Hi Cirrus18,
I haven't got a copy of the wiring diagram - I'll ask Class-D for one today.
I'll do my best to try the amps 'as supplied' before tweaking - you are absolutely right that this would provide the most meaningful report.
You're right that the input coupling cap protects the amp from DC on the input, but I think the one on the board is ceramic and it can easily be bypassed by connecting the input wire to the far side of C6 rather than the designated input point. My UCD amps have Russian FT-3 fluoroplast caps at the input. Given the lower input impedance of the class-d amp (12Kohm vs. 100Kohm) I won't be able to use the same value of caps, so I'll either use some HUGE 4.7uF Russian teflon caps or a couple of 3.3uF Epcos MKV.
In my experience upgrading the PSU caps is always worthwhile. It's also really easy and really cheap to do, so I'd consider it an obvious tweak for anyone who can assemble an amp. The Rubycon ZLH caps worked very well in my modded Behringer SRC2496, and are readily available from Farnell in the UK - I ordered them at the same time I ordered the chassis connectors etc. The main PSU will be a 330VA 2x41V transformer, 35A 400V rectifier bridge and either 2 or 4 BHC slit foil 10000uF 80V caps per rail (depending on what I can fit in the case!). I'll bypass the diodes in the rectifier with 0.1uF Russian polystyrol caps.
Hopefully I'll get into the build on Saturday
I haven't got a copy of the wiring diagram - I'll ask Class-D for one today.
I'll do my best to try the amps 'as supplied' before tweaking - you are absolutely right that this would provide the most meaningful report.
You're right that the input coupling cap protects the amp from DC on the input, but I think the one on the board is ceramic and it can easily be bypassed by connecting the input wire to the far side of C6 rather than the designated input point. My UCD amps have Russian FT-3 fluoroplast caps at the input. Given the lower input impedance of the class-d amp (12Kohm vs. 100Kohm) I won't be able to use the same value of caps, so I'll either use some HUGE 4.7uF Russian teflon caps or a couple of 3.3uF Epcos MKV.
In my experience upgrading the PSU caps is always worthwhile. It's also really easy and really cheap to do, so I'd consider it an obvious tweak for anyone who can assemble an amp. The Rubycon ZLH caps worked very well in my modded Behringer SRC2496, and are readily available from Farnell in the UK - I ordered them at the same time I ordered the chassis connectors etc. The main PSU will be a 330VA 2x41V transformer, 35A 400V rectifier bridge and either 2 or 4 BHC slit foil 10000uF 80V caps per rail (depending on what I can fit in the case!). I'll bypass the diodes in the rectifier with 0.1uF Russian polystyrol caps.
Hopefully I'll get into the build on Saturday
Wiring Details
Hi James,
I have sent you the pdf document in an e-mail. For anyone else interested in the wiring details, please see...
http://www.proaudio.ltd.uk/Content/M-Series Wiring Details.pdf
Mike.
Hi James,
I have sent you the pdf document in an e-mail. For anyone else interested in the wiring details, please see...
http://www.proaudio.ltd.uk/Content/M-Series Wiring Details.pdf
Mike.
S
spitzer
No instructions no info, this making seem stolen was not it. What worse more bias not adjusted? Telling me now module not even tested. With solder problem known already it bad quality and no control. Worse and worse more time go more worser get.
For input cap being ceramic that can to explainetion immediat your saying more detail and presance weren't it? It call piezo effect, it noise modulate you know? this opinion meaning less when finding you prefering noise. No audio people for right mind lissen with ceramic for sizing need for input copuling because it mean a piezo type.
Thinking cirrus maybe you just want sound to better for saying so look what seeing I have it gooder and cheaper and in mind you think true but it sound more and more you got what pay for. You listen to ceramic for more of 10 minute at time before ears constipate cireously?
You right perandy it lying in measure because it use AES17 class d measuring filter so it only good for read to 7khz maybe and after it all atten for havin no harmonic at all. Maybe nice admin can move these postings to AVB where it belong this no class b support forum and it rude to people hear.
For input cap being ceramic that can to explainetion immediat your saying more detail and presance weren't it? It call piezo effect, it noise modulate you know? this opinion meaning less when finding you prefering noise. No audio people for right mind lissen with ceramic for sizing need for input copuling because it mean a piezo type.
