Member
Joined 2002
Hi guys 🙂
I had the possibility to listen more carefully to My-ref+kooka integrated amp this weekend (very, very busy latelly).
Some history: I was looking for a low cost, good sounding system for my bridal chamber, as my wife was complaining that I was going to bed to late at night (building/modding two other systems 😉 ; maybe you're familiar with this situation).
That's how I was interested in My-ref (who could miss it!) to be paired in the future with Samsung HD841 multiformat player and a 2:3 replica of Tannoy's Autograph with a 8'' fullrange driver (I will soon post photos from a fullscale Autograph that I'm building 😎 ) .
I couldn't be more satisfied with My-ref+kooka amp 🙂 For now it is connected to a cheap DVDP and Paradigm's Monitor 3 speakers (I can't test it with main speakers for lack of long enough speaker cables 🙁 ). Even with these humble partners, the sound is very "lucid"; it delivers a well structured, detailed, round and warm musical portray, reminiscent of tubes but with better quality bass, wich has been commented several times before. Very dinamic and punchy when it is needed. CD's doesn't sound that bad after all 😀
Very musical performer. It is relieving to found such a good amp at such a low price.
Although I believe Mauro made his best to make a very stable amp, not dependent on hi priced parts, I can't help thinking that it deserves to play with different parts, specially caps. I will try to build one with Rubicon's ZL and some Riken resistors and compare.
When do you expect availability for My-ref kits?
Regards.
Mauricio
I had the possibility to listen more carefully to My-ref+kooka integrated amp this weekend (very, very busy latelly).
Some history: I was looking for a low cost, good sounding system for my bridal chamber, as my wife was complaining that I was going to bed to late at night (building/modding two other systems 😉 ; maybe you're familiar with this situation).
That's how I was interested in My-ref (who could miss it!) to be paired in the future with Samsung HD841 multiformat player and a 2:3 replica of Tannoy's Autograph with a 8'' fullrange driver (I will soon post photos from a fullscale Autograph that I'm building 😎 ) .
I couldn't be more satisfied with My-ref+kooka amp 🙂 For now it is connected to a cheap DVDP and Paradigm's Monitor 3 speakers (I can't test it with main speakers for lack of long enough speaker cables 🙁 ). Even with these humble partners, the sound is very "lucid"; it delivers a well structured, detailed, round and warm musical portray, reminiscent of tubes but with better quality bass, wich has been commented several times before. Very dinamic and punchy when it is needed. CD's doesn't sound that bad after all 😀
Very musical performer. It is relieving to found such a good amp at such a low price.
Although I believe Mauro made his best to make a very stable amp, not dependent on hi priced parts, I can't help thinking that it deserves to play with different parts, specially caps. I will try to build one with Rubicon's ZL and some Riken resistors and compare.
When do you expect availability for My-ref kits?
Regards.
Mauricio
maxlorenz asked:
Kits have been available for awhile at Twisted Pear:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/
Kits have been available for awhile at Twisted Pear:
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/
Thanks Ed 🙂
I meant when will they replenish the stock, as ordering page says: RevC Kit (PCB set + parts) $99.00 USD Temporarily out of stock
M.
I meant when will they replenish the stock, as ordering page says: RevC Kit (PCB set + parts) $99.00 USD Temporarily out of stock
M.
maxlorenz said:
I think we have a few left. Email Brian to be sure. I am tweeking the layout just a tad for the new run of PCBs. Nothing major.
We should have a stock of new MyRef Rev-C PCBs soon.
Cheers!
Russ
Im a little intimidated by the long thread so I'll ask my q here. What is the maximum/recommended voltage for mauro's origeonal circuit?
I'd like to build 3 boards and stack them to make a 6-channel amp. Recommendations?
I'd like to build 3 boards and stack them to make a 6-channel amp. Recommendations?
You want around ~33 to ~35V rails.
A 48VCT or dual 24V secondary transformer is perfect. Around 200-300VA per channel or 400-600VA for stereo.
I have seen people use as low as 150VA per channel. And you can go as crazy as you like on size, but any bigger than 400VA or so will not really get you much. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
A 48VCT or dual 24V secondary transformer is perfect. Around 200-300VA per channel or 400-600VA for stereo.
I have seen people use as low as 150VA per channel. And you can go as crazy as you like on size, but any bigger than 400VA or so will not really get you much. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
Thanks for the quick replies and the answers. BTW. Russ it's interesting seeing your design coming on by reading the thread. Unfortunately i've only read the first 30 odd posts.
