No, it was a product from a semi-custom producer; very different internal configuration to the Little Bighorn, though sharing some of the same issues (I'm familiar with the latter). OT for this thread though, and I have no dimensioned drawings or CNC coding as it's not one of mine.
You have two tuning frequencies. A stock vented box has a single, and the point of maximum driver excursion occurs in the octave above Fb. Assuming an Fb in the 40Hz - 50Hz region, which is not atypical for most current wideband drivers, that puts that point of maximum driver excursion right in the zone where most of the LF energy is concentrated in rock etc. programme material (c. 80Hz - 120Hz). A DCR to a point gets around that by having a second tuning in roughly that region, reducing excursion & thereby theoretically improving the LF dynamic range.
Theoretically. It's not necessarily that simple in practice & whether a DCR has a significant load advantage over, say, a QW variation is open to question. In many cases, probably not, but I quite like them -they're a bit different to the usual run, and they work well if properly implemented. Having the internal panel also gives you some internal structural bracing by default, which is no bad thing.
Theoretically. It's not necessarily that simple in practice & whether a DCR has a significant load advantage over, say, a QW variation is open to question. In many cases, probably not, but I quite like them -they're a bit different to the usual run, and they work well if properly implemented. Having the internal panel also gives you some internal structural bracing by default, which is no bad thing.
Lecture is a positive word in my dictionary [emoji3].Not a lecture I hope.
Thinking about it, how do you model a double chamber, even if just an approximation?
I wonder if this is a good approach for the Faitalpro 3Fe22 for improved bass handling. Maybe one cabinet tuned to 110Hz and the second tuned to 60Hz?
Oon
Scott, I have built some FHmk3s using Alpair 7MSs, and they're phenomenal - thank you.
My next project is making use of some cabinets that my grandfather had made ~50 years ago. They are beautiful, and I'd like help my father use them for his home (the drivers perished many years ago). I started to investigate multi-way designs but I'm stricken by the simplicity of FR drivers and want to stay on that path.
The cabinets are approximately 39L with the volume of the driver subtracted, and are not hugely far in stature from the some of the published cabinet designs for the CHR-120, which I can hopefully source through a dealer here in Australia - he only stocks the CHN-110 and 11MS at present.
What do you think? I'm not chasing perfect fidelity; just a simple, enjoyable, easy to drive speaker that can work with what I have. The 120 would be preferable I think, but if it must be the 110/11MS then thoughts on applicability would be much appreciated too.
Thank you in advance!
Apologies for the topic hijack, but I thought I'd update on this post; I finally received my CHR-120s! Super impressive. Love that they look like a monster version of my gold 7MSs.
This is a budget resto-mod job so my expectations aren't sky high but I'm certainly hoping the drivers can bring the cabinets back to life in a meaningful way.
I'm curious to try the original Pioneer SX-440 amplifier which was purchased at the same time as the cabinets - I've found a restoration kit on eBay which could be a fun parallel project.
Pandemic travel permitting I'll be travelling interstate to my father's place to fit the new baffles and drivers in the next month or two
The grille fabric is still in great condition and will be reused. Port is on the front as they'll be against a wall. Any recommendations for stuffing?
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Depends on your tuning frequency, but generally lag top, back & one sidewall with something like 1in bonded acoustic fibreglass board (OC-703) or SAE F10 felt & check with the old click test. If there's some overhang, you can stretch some grill-cloth over the inside of the vent & repeat until its properly damped.
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Hello there, i would like to build a front speaker based on one or two Alpair 10.3 speakers and matching the look and dimensions of the latest JBL L75ms.
Any advise or recommendation for such build?
1 or 2 speakers?
sealed, bass-reflex or any other internal maze?
i'll drive it in full range mode or just with a low range limit.
Any advise or recommendation for such build?
1 or 2 speakers?
sealed, bass-reflex or any other internal maze?
i'll drive it in full range mode or just with a low range limit.
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