Thanks for the clarification.
My issue is that the .50 I built houses both drivers. I'm trying to see what the proper size is if I split the pair for use as separate Left and Right speakers. This build was strictly for experience, and not destined for long-term use.
The other thought was to make Cornu out of them, on a 20x20" scale. Any thoughts as to how well suited these drivers are to that configuration?
Thinking about a couple of 0.4x karlsonators for satellite speakers working together with my 0.53x, using only the 0.53 as stereo and the four of them for TV/movies/games, would you recommend them? Which driver would you use?
Ha! X was faster than me on the keyboard!
If your budget is tight, then the TC9s are nice and balanced.
If you can spend a little more, the Faitals will give you more oomph! That would be good for movies, though I would still add a subwoofer for movies.
If your budget is tight, then the TC9s are nice and balanced.
If you can spend a little more, the Faitals will give you more oomph! That would be good for movies, though I would still add a subwoofer for movies.
There is a deal at Madisound for 4 ohm TG9FD fiberglass cones for $9. They are supposedly only 5W but might make a nice set of near fields 0.40x K's for powering with a small desktop Class D 4-ohm capable amp. The sound of the fiberglass cone is very smooth.
I have had very good results with the faitals so I will go for them, they are not very expensive anyway.
The problem with the subwoofer is that I can not place it anywhere, the best place I have is below a lack ikea table wich is in one of the sides of the sofa... small living room.
The problem with the subwoofer is that I can not place it anywhere, the best place I have is below a lack ikea table wich is in one of the sides of the sofa... small living room.
Have you tried to make a flat subwoofer using a flat driver? Very compact boxes can then be hidden under a sofa etc.
Under the sofa I only have ~5cm... However, I could mount some kind of flat subwoofer in the wall behind the TV, or have some flat sub in the side of the sofa, I will investigate it. Do you know some?
For example a ready made powered 10in sub. You can buy the driver separately - they are very good. I have used the drivers extensively in several subs myself.
Dayton Audio SUB-1000L 10" 100 Watt Low-Profile Powered Subwoofer
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm
Dayton Audio SUB-1000L 10" 100 Watt Low-Profile Powered Subwoofer
Dayton Audio LS10-44 10" Low Profile Subwoofer Dual 4 Ohm
No, those 10in flat Dayton’s are used in a front-loaded folded bass horn topology of my own design.
I don’t think Karlsonator is most efficient for a subwoofer. Compact subs that are really efficient and powerful while compact are slot loaded band pass designs. A pair of economical car audio 12in Alpine SWRs or similar Infinity’s will reach 40Hz and 132dB easy. I have several threads in subwoofer forum describing them.
PP Slot Loaded Sub with Alpine SWR 12D2
I don’t think Karlsonator is most efficient for a subwoofer. Compact subs that are really efficient and powerful while compact are slot loaded band pass designs. A pair of economical car audio 12in Alpine SWRs or similar Infinity’s will reach 40Hz and 132dB easy. I have several threads in subwoofer forum describing them.
PP Slot Loaded Sub with Alpine SWR 12D2
spongeman - re:0.71X - if asking about a cabinet - there is the Karlsonator 6 which should work well enough with Foxtex (I ran a de-whizzered FE164)- I have the old prototype loaded with L.Cao F6 (qts ~0.7). When I first tried it, I didn't realize the stub needed damping material - it did not sound good empty 😱
Karlsonator6 plan
http://i.imgur.com/xp0P8go.png
a Karlsonator6 per GregB's plan tunes to about 60Hz
Karlsonator6 plan
http://i.imgur.com/xp0P8go.png
a Karlsonator6 per GregB's plan tunes to about 60Hz
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Gkh,
I think it looks fine. 5mm off is no big deal as it is quite forgiving. I would rotate driver mount 45 deg to make screw holes away from bottom edge.
Good luck!
I think it looks fine. 5mm off is no big deal as it is quite forgiving. I would rotate driver mount 45 deg to make screw holes away from bottom edge.
Good luck!
Thank you, X! To me, it looked somehow squat, but if you say it's fine, I'll give it a go.
Regarding the screws, I'm afraid I couldn't access the top ones, but we'll see.
Regarding the screws, I'm afraid I couldn't access the top ones, but we'll see.
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I was thinking of a flexible allen wrench with ball key 😉
The plan is to build one prototype first, and then the other 6 (or 7) optimised pieces.
The plan is to build one prototype first, and then the other 6 (or 7) optimised pieces.
Great idea. I poked a small hole in my aperture to allow a screwdriver. I actually have hex cap screws now so can use the Bondhus ball drivers.
Freddi just ran across what appears to be the spittin’ image of a Dayton PA130-8 from MCM for $8ea. This would be very useful in a Karlsonator loaded with four in series parallel. I think it would be about a full size 1.0x Karlsonator with 97dB sensitivity at 8ohms and 2.83v.
http://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-1595/audio-visual-audio-video-loudspeaker/dp/11C1076
http://www.newark.com/mcm-audio-select/55-1595/audio-visual-audio-video-loudspeaker/dp/11C1076
$55.04 buys Eight shipped - there's a coupon in theory to further reduce the price by 15% but could not find a place to enter it in the test of the checkout - perhaps after the payment info is entered (?)
btw - the full size Karlsonator ("Karlsonator12" by GregB) works well with 12lta, and should work with a number of 12 and 10 drivers. Fb on mine measures ~37Hz so keep that in mind.
btw - the full size Karlsonator ("Karlsonator12" by GregB) works well with 12lta, and should work with a number of 12 and 10 drivers. Fb on mine measures ~37Hz so keep that in mind.
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