For simplicity and costs, is it worth all the extra money, compared to a simple board like audiosector or similar, taking into consideration that my best speakers are 6x9 pioneers mounted into pinewood boxes. (to me they sound nice, but I can't compare to better speakers)
I would like to build a good amp, but can't spend money on things not needed. For instance I've been saving for a casing to put my amp in. I'm currently using an old tape-deck casing from sansui... holes and all
For simplicity and costs, is it worth all the extra money, compared to a simple board like audiosector or similar, taking into consideration that my best speakers are 6x9 pioneers mounted into pinewood boxes. (to me they sound nice, but I can't compare to better speakers)
I would like to build a good amp, but can't spend money on things not needed. For instance I've been saving for a casing to put my amp in. I'm currently using an old tape-deck casing from sansui... holes and all
ps I know it sounds better to you guys, but you've obliously have better speakers that will point flaws and shortcomings out quicker.
Going to be brutally honest here in the nicest way I can.
You might not be able to fully appreciate the MyRef with the speakers you have, at least right now , but I would build it anyway.
If you use the PDFs and make your own PCBs(if you can) it will not be very expensive and the parts are not exotic or expensive. It will probably not cost you but a little more then building a standard GC, and you will have a solid ampifier for when your speakers get a chance to catch up. 🙂
The most expensive part of a power amp is not usually the circuit bits, it is the things like trafo, case, connectors, heatsinks. Don't think that using a more basic chipamp will save you much, because it really won't.
I would not settle for an ordinary GC. But that is just me. 😀 Others will certainly disagree. Thats fine, but I have built so many variatins of GCs and none of them compare the the LM3886 as a current pump, which is how this design works.
Cheers!
Russ
You might not be able to fully appreciate the MyRef with the speakers you have, at least right now , but I would build it anyway.
If you use the PDFs and make your own PCBs(if you can) it will not be very expensive and the parts are not exotic or expensive. It will probably not cost you but a little more then building a standard GC, and you will have a solid ampifier for when your speakers get a chance to catch up. 🙂
The most expensive part of a power amp is not usually the circuit bits, it is the things like trafo, case, connectors, heatsinks. Don't think that using a more basic chipamp will save you much, because it really won't.
I would not settle for an ordinary GC. But that is just me. 😀 Others will certainly disagree. Thats fine, but I have built so many variatins of GCs and none of them compare the the LM3886 as a current pump, which is how this design works.
Cheers!
Russ
If your looking for an amp to drive 6x9's I'd just go the LM3886 alone route. A pair of chips and a hand full of parts will get you surprisingly good sound.
This amp is not "that" much more difficult to build but 90% of improvements over the generic chip amp will be lost on such a speaker.
This Rev_C amp is at home on the best spkrs money can buy. It would work great on your 6x9's but most of the things that make it so good would not come out of those speakers.
Keep in mind I am imagining a worst case scenario on the speakers and enclosures.
But in reality for a fraction of the cost and complexity you can build a perfectly suited for the job chip amp.
Then save the money (long, slow, painful process) and build a good set of reference speakers and the Rev_C. Unless you need ridiculous volumes that will be the last system you will need.
This amp is not "that" much more difficult to build but 90% of improvements over the generic chip amp will be lost on such a speaker.
This Rev_C amp is at home on the best spkrs money can buy. It would work great on your 6x9's but most of the things that make it so good would not come out of those speakers.
Keep in mind I am imagining a worst case scenario on the speakers and enclosures.
But in reality for a fraction of the cost and complexity you can build a perfectly suited for the job chip amp.
Then save the money (long, slow, painful process) and build a good set of reference speakers and the Rev_C. Unless you need ridiculous volumes that will be the last system you will need.
Star ground
Excuse me for the stupid question....
Where is the star ground on Rev. C?
I ask because I need +/-34V and 0V so I bring the +/-34 from the big capacitors and I would like to bring the 0V from the star ground... but where it is?
Sorry for the stupid question.
Andrea
Excuse me for the stupid question....
Where is the star ground on Rev. C?
I ask because I need +/-34V and 0V so I bring the +/-34 from the big capacitors and I would like to bring the 0V from the star ground... but where it is?
Sorry for the stupid question.
Andrea
Re: Star ground
Not a bad question. The Rev C monoblocs are completely self contained except the trafo. So the center "star" ground would really be where the center tap of the trafo connects to the PCB at the Power GND point.
Cheers!
Russ
jeppix said:
Not a bad question. The Rev C monoblocs are completely self contained except the trafo. So the center "star" ground would really be where the center tap of the trafo connects to the PCB at the Power GND point.
Cheers!
Russ