Not to underestimate the effect of a damaged coil. One shorted turn can direct the energy from the core, possibly creating a hot spot, also ruining the coils performance and bringing unexpected results. If there is a chance, it is worth replacing.
I think while I have the crossovers out I may as well change the coils as they're not expensive and I they look damaged to me. As for the 'while I'm soldering stuff anyway' attitude, is the any evidence to say speakers this old would benefit from caps being renewed? I know electrolytic caps deteriorate.
What advantage does reversing the polarity of the tweeter serve? Just seems strange to me such simple changes to improve sound wouldn't have been done by MA engineers themselves? I suppose the same could be said for any minor crossover upgrade such as upgrades in quality of components.
What advantage does reversing the polarity of the tweeter serve? Just seems strange to me such simple changes to improve sound wouldn't have been done by MA engineers themselves? I suppose the same could be said for any minor crossover upgrade such as upgrades in quality of components.
So I'm intending on buying the components either tonight or tomorrow depending on when I get a response.
But to conclude, low amplitude response from a working tweeter, possible damage to inductor coil.
I tested the resistance of the resistor and got a value of 2ohms with my multi-meter which suggests despite the burn marks its okay - would you recommend replacing anyway? If so what brand and model would be a good replacement?
What brand/model would be a good place to start for the inductor coil?
As I have no way of measuring the capacitors, I may buy some when I'm buying the coils as I'd rather waste the money just in case rather than have to wait for delivery again to fix them to be honest, so what would be a good brand and buy? I keep hearing about clarity caps but couldnt see one at 6 micro F.
Thanks for all your help guys again! Would be lost without you all.
But to conclude, low amplitude response from a working tweeter, possible damage to inductor coil.
I tested the resistance of the resistor and got a value of 2ohms with my multi-meter which suggests despite the burn marks its okay - would you recommend replacing anyway? If so what brand and model would be a good replacement?
What brand/model would be a good place to start for the inductor coil?
As I have no way of measuring the capacitors, I may buy some when I'm buying the coils as I'd rather waste the money just in case rather than have to wait for delivery again to fix them to be honest, so what would be a good brand and buy? I keep hearing about clarity caps but couldnt see one at 6 micro F.
Thanks for all your help guys again! Would be lost without you all.
For the inductor, Janzen. Large number of different types, in a wide array of values. Select whatever is closest to what you currently have in terms of design & size.
If the resistor is measuring OK, then it's OK. If you must replace them, for the sake of replacing them, Jantzen Superes 10w are relatively inexpensive, or you could save a bit more by using their MOX types. I can't see much point in changing them for identical types if they're OK in the first place, and a shift to a MOX or the Superes is likely to only cost a couple of quid.
As for the caps, 6uF is not a standard value, but 5.6uF is likely to be 'near enough'. As far as brand goes, you choose. Preferably one that fits (not a joke -some by nature of design & construction are physically larger than others, so keep that in mind). Without getting involved in the debate over capacitor audibility, if you really feel you must and have the cash to spend -well, it's a harmless enough hobby so long as it doesn't take over your mind. If any audible difference is to occur in this setting, I suspect it will come from a shift to a different type of construction though; don't waste your time changing a regular MKP for another MKP. If you change to a bifilar type like the Supreme, Jantzen Superior Z, Audyn MKP + or similar, a film and foil, or PIO, you might stand a little more chance of hearing a difference. At a considerable price. 😉
If the resistor is measuring OK, then it's OK. If you must replace them, for the sake of replacing them, Jantzen Superes 10w are relatively inexpensive, or you could save a bit more by using their MOX types. I can't see much point in changing them for identical types if they're OK in the first place, and a shift to a MOX or the Superes is likely to only cost a couple of quid.