Thinking cirrus maybe you just want sound to better for saying so look what seeing I have it gooder and cheaper and in mind you think true but it sound more and more you got what pay for. You listen to ceramic for more of 10 minute at time before ears constipate cireously?
You right perandy it lying in measure because it use AES17 class d measuring filter so it only good for read to 7khz maybe and after it all atten for havin no harmonic at all. Maybe nice admin can move these postings to AVB where it belong this no class b support forum and it rude to people hear.
sharpi31 said:
Hi sharpi31,
I'm very interested to hear that you have the SRC2496 crossover. I bought six of the nx 200 modules to use in an active three-way speaker system using a cx3400 for a crossover. I finished it this week but was disappointed to hear how much hiss the cx 3400 produced. The unit also had a fault where one mid channel had very low output. So it's gone back for a refund.
I am thinking of getting now the SRC2496 which is digital as you know. How do you find yours? Any hiss? And would you recommend it as an audiophile quality unit? Before any modifications that is.
cirrus18 said:
Are you sure that's the whole setup? It seems that if the crossover distortion were enough to be seen on a scope it would have to be very high (negative feedback should reduce it well below visibility. Or is this a no-feedback design?). Could it have been that the distortion was supposed to be viewed on the residual (applied frequency notched out) from a distortion analyzer?
The SRC2496 is a dac/adc/sample rate converter. I think the unit you need is the DCX2496 - the digital active crossover.
I think all of the Benringer ***2496 range can be modded so that the active output stage is bypassed and replaced with a single transformer per channel. I did this using a pair of Sowter 3603 transformers. I also replaced the PSU caps with Rubycon ZLH and all small electrolytics (except the analog input coupling caps - i don't use the analog ins) with solid polymer caps. All in all an excellent dac
Iain McNeill said:Cirrus: keep on topic - no insulting posts!
You could see they had different IP!
Off topic post deleted
To the moderator.
I am pretty sure this guy and Havoc08 are in fact really classdphile comeback to haunt this forum in yet another disguise. Classdphile has been banned twice already. He is trying to disguise his identity by using what looks like a non-native English speaker doing his best at English. Which is to be applauded if it was true. The way it is written and the words he uses just ring false to me and are very much in the vein of the way that classdphile writes. Just read them and you'll see what I mean.
These posts are insulting, saying that everything is false, all lies, and picking on me personally. He is completely off subject as all he does is criticise and spout off unsubstantiated innuendos such as, (Maybe you local gang can now stop pollutioning this forum with five thumb shill that not belong.-- You guys, paying well this job? Etc etc) which do not add anything to what the forum should be about i.e. DIY audio.
He hasn't bought or heard any of these amplifiers so he can't speak with any authority about them here.
You have said it's not classdphile as he is using a different ISP address. Well, for a devious character like classdphile I can see nothing stopping him using a different ISP supplier, or registering from an Internet cafe or using the guys computer next-door for that matter to disguise his real identity. So I don't see how an ISP number is any thing to go on.
Rather look at the facts, last year Classdphile was banned, a few days later Havoc08 registered for the first time. Then earlier this year Havoc08 was accused of being Classdphile in disguise and surprise surprise Spitzer registered also for the first time and the pair of them started off accusing and belittling genuine forum members. Coincidence, nay I don't think so.
I Would therefore be most obliged if you would vet and remove all their off topic/insulting posts and better still ban them altogether.
cirrus18 said:
Maybe you should have you paranoia checked cirrus
I don't know this classdphile, but unless he lives in Denmark he sure goes out of his way to annoy you... travelling to Denmark and using a Danish ISP just to cover his tracks
Maybe mod should mute you from this thread so the rest of us can have a good discussion about the modules. I'm sure that many of us are awaiting the reviews in expectation to get a more unbiased oppinion.
glt said:
Don't worry glt I won't and I don't.
I have just played all the way through Mahler's 4th Symphony. It's a wonderful piece of music and listening to it reproduced through the NX200's is absolutely glorious. The next best thing to being in the audience.
The thing that annoys me about these guys, who have never heard these modules and know nothing about them from first-hand experience, are perhaps putting off other people from enjoying, at a very inexpensive price, what I am enjoying. So for that I don't wish them well.
