do some reading this morning on the Klipsch forum and Audiokarma, about changing values/wiring in the crossovers to flatten the response. And about taking them closer to V.2, which I guess a lot of people enjoy the sound of more. Seems 1/3 of people said to leave them like they are, 1/3 talked about damping the midrange horn a little bit as well as changing the woofer out for another klipsch, and 1/3 said to only fiddle with the crossover and back panel.
Loren
Loren
(backs are 3/4") - I re-capped mine with Russian paper / foil caps (ESR was "ok" - no changes. I dd not like having the grille on as it seemed to muck with clarity. Decent motor run caps are available very cheap from the "Supply House". I don't know if there are good aftermarket diaphragms for the K77.
Tho out of fashion since constant directivity waveguides became the norm, I really like all of PWK's Heritage exponential mid-horns. I don't like the stupid high price of K55 diaphragms and if DIY would use PRV's 2" $70 midhorn driver and appropriate horn.
You could charge couple a crossover -
2uF capacitor
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Titan-Pro-TOCF2-2-MFD-Oval-Motor-Run-Capacitor-440-370V
Tho out of fashion since constant directivity waveguides became the norm, I really like all of PWK's Heritage exponential mid-horns. I don't like the stupid high price of K55 diaphragms and if DIY would use PRV's 2" $70 midhorn driver and appropriate horn.
You could charge couple a crossover -
2uF capacitor
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Titan-Pro-TOCF2-2-MFD-Oval-Motor-Run-Capacitor-440-370V
I just did some searching to find out what you're talking about and I'm coming up with nothing. Everything I've found regarding Crites crossovers is, they swap caps and lay everything out all nice like on a piece of plywood.
IIRC PWK looked at the rise in impedance when the autoformer is doing large amounts of attenuation as a "plus" as it reduced distortion (Otala - "Tiny "T.I.M.") with PWK's Crown amplifier. See "Dope from Hope"
https://audioroundtable.com/misc/DOPE_from_HOPE.pdf
https://audioroundtable.com/misc/DOPE_from_HOPE.pdf
This is awesome stuff all of you, thanks! I'm going to open one up so I know exactly which drivers are installed. How they're behaving in my small (10x10x7.5ft) listening room is... Bass is excellent, but only above 60hz, or so. No issue with sub. Mids are definitely a little hot, but I feel like having more of a full spectrum bass, like with a 12 or 15" sub, would help (personal taste, I get how they measure, but really I favor at least 12" sub for the tone). The highs seem a tad muddied? Where they play like they can go super high and fast, but I'm still not hearing the whole picture.
I've begun reading more about them, as well as their siblings. And yes I saw that too Freddi, but I certainly hadn't found the letter from Woody Jackson! Thank you, so cool! As for Crites, I see they offer the original x-o, as well as this ALK designed one (thank you Marcus), as well as a rebuild kit for the original. Also of interest, maybe, different tweeters with a higher end and smoother curves. Ok I gotta go open these and take pics. Here's one other thing I found, for your consideration. Seems this could be interesting too (I'm definitely bracing and standing dave 🙂). From the Klipsch community:
I've tried all of the different network mods and networks for the Heresy. Keep it simple; the top is too hot in relationship to the bottom (a common complaint). So, put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with squawker, you can screw it right to the + - spots on barrier strip for the squawker. Then move the tweeter from tap 2 to tap 1, and the squawker from tap 3 to tap 2. This lowers the midrange and treble by 3dB which brings the bass up and makes the speaker sound much more balanced. The 15 ohm resistor means you don't have to change the primary capacitor value. IOW's, it keeps the crossover points the same. I suggest you try it, you probably won't feel the need to do anything else."
Bruce
I've begun reading more about them, as well as their siblings. And yes I saw that too Freddi, but I certainly hadn't found the letter from Woody Jackson! Thank you, so cool! As for Crites, I see they offer the original x-o, as well as this ALK designed one (thank you Marcus), as well as a rebuild kit for the original. Also of interest, maybe, different tweeters with a higher end and smoother curves. Ok I gotta go open these and take pics. Here's one other thing I found, for your consideration. Seems this could be interesting too (I'm definitely bracing and standing dave 🙂). From the Klipsch community:
I've tried all of the different network mods and networks for the Heresy. Keep it simple; the top is too hot in relationship to the bottom (a common complaint). So, put a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with squawker, you can screw it right to the + - spots on barrier strip for the squawker. Then move the tweeter from tap 2 to tap 1, and the squawker from tap 3 to tap 2. This lowers the midrange and treble by 3dB which brings the bass up and makes the speaker sound much more balanced. The 15 ohm resistor means you don't have to change the primary capacitor value. IOW's, it keeps the crossover points the same. I suggest you try it, you probably won't feel the need to do anything else."
Bruce
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Wow these are so beautiful inside. And the back panel is ridiculous! I got the squawker I wanted, good. While I'm in here, might as well measure the caps. Disconnect one leg of each cap where it hits the terminal strip to take it out of circuit. Huh, that's weird. I hear a little static in the drivers, and they measure as resistors? How can that happen when one leg of the cap is completely disconnected from circuit?
-Loren
-Loren
Hi @kb2wyl !
You can experiment my easy modification of the HERESY I crossover below :
I experimented it on my HERESY I HBR, and my three HERESY I owner friends followed me also with success...
-------------------------------------
I also ended to fill the internal volume with Cotton Wool, in order to tame some low-mid and mid box resonances, plus lower a bit the QTC and F3 :
As you can see, all those mods are removable without damage, leaving to return to the original condition of the speaker, just in case... I haven't got back since then ! 😉
T
You can experiment my easy modification of the HERESY I crossover below :
I experimented it on my HERESY I HBR, and my three HERESY I owner friends followed me also with success...
-------------------------------------
I also ended to fill the internal volume with Cotton Wool, in order to tame some low-mid and mid box resonances, plus lower a bit the QTC and F3 :
As you can see, all those mods are removable without damage, leaving to return to the original condition of the speaker, just in case... I haven't got back since then ! 😉
T
Hi Tubelectron. Thank you, nice write up there. What's the difference between the E and E2 crossovers? From what I've been reading, it seemed Hereseys with the K-53 seemed to mention the E2 crossover....like you. I have the K-55. Wouldn't this affect the values somewhat?
And I see that the ALK crossover Marcus posted, and the one you did...there are some serious value differences. I know enough to realize that different inductor sizes would mean different cap sizes, and could result in similar X-O points. But not enough to know which is more favorable and why.
In either case they both look like something I could easily reverse if ever I wanted to, like you said. And I like the cotton wool, plan on that. Also plan on bracing. Darn right Gigantic, I've given up where this thread started and don't want to change the outside, or inside, in any way permanent. Except that bracing.
Loren
And I see that the ALK crossover Marcus posted, and the one you did...there are some serious value differences. I know enough to realize that different inductor sizes would mean different cap sizes, and could result in similar X-O points. But not enough to know which is more favorable and why.
In either case they both look like something I could easily reverse if ever I wanted to, like you said. And I like the cotton wool, plan on that. Also plan on bracing. Darn right Gigantic, I've given up where this thread started and don't want to change the outside, or inside, in any way permanent. Except that bracing.
Loren