Hi...
Posting some pictures of my "WW" baffle dipole sub...
8 ProAudio 12" Woofers...
6 desks met their destiny 🙂
Woofers mounted, a lid will be placed on top.
The Baffle will be painted black and then a nice wooden table top placed on top of everything... I'm going to use it as a living room table.
The Dipole uses a Behringer DCX 2496 pro with a crossover point at 35 Hz, 48 dB/Octave, some delay due to positioning and goes down below 20 Hz...
/Stefan
Posting some pictures of my "WW" baffle dipole sub...
8 ProAudio 12" Woofers...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
6 desks met their destiny 🙂
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Woofers mounted, a lid will be placed on top.
The Baffle will be painted black and then a nice wooden table top placed on top of everything... I'm going to use it as a living room table.
The Dipole uses a Behringer DCX 2496 pro with a crossover point at 35 Hz, 48 dB/Octave, some delay due to positioning and goes down below 20 Hz...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
/Stefan
Done my first dipole subwoofers
Chops,
Thanks for the inspiration! I really enjoy the subwoofer 's enhancement to the overall sound presentation of my now biamp 2 way plus the subs. I am using the active crossing over setting the dials at 60hz and 800hz. The ouptput is so large that I have to turn down the low output and turn up the mid and high output to balance them.
Thanks,
Chris
Chops,
Thanks for the inspiration! I really enjoy the subwoofer 's enhancement to the overall sound presentation of my now biamp 2 way plus the subs. I am using the active crossing over setting the dials at 60hz and 800hz. The ouptput is so large that I have to turn down the low output and turn up the mid and high output to balance them.
Thanks,
Chris
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Hi...
I have made an other test with a Fane Colossus 24 inch woofer...
Unfortunatly it's not big enough 😎 and I get distortion at large excurtions, mostly from the surround...
The sound from this baby was more tight than from the 8*12"... Probably due to the lower QTS (0.48), so the next step will be to replace the low quality 12" drivers in the 8*12 with Peerless SLS-12"...
Anyway, it was worth the try and I will probably change the enclosure to a closed box and try some heavy Eq on it (the 180 litre box is way to small for the driver...)
/Stefan
I have made an other test with a Fane Colossus 24 inch woofer...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Unfortunatly it's not big enough 😎 and I get distortion at large excurtions, mostly from the surround...
The sound from this baby was more tight than from the 8*12"... Probably due to the lower QTS (0.48), so the next step will be to replace the low quality 12" drivers in the 8*12 with Peerless SLS-12"...
Anyway, it was worth the try and I will probably change the enclosure to a closed box and try some heavy Eq on it (the 180 litre box is way to small for the driver...)
/Stefan
I´m waiting on 2 monacor sp-382c
and i will build a "H" frame to begin with. How large should i build it ?
Like chops ? 24"x24"x48" (x2,5= cm)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and i will build a "H" frame to begin with. How large should i build it ?
Like chops ? 24"x24"x48" (x2,5= cm)
wingman said:I´m waiting on 2 monacor sp-382c
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and i will build a "H" frame to begin with. How large should i build it ?
Like chops ? 24"x24"x48" (x2,5= cm)
Correct me if I am wrong but I think Chops are 24"x24"x36"
Mines are 24x24x48
Chris
chris ma said:
Correct me if I am wrong but I think Chops are 24"x24"x36"
Mines are 24x24x48
Chris
Ups ! You are right !
where can i find "dipole.xls" ?
new 12" sub
MONACOR SP300 Art.nr 60-10.0540 pris 725,00
Högtalarelement med parametrar lämpliga för transmission line "TML" , sluten låda eller "free air", mycket jämn frekvensgång.