If they say who they are is true, then all they have to do to prove it is not to behave like classdphile in the future. No more personal insults and no more unsubstantiated negative innuendo and I might begin to believe them.
Incidentally, we have many people posting on this forum in English which is not their mother tongue. They do extraordinary well, they are a proud of their ability and go to every effort not to make mistakes, especially spelling ones, which are very easy to correct by just running spellchecker.
Contrast this to Spitzers effort and it stands out like a sore thumb because it is all so wrong and full of stupid mistakes.
To me, it reads like a musical hall comedians effort in trying to impersonate a non-English-speaking person. It's obviously FISHY!!!
nx200 5-1 power amp
Well I finally got round to completing my power amp using 5 of the Nx200 modules and i am very pleased with the results.
The sound is very dynamic and clear even at low volumes. you will be amazed at just how good you music becomes and all the detail you have been missing.
When listening to sound track from your films all the effects and detail come to life and it is really something to be very impressed with.
In just a stereo comparison to Hypex udc180' and the nx200 both utilising the same source and speakers I found them to both excellent and you would have to pay absolutely loads of money to get such good sound reproduction from any"off the self solution".
I have noted that there is a difference between the modules and that is in the bass performance and i find it hard to put it in words and that is the NX200's seem to give a more full/ soulful/in room presence bass as i say hard to put in words and i like this subtlety difference very much so i am very pleased with my nx200 power amp.
This is how i put it together
5 x NX200's From Class D www.classd.ltd.uk
running of 1 Connexelectronic power supply 6x10000uF 50V from http://connexelectronic.com
300VA 230/ 30v X2 Toroidal transformer ( this is more than sufficient for normal listening volumes) Supplied by www.airlinktransformers.com
The case Galaxy Maggiorato from www.hifi2000.it
I added some heat sinks from a defunct plasma board or if you got the dough hifi200 do cases with good heat sink sides. ( the modules in my box, 5-1 get only a bit worm and the two in stereo mode wormer but not hot with the small heat sink added along the out side of the case)
You do need to set the quiescent current ? all I did was to put my multi meter in line of the supply( + or - side) to the module, shorted the input (this is important) and set all to 30mAmps( note very sensitive only a fraction of movement needed.
Well I hope this helps any one. All I can say I am a very happy bunny indeed a very worth while project.
well the next project is to up grade my speakers so i can realy get all the benefit of my power amp
Well I finally got round to completing my power amp using 5 of the Nx200 modules and i am very pleased with the results.
The sound is very dynamic and clear even at low volumes. you will be amazed at just how good you music becomes and all the detail you have been missing.
When listening to sound track from your films all the effects and detail come to life and it is really something to be very impressed with.
In just a stereo comparison to Hypex udc180' and the nx200 both utilising the same source and speakers I found them to both excellent and you would have to pay absolutely loads of money to get such good sound reproduction from any"off the self solution".
I have noted that there is a difference between the modules and that is in the bass performance and i find it hard to put it in words and that is the NX200's seem to give a more full/ soulful/in room presence bass as i say hard to put in words and i like this subtlety difference very much so i am very pleased with my nx200 power amp.
This is how i put it together
5 x NX200's From Class D www.classd.ltd.uk
running of 1 Connexelectronic power supply 6x10000uF 50V from http://connexelectronic.com
300VA 230/ 30v X2 Toroidal transformer ( this is more than sufficient for normal listening volumes) Supplied by www.airlinktransformers.com
The case Galaxy Maggiorato from www.hifi2000.it
I added some heat sinks from a defunct plasma board or if you got the dough hifi200 do cases with good heat sink sides. ( the modules in my box, 5-1 get only a bit worm and the two in stereo mode wormer but not hot with the small heat sink added along the out side of the case)
You do need to set the quiescent current ? all I did was to put my multi meter in line of the supply( + or - side) to the module, shorted the input (this is important) and set all to 30mAmps( note very sensitive only a fraction of movement needed.
Well I hope this helps any one. All I can say I am a very happy bunny indeed a very worth while project.
well the next project is to up grade my speakers so i can realy get all the benefit of my power amp
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