As for the caps, 6uF is not a standard value, but 5.6uF is likely to be 'near enough'. As far as brand goes, you choose. Preferably one that fits (not a joke -some by nature of design & construction are physically larger than others, so keep that in mind). Without getting involved in the debate over capacitor audibility, if you really feel you must and have the cash to spend -well, it's a harmless enough hobby so long as it doesn't take over your mind. If any audible difference is to occur in this setting, I suspect it will come from a shift to a different type of construction though; don't waste your time changing a regular MKP for another MKP. If you change to a bifilar type like the Supreme, Jantzen Superior Z, Audyn MKP + or similar, a film and foil, or PIO, you might stand a little more chance of hearing a difference. At a considerable price. 😉
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To be honest, I'm more sceptical than most when it comes to upgrades with only subjective evidence, I've heard too many people claiming things that blind listening tests and often the actual physics have proven to be inaudible differences.
So given that most people clearly seem doubtful that any audible change would be heard I'll just stick with a standard PP cap if I end up changing it. But you're right my main issue is I can't find many 6microF caps.
May sound like a stupid question, but as long as its a 6microF film cap with a polypropylene dielectric I take it the shape doesnt matter? I've found one with a +-5% tolerance which seems fairly standard, but its square, I cant see why it would matter but better to be safe than sorry.
Mike
So given that most people clearly seem doubtful that any audible change would be heard I'll just stick with a standard PP cap if I end up changing it. But you're right my main issue is I can't find many 6microF caps.
May sound like a stupid question, but as long as its a 6microF film cap with a polypropylene dielectric I take it the shape doesnt matter? I've found one with a +-5% tolerance which seems fairly standard, but its square, I cant see why it would matter but better to be safe than sorry.
Mike
2.7+3.3 = 6
In a typical crossover..
Power will burn a resistor. Voltage will zap a capacitor. Current may hurt an inductor.
In a typical crossover..
Power will burn a resistor. Voltage will zap a capacitor. Current may hurt an inductor.
So I can just simply buy two capacitors and wire them up in series?
I understand that, but is my assumption that as long as the value for power/voltage etc. is higher than that of what is on the current component it will be fine?
Cheers, Mike
I understand that, but is my assumption that as long as the value for power/voltage etc. is higher than that of what is on the current component it will be fine?
Cheers, Mike
Parallel, for those two.
Capacitors aren't interested in power. Voltage ratings for resistors are generally too high to be a problem with a crossover. Components for crossovers are usually within a certain expected range for Voltage, power and impedance. Besides, do you know what Voltages your amp is using, what power your resistors will dissipate?
Capacitors aren't interested in power. Voltage ratings for resistors are generally too high to be a problem with a crossover. Components for crossovers are usually within a certain expected range for Voltage, power and impedance. Besides, do you know what Voltages your amp is using, what power your resistors will dissipate?
All I meant was, the resistor in the crossover is 7W for instance, as long its that or higher there's no issue?
Also the capacitor is rated at 250v, as long as it is that or higher again that should be fine?
Also the capacitor is rated at 250v, as long as it is that or higher again that should be fine?
Equal or greater power handling, Equal or Greater voltage tolerance is right:
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Speaker Components > Crossover Components > Capacitors
A 3.9uF will replace a 4uF. A 5.6uF will replace a 6uF. You won't hear the difference.
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Speaker Components > Crossover Components > Inductors
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Speaker Components > Crossover Components > Resistors
Blue Aran are primarily PA people, so they possibly don't stock the smaller resistors.
You might look at Wilmslow Audio or Falcon Acoustics too.
But really, I'm not convinced there is anything wrong with the crossover at all. That enamelled/glued coil looks messy, but not burnt.
A quiet tweeter is more likely to have dried up ferrofluid clogging the voicecoil gap. Blue Aran stock ferrofluid. OK, conceivable you have a dried solder joint.
I would be testing the tweeters out of circuit with a 1.5V penlight battery. Surprisingly easy to hear a quiet tweeter when you compare to a good one.