100W, 92dB, 20-4000Hz, 8 ohm Qts 0,57, Vas 270liter, fs 25Hz, Ytterdiam/baffelhål: 305/275 mm. Vikt: 2,8 kg.
http://www.algonet.se/~minic/html/60.htm
Look under :"12 tum högtalare"
http://www.monacor.dk/shop/produkt_blad.php?varenr=100540
MONACOR SP300 Art.nr 60-10.0540 pris 725,00
Högtalarelement med parametrar lämpliga för transmission line "TML" , sluten låda eller "free air", mycket jämn frekvensgång.
100W, 92dB, 20-4000Hz, 8 ohm Qts 0,57, Vas 270liter, fs 25Hz, Ytterdiam/baffelhål: 305/275 mm. Vikt: 2,8 kg.
http://www.algonet.se/~minic/html/60.htm
Look under :"12 tum högtalare"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.monacor.dk/shop/produkt_blad.php?varenr=100540
new 15" sub
American Pro Sub WSXX15
Qts=1.7245, FS= 25 Hz, Vas=214 L.
http://www.ultimate-sounds.com/americanpro/aps8.htm
http://www.autohifi.dk/varesider/varer.asp?Kategori=27
ligt up your day
tell me what you think
American Pro Sub WSXX15
Qts=1.7245, FS= 25 Hz, Vas=214 L.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
http://www.ultimate-sounds.com/americanpro/aps8.htm
http://www.autohifi.dk/varesider/varer.asp?Kategori=27
ligt up your day

tell me what you think
where can i find "dipole.xls"?
Hi wingman,
dipole.xls is at
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/dipole/design.htm
but you will want to look for xlbaffle.xls too:
http://baseportal.de/cgi-bin/basepo...io/download&cmd=list&range=0,20&cmd=all&Id=15
And if you are looking for still another "best for buck" dipole woofer - how about this one:
http://www.visaton.de/english/artikel/art_645.htm
Rudolf
Hi wingman,
dipole.xls is at
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/dipole/design.htm
but you will want to look for xlbaffle.xls too:
http://baseportal.de/cgi-bin/basepo...io/download&cmd=list&range=0,20&cmd=all&Id=15
And if you are looking for still another "best for buck" dipole woofer - how about this one:
http://www.visaton.de/english/artikel/art_645.htm
Rudolf
Re: where can i find "dipole.xls"?
Thanks !
I am looking for the "best for buck" dipole woofer
http://www.visaton.de/english/artikel/art_645.htm has a nice qts0,78 but fs is 37hz
Rudolf said:Hi wingman,
dipole.xls is at
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/dipole/design.htm
but you will want to look for xlbaffle.xls too:
http://baseportal.de/cgi-bin/basepo...io/download&cmd=list&range=0,20&cmd=all&Id=15
And if you are looking for still another "best for buck" dipole woofer - how about this one:
http://www.visaton.de/english/artikel/art_645.htm
Rudolf
Thanks !
I am looking for the "best for buck" dipole woofer
http://www.visaton.de/english/artikel/art_645.htm has a nice qts0,78 but fs is 37hz

Other good looking candidates are the MAX Pentivent 1030 and 1230 which you can read about here
More specs here.
The 1530 is very good too but quite a bit more expensive.
You can contact Nightfire for a quote (they are very competetive if you want four drivers).
And Nightfire also recommend the Italiavox 12 which is considerably cheaper than the Pentivent 1230. I would guess all these drivers are on a par with, or better than the Monacor/Visaton examples mentioned in the preceding posts. 😉
More specs here.
The 1530 is very good too but quite a bit more expensive.
You can contact Nightfire for a quote (they are very competetive if you want four drivers).
And Nightfire also recommend the Italiavox 12 which is considerably cheaper than the Pentivent 1230. I would guess all these drivers are on a par with, or better than the Monacor/Visaton examples mentioned in the preceding posts. 😉
I have skim-read the whole thread again (have read it through twice previously), looking for which T/S parameters are the most important when looking at drivers for dipole configuration.
I would guess fs, qts and xmax, as these were specified for most drivers discussed.
What values for the parameters used should I be looking for?
Im looking to build a 10"/12" prototype to start with and then possibly a 15"/18" version.
I would guess fs, qts and xmax, as these were specified for most drivers discussed.
What values for the parameters used should I be looking for?
Im looking to build a 10"/12" prototype to start with and then possibly a 15"/18" version.
What values for the parameters used should I be looking for?
fs - low as possible preferably in the 20's.
qts - ideally in the range 0.5-1.
xmax - the more the merrier but 6mm is probably the minimum. Depends also on how the driver is built.
NUUK,Nuuk said:
fs - low as possible preferably in the 20's.
qts - ideally in the range 0.5-1.
xmax - the more the merrier but 6mm is probably the minimum. Depends also on how the driver is built.
I have a pair of Peerless 12" XLS "in stock"
These are, (I think): fs=18; qts=0.21; xmax=buckets.
What could be done to compensate for the low qts in this case??
cheers,
N.
I have a pair of Peerless 12" XLS "in stock"
I'll leave that to one of the 'experts'! But wasn't that one of the drivers mentioned on the Linkwitz site ? It will be worth having a look at that site anyway if you want to go dipole! 😉
propstuff said:
NUUK,
I have a pair of Peerless 12" XLS "in stock"
These are, (I think): fs=18; qts=0.21; xmax=buckets.
What could be done to compensate for the low qts in this case??
cheers,
N.
first of all, i read it all!!!!!!
Now, about the XLS qts being .21. I remember somewhere in this thread a guy saying to "....run them through a series resistor big enough to render total Q=0.6." Sounds like something for you.
PE Buyout 12's?
Just read the whole post (catching breath). Great stuff in there, has me finally thinking of the benefits of OB dipole subs. 🙂
Any ideas on any of these 12"s ??
Fs: 33 Hz
Qts: 0.57
Xmax: 3.5 mm
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-730
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-732
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-734
For the price I think they may work! Trying to figure out a compact way of building a sub-array with these guys. I like the idea of push-pull, and wonder if they might make good dipole candidates (again, for the price). Thinking of using 8 - 12 of them.
Thanks!
Just read the whole post (catching breath). Great stuff in there, has me finally thinking of the benefits of OB dipole subs. 🙂
Any ideas on any of these 12"s ??
Fs: 33 Hz
Qts: 0.57
Xmax: 3.5 mm
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-730
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-732
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=299-734
For the price I think they may work! Trying to figure out a compact way of building a sub-array with these guys. I like the idea of push-pull, and wonder if they might make good dipole candidates (again, for the price). Thinking of using 8 - 12 of them.
Thanks!
Nuuk said:
fs - low as possible preferably in the 20's.
qts - ideally in the range 0.5-1.
xmax - the more the merrier but 6mm is probably the minimum. Depends also on how the driver is built.
Thanks 😀
hmm i just got a weird idea...it may have been tried before
if not, tell me how stupid it sounds just so i dont have waste money experimenting on it 😉
first off, i know how beatiful my artwork is.
ok, its kinda like the W one, but with the side closed, so the area between the two subs is closed. The front one, sub A, is wired normally, and the back one, sub B, is wired in reverse polarity, so that as A goes out, B goes in, trying to perhaps create more air than is there. or maybe i could try the same thing, but with the side still open. or maybe i could put a small port in the closed section. or i could do A in reverse polarity instead of B... well you see where the options could go...but would any of them be worth trying
if not, tell me how stupid it sounds just so i dont have waste money experimenting on it 😉
first off, i know how beatiful my artwork is.
ok, its kinda like the W one, but with the side closed, so the area between the two subs is closed. The front one, sub A, is wired normally, and the back one, sub B, is wired in reverse polarity, so that as A goes out, B goes in, trying to perhaps create more air than is there. or maybe i could try the same thing, but with the side still open. or maybe i could put a small port in the closed section. or i could do A in reverse polarity instead of B... well you see where the options could go...but would any of them be worth trying
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