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Speaker Components > Crossover Components > Capacitors
A 3.9uF will replace a 4uF. A 5.6uF will replace a 6uF. You won't hear the difference.
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Speaker Components > Crossover Components > Inductors
Blue Aran - The UK's no.1 Loudspeaker Component Stockist > Speaker Components > Crossover Components > Resistors
Blue Aran are primarily PA people, so they possibly don't stock the smaller resistors.
You might look at Wilmslow Audio or Falcon Acoustics too.
But really, I'm not convinced there is anything wrong with the crossover at all. That enamelled/glued coil looks messy, but not burnt.
A quiet tweeter is more likely to have dried up ferrofluid clogging the voicecoil gap. Blue Aran stock ferrofluid. OK, conceivable you have a dried solder joint.
I would be testing the tweeters out of circuit with a 1.5V penlight battery. Surprisingly easy to hear a quiet tweeter when you compare to a good one.
That .2mh coil probably has some shorted turns (as the op surmised), most likely due to excessive heat, because once the tweeter blows and goes o/c, that coil than has to dissipate a lot more heat (you can do a rough simulation of component power dissipation in Xsim to see the difference when the tweeter is taken out of circuit)
Arthur.
Arthur.
But if I've tried two brand new tweeters, the whole unit as they didnt sell a separate diaphragm, how could it be the tweeter unit?
If the replacement is still off in level, it can't be the tweeter. 😉 Likely a shot component in the XO. But triple check the wiring, connectors etc. while you're at it. Stranger things have happened.
Truth? Those RS8s are a decent medium-sized, reasonably priced commercial floorstander. I wouldn't spend a packet on components myself. Resistors are cheap, go for regular 10w types if you're concerned, or if you feel like spending a few pence more, MOX, or the Jantzen Superes if you feel like spending a few pence more again. The inductors shouldn't be expensive; again look at the Jantzen range. They'll have a suitable replacement for relatively small cost. Straightforward iron core & air core in the desired value & gauge will do the job.
Amplifier valve kits, HIFI pre-amplifiers, speaker kits, AMP Parts, upgrade components | Hifi Collective
Truth? Those RS8s are a decent medium-sized, reasonably priced commercial floorstander. I wouldn't spend a packet on components myself. Resistors are cheap, go for regular 10w types if you're concerned, or if you feel like spending a few pence more, MOX, or the Jantzen Superes if you feel like spending a few pence more again. The inductors shouldn't be expensive; again look at the Jantzen range. They'll have a suitable replacement for relatively small cost. Straightforward iron core & air core in the desired value & gauge will do the job.
Amplifier valve kits, HIFI pre-amplifiers, speaker kits, AMP Parts, upgrade components | Hifi Collective
I'm not making any predictions where the fault is, but it's a terribly simple tweeter circuit along these lines:
Always hard to find simple tests with simple equipment. The 1.5V battery trick is a goodie. Also swapping components around. But a multimeter is very useful:
This £70 Maplin one measures coil inductance and capacitance and resistance. But even a resistance measurement done right will tell you something if you compare the two speakers.
As it goes that's a Wilmslow Audio 0.2mH aircoil at the top right, which is what you might be needing to buy here. But it could be a dry joint or a bad tweeter too. The resistor and a 250V 6uF look unlikely candidates to blow IMO. Or it could be a plain loose or corroded wiring connection.
Always hard to find simple tests with simple equipment. The 1.5V battery trick is a goodie. Also swapping components around. But a multimeter is very useful:
This £70 Maplin one measures coil inductance and capacitance and resistance. But even a resistance measurement done right will tell you something if you compare the two speakers.
As it goes that's a Wilmslow Audio 0.2mH aircoil at the top right, which is what you might be needing to buy here. But it could be a dry joint or a bad tweeter too. The resistor and a 250V 6uF look unlikely candidates to blow IMO. Or it could be a plain loose or corroded wiring connection